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What to read from 2014

The Schroon Lake Region is a super interesting place, so there’s tons of great stuff that can be written about it. Sifting through the last year of blog posts, there are some great options worth reading again. Here are my five favorites!

1. The moving village of Tahawus

http://www.adirondackhub.com/story/2014/10/moving-village-tahawus
I wrote this one, and it was definitely one of my favorite pieces to write. I had heard the story of how the village of Tahawus (pronounced tuh-HAWS, not tah-HA-wuss!) was moved 12 miles down the road when I was bartending in Long Lake years ago, and it always fascinated me.

It was really cool to learn more about it. I got to check out photos and video from Tahawus and the move, I talked to some people who lived and worked there and in Newcomb when the move happened, and I got to see parts of Newcomb I had never checked out before. The historical society there is so cool - definitely check it out if you get a chance. Writing this blog post was an overall great experience!
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2. The ride heard around the world - Theodore Roosevelt’s ride to the presidency

http://www.adirondackhub.com/story/2014/10/roosevelts-ride-presidency
There’s so much great history throughout the Adirondacks, but the Teddy Roosevelt story is one of our biggest claims to fame, and it’s so interesting to read about. Vice President Roosevelt loved the Adirondacks and was staying in the now-defunct village of Adirondac, near Newcomb, when he found out that his president, William McKinley, had been shot in Buffalo.

He took off for Buffalo immediately, but he was still traveling through the Adirondacks when McKinley died and he became president. Read more in Spencer’s blog post about it!
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3. 3 hour tour

http://www.adirondackhub.com/story/2014/09/3-hours-boating-on-schroon-lake
Part of the reason that Schroon Lake is such a great place is that the village is situated right on the big, beautiful lake. I love this post Kim A. wrote over the summer about their great day on it.

I was so jealous of them getting out of the office and spending the day on the lake on a beautiful, sunny day. They got to swim, wakeboard, eat delicious food and boat around the lake. But my envy subsided a tad when I heard about how the boat had some troubles and they got stranded in the middle of the lake for an extra hour or two. Too funny!
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4. Schroon Lake - a summer haven for culture

http://www.adirondackhub.com/story/2014/07/schroon-lake-summer-haven-culture
I’ve always been into the arts: I was in band, chorus and every play I could get into throughout elementary and high school, and I majored in creative arts with concentrations in theater and music in college. So Schroon Lake is my kind of town, and this blog post proves it.

I loved reading Sue’s post about all the amazing creative offerings in this unique little village, including the Adirondack Shakespeare Company, the Seagle Music Colony, the Schroon Lake Arts Council’s many activities and the annual Folk Music Fest. It makes me want to spend the whole summer there next year! Who’s with me?
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5. Ski trip to Gore and Schroon

http://www.adirondackhub.com/story/2014/01/ski-trip-gore-schroon
Gore Mountain is a great place to ski and board, so I loved Nicole’s post about her and Kelly’s trip there last January. The next time I make the trip down there, I’ll definitely hit up Schroon Lake afterward and try out all its great apres ski (well, apres board for me) dining and lodging options! They sound great!
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Jones and Hedgehog Mountain--A bushwhack in the Hoffman Notch Wilderness

Jones and Hedgehog Hills---Winter bushwhacking in the Hoffman Notch Wilderness

The Hoffman Notch Wilderness is almost 39,000 acres of prime real estate butting right up to Hoffman Road in Schroon Lake. I made my decision to go and visit just a small portion of the beauty that lies within that green line they call wilderness. A buddy and I met at the exit for Schroon Lake off I-87 and carpooled over to the start of our little excursion into the woods. We parked at the Big Pond parking area and decided to start along a trail and then visit a hidden back-country pond while we were at it.

The trail, yet untouched this winter, only really had a few inches of snow on it, not enough for snowshoes. We chose to leave our winter personal flotation devices in the car knowing we would make even better time without the added weight. The trail just moved by faster and faster, the snow becoming more and more perfect as it rested on the trees. With snow drooping the balsam branches we were surely in a winter wonderland.

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North Pond

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North Pond was the hidden gem I was referring to. As much as I love bushwhacking to the summits of the Adirondacks, I also love the sweeping vistas that a hidden pond can give, especially in the cold of winter with the sun sparking the flakes on a frozen flat field of ice. It wasn’t long until we reached that point where we would become one with the forest. We would leave the trail and see what we could find further out in the depths between the contour lines of a map.

The forest was open and mostly inviting. We aimed for a northern route to reach the southern shore of North Pond. Just over a quarter of a mile the pond would rest at the base of Hedgehog Hill. The openness the pond gave us was amazing. With the shallow slopes of Hedgehog to our right we quickly would turn to start our climb.

Hedgehog Hill

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We wasted no time in making fast work of the lower elevations as we moved through the open hardwood forest before us. We would stop on occasion as we had open views behind us of the pond below us. From time to time we would be welcomed by a random spruce or balsam tree and then once in a while a small patch would be growing in front us, nothing we had any issues avoiding. The grade was never too steep and before too long we stood atop the semi-open summit taking in the surrounding views. But it was time to head toward Jones Hill, which to our belief would be the highpoint of the day. Making another northern heading we were on our way.

Jones Hill

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We stayed on a heading of north to follow the flat ridge and descend slowly off Hedgehog. The ridge soon opened up some great views of the ledges on the south side of Jones Hill; the excitement started to flow. The open hardwoods were still quite easy to navigate and with the massive cliffs in front of us we didn’t even need the help of the GPS. But how would we get up the cliffs? The cliffs line the ridge and the western ridge came down to meet them. While still steep, we managed to obtain the ridge with the helping hands of one another and possibly the help from our micro-spikes.

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The rocks, forming a natural staircase in many sections helped us out, and we were pleased to use them when we could. The views opened up almost immediately as we hiked along the top of the cliffs. The blue skies screaming "take our picture", so we did, and we did so often. It didn’t take long to reach the summit of Jones, with all the gorgeous views taking up our attention. Jones standing 1882 feet in elevation, not a towering peak by any means, but higher than most in the immediate area.

Descending back to North Pond

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We decided to take a short detour on the way out, since we had some extra time and all. We thought we might want to check out what we called Upper North Pond. Upper North Pond really is an unnamed body of water north of North Pond, but its water flows south to the main body of water. Drained into by the Blue Ridge Range we felt it could be a secret hidden attraction, and as we descended the western ridge of Jones Hill we could start to see fractions of it. Once we got to the shore we were happily surprised by its unique beauty. While it didn’t appear to be holding much in the way of water its sleek shape gave it a neat look and the windswept grass along the edges gave an appearance of a winter deep freeze. We worked our way around the eastern shore of the hidden pond and followed the drainage until we were once again along the shore of North Pond. We knew now it wouldn’t be long until we ran into our original tracks in. Even with the gusty wind we felt confident they would still be there.

We followed our track back out and once again upon the Big Pond Trail. On our trip out of town we knew we needed to satisfy our hunger with something closer to real food, rather than half frozen snack bars and ice crusted water. Stewarts would take care of that need – just enough to get us back home and ready for another adventure. Perhaps you want to hit the woods but would rather forego the bushwacking and hike some of the trails in the Schroon Lake Region, we have plenty to choose from. Maybe the snow's getting deep and you want to try out snowshoes; well, our trails are great for that as well.

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A day in the life of a microbrewer

The best part of the brewing process, to Devon Hamilton, is watching the transformation of his product from the raw ingredients of grain and water to the delicious drinkable substance known as beer. There are a number of steps in the transformation process, and it fascinates him.

Devon is the head brewer at Paradox Brewery, a microbrewery in Schroon Lake. It’s named for the nearby Paradox Lake, on which the brewery’s owners live.

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What a typical day is like for Devon depends on whether he’s brewing that day. If he’s not brewing, he does a lot of cleaning, testing, moving beer from one place to another, minor equipment repairs or other varied tasks like that.

On days he is brewing, however, he sets aside the day to focus entirely on the brewing process. He even takes 10 minutes or so the night before and gets all his grain set up so he can come in the next morning and get straight to work. The winter is a slower season, so Devon only brews maybe one or two days a week right now, but in the summer, he could brew five to eight times a week, depending on the volume of beer that’s moving.

The brewing process

When Devon arrives on a brew day, he gets in around 7 a.m. The brew room is a large room that used to be a post office, and at another point in its history was a bake shop. The building was gutted to make room for the brewing equipment, and the new owners added a floor upstairs for a tasting room and office space. A variety of huge, silver tanks are arranged in a ring around the outside of the room; most of them are fermenters, but a few set aside from the rest are used for the early stages of the brewing process.

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Devon starts by mixing the malted barley in a huge metal vat with hot water to activate the malt’s enzymes and convert the starches in it into sugar. That steeping process is called mashing, and it takes about an hour or so, including when he recirculates it to get the bits of grains out.

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Then he moves the liquid — called wort — to another vat, at the same time pumping in hot water to rinse out all the sugar for about an hour to an hour and a half.

Then the wort needs to be boiled. It usually takes about 20 minutes or so to get it to a full boil, and he boils it for anywhere from an hour to three hours. That concentrates the sugar solution, blows off some water, and kills any bacteria from the malt.

It’s during this time that Devon adds hops to the brew. The earlier he adds it, the more bitterness in the beer and the less flavor and aroma; if he adds it later in the boil, he gets the opposite effect.

Then he spins the liquid to make the proteins fall to the bottom for about 10 minutes, lets it rest, then spins it for another 10 minutes. Then he sends it to a heat exchanger that cools it down. That process currently takes about an hour, but Devon plans to get an upgraded heat exchanger in early 2015, so it will soon take only 20 minutes.

Once it’s cooled, it goes into the fermenter with some yeast, which consumes the sugars in it and creates alcohol, carbon dioxide, and most of the flavor you’ll end up tasting in the beer. The beer is fermented for 14 to 30 days, then it’s transferred to kegs and ready to drink!

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Other varieties

That’s the basic process, but it shifts a little depending on the type of beer Devon is brewing. Ales ferment for about 12 to 16 days, while lagers ferment for about 34 days. Some of the hoppier beers require him to add hops twice. There’s a Baltic porter he plans to brew soon that involves fermenting the yeast for a day in a winter lager before transferring it to the porter. That beer will ferment for six to eight weeks, then Devon plans to age it in a bourbon barrel for nine to 18 months.

He usually has a variety of different beers in different stages of the process that he’s juggling, so he has to write everything down to keep track of it all. He also takes a full inventory of everything in the whole brewery every week — what’s in the fermenters, what kegs are in the cooler, how much grain he has — to make sure he’s on top of it.

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Devon brews all kinds of beer, but he likes brewing hoppy beers like IPAs and double IPAs the best. The brewery smells better when he’s working on them, and the recipes are usually a little more involved and interesting with adding hops to the kettles at different times.
“More than anything else, though, I like selling beer, so as long as I’m brewing, I’m happy,” Devon told me.
He got started brewing with a simple extract kit in college right after he turned 21. Before long, he had built out a full brewery in his brother’s basement and was brewing 20-gallon batches with a fully automated system. He graduated college with a degree in history, so it made sense to look for a job in a brewery.
Devon is the only full-time brewer at Paradox, but he has two people who help him on a part-time basis, and his brewing assistant may help more once the busy season comes around again.

Stop in for a taste

The brewery only produces kegs so far, but they have plans to add canning before too long. They sell kegs to more than 100 establishments that go as far north as the Canadian border and as far south as Poughkeepsie.
Or you can stop by the tasting room if you want to try their beers! They always have seven beers on tap, including the delicious Beaver Bite IPA. There’s a handy chalkboard with info about the beers so you can decide what you want.

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You can have a taste or a pint, or you can take home a 32- or 64-ounce growler of your favorite to enjoy at your leisure. They are open Friday-Sunday in the winter, and more often in the summer.

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The tasting room also has a small gift shop area with fun shirts and other products emblazoned with Paradox Brewery logos so you can remember your visit!

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Plan a getaway and visit the Paradox Brewery. Make Schroon Lake your Adirondack Base Camp and discover why it's easy to get to and close to everything!

Nothing Naughty Going On Here. Really!

Guilty, Guilty, Guilty...

I don’t know that I have ever felt quite as guilty as I did when Greg and I walked into the Schroon Lake Bed & Breakfast - sans 5 year old. I mean, we had already enjoyed a fun Tasting at Paradox Brewery, and a fabulous dinner at Sticks & Stones Bistro & Bar - you can check out the details of that part of our adventure in the first installment of our Schroon Lake weekend away blog.

But… there are a few things Oliver absolutely loves, and the fact that I am about to enjoy one of them - a stay away from home - makes me feel fairly sneaky, wicked guilty, and more than a tad bit naughty. I feel like I am about to get caught cheating on a test - if I still took tests. Of course, I am too old for most tests, and I am consoled by the fact that there is no indoor pool (the real reason he likes to go away), and like many Bed & Breakfasts children under 16 are not permitted - we soon understand why.

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A Welcome Light On A Chilly Night

It’s a late-fall evening in the Adirondacks, meaning a brisk 35 degrees or so. The Schroon B&B is a welcome sight - lit up in a soft glow and just beckoning us to come in and stay for the night. Unfortunately, we are poor planners - we have not made reservations and so we show up unannounced; luckily a sign indicates there is, indeed, room at the inn. We knock on the door and are greeted by our potential hosts-to-be, Sharon and Mark. As we are ushered into the large living room, I am immediately enveloped in warmth - not just from the beautifully blazing fire place.

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The decor is from an older day and age, I feel at home - well, maybe not my home - I could never keep my house this well-appointed! Antiques, flower arrangements, knick-knacks… that’s all it takes. With a huge sigh of relief, I am glad Oliver has been left at home - his tornado-esque ways would have already destroyed a keepsake or two, I am sure.

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Sharon assures us there is room available and asks Mark to give us the tour, "he’s the better tour guide." From the entrance door, to our right is the living room - complete with fireplace, sitting area, books, and dozens (possibly hundreds) of movies. Off to the left is a formal dining room including a grand selection of teas, cocoa, and coffee (I’m sold).

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We head upstairs. To our left is a luxurious king suite (reserved), to our right an intimate queen room with a sitting room across the hall. And then, at the end of the hallway, we enter the Pine View. This is, of course, my pick. We enter the suite and to our left a grand bedroom opens up before us, complete with an electric fireplace adding to the romantic ambiance. There is a private bath - I realize most lodging has private bathrooms, but when discussing B&Bs this is a question I always ask - I’ve stayed in some lovely properties in Maine, all with shared baths - not particularly to my liking. To the right is a private sitting room complete with fridge, couch, and television - also notable when discussing B&Bs. I open the closet and spy the luxurious bathrobes. This will be our room for the night. I’ve decided.

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Back downstairs we fill out paperwork, grab our luggage, and find out the specific etiquette for this lovely establishment. Guests are welcome to come and go - a key is provided for the front door, but quiet is encouraged. We are welcome to take any of the DVDs to our room, and while coffee and baked goods are available around 7:30am, a full breakfast will be served after 8:30am. And, this is pretty cool: Sharon actually asks if we like eggs or have any allergies as they try to accommodate their guests needs. For the record, if it’s made for us, we will eat it. What a treat!

Out And About

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Since it’s a Saturday evening and we’re on our own little spontaneous Adirondack vacation, we decide 7pm is too early to call it a night. We head down to Flanagan’s Pub and Grill on Main Street. Now, the last time I was in this Irish Pub was almost 20 years ago. So, wasn’t I surprised when we opened the doors!? I won’t lie, I was expecting a little old-fashioned, hole-in-the-wall, locals spot. Flanagan’s new look (well, new to me) was shocking. Beautiful wood booths, an open - yet intimate - layout, still the feel of a great locals spot. Clean, welcoming, and a great selection behind the bar; I couldn’t wait to pull up a stool and have a draught (or two). But wait! There was a backroom with a pool table - the night just keeps getting better and better. We grab a couple of sticks and play a few games before the day finally catches up with me.

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As we head back to the car we remember there is a fridge in our room. Obviously we should pop into Stewart’s and grab a pint of our favorite ice cream (chocolate peanut butter cup - as if it could be anything else). The thing I love about Stewart’s - no matter the town - is that there are always a few friendly locals enjoying coffee or a snack and looking to strike up a conversation. Tonight, football is the subject at play - and although I have little to contribute, Greg is quickly debating the day’s results. And, I am soon fantasizing about a hot shower, plush bathrobes, and watching a good movie complete with plastic spoons and shared tub of ice-cream.

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Sleep It Off

While I manage the first part of my plan, we are soon curled up in a huge bed dozing off as the flames in the fire flicker at our feet. Tonight, there would be no movie. After thinking about this long day which started with a stint outside in the frigid air watching a High School football play-off game, followed by a scenic Adirondack drive, a bit of education and tasting at Paradox Brewery and a dinner out, I can justify falling asleep by 10pm.

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We wake to the smell of fresh coffee brewing and something delicious baking. While I would love to lounge here all day, I am also looking forward to talking with Sharon and Mark before exploring a bit more of Schroon Lake and heading home. After an hour or so of procrastinating - because we could, we finally motivate and start our day.

Sharon meets us as we enter the dining room and immediately offers us coffee - a woman after my own heart. There are a variety of juices, and a lemon-zest muffin that I could happily eat every day. Bowls of fresh fruit are proffered before Mark pops out from the kitchen in full chef mode. As he places our plates in front of us, I am overwhelmed. THIS is way more than I had imagined. As an avid hotel-traveler, I was expecting a serve-yourself, family-style breakfast; not a made-to-order plate of edible artistry. Mark gives us the rundown of what is being served, and where the local products came from. I could try to describe the meal in detail but you know that old saying about a picture saying a thousand words, so here you go…

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Sharon and Mark are an amazing team. Seamlessly bustling back and forth while simultaneously working, keeping the conversation lively, answering our many questions, and pointing out the many types of birds at the feeders.

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We learn about the history of the B&B, how its clientele varies from couples looking for a romantic evening as they pass through town to groups of fisherman visiting for tournaments. The property acts as a welcoming home-base for family reunions, weddings, group events, and athletes and adventurists. And, after staying here, I can confirm the repeat customers are proof that they are offering a great service to the region.

We discuss town and all it has to offer - Sharon is a wealth of knowledge. We learn about the thriving arts community. Mark is a musician and hearing my background in the arts, he immediately lets us know about the monthly Open Mic Nights that happen right down the street and draw a great deal of local talent. He is especially animated as he tells us about his upcoming DVD Release Party on Saturday, December 27th at Witherbee’s Carriage House. This special project has long been in the making with all proceeds from T-shirt and DVD sales going directly to the Harry Chapin Project and the Wounded Warrior Project. For more information, check out their facebook page - or call Mark at the B& B!

Pack Your Bags

What can I say… at 10:30am we know we need to say goodbye. We have had a great time in Schroon Lake so far, but there are still places to see, mountains to climb, people to meet. We offer Mark our sadly-untouched ice cream which he enthusiastically accepts (did I mention it’s the best flavor, ever?) - it’s the least we could do after such a relaxing night away.

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While we stayed at the Inn for maybe 16 hours, I feel like we snuck away for a week. And, hey, you know what? There’s nothing naughty about taking a little time for yourself, right? And, it should be noted: I didn't even try to sneak out with my robe. Now, eating that third lemon muffin - which was packed by our hosts in a to-go bag for the 5 year-old… well, that might be a bit naughty - but hey, we’ll call it our little secret, ok?

Want to ditch the kids and plan a romantic stay in Schroon Lake? Looking for a taste of the local brews? Hit the trails, then hit the town - small town hospitality is absolutely where it’s at!

Exploring the Pharaoh Lake Wilderness: 5 Family-Friendly Hikes

Exploring the Pharaoh Lake Wilderness

5 Family-Friendly Hikes

The Pharaoh Lake Wilderness is located north of Schroon Lake with Route 74 bordering it to the north, East Shore Road to the west, and a small portion of Route 8 at the south end. The wilderness area is 1,100 acres in area, with around 70 miles of trails, and over three dozen bodies of water – not to mention the miles upon miles of streams, brooks and wetlands. With an area like this, and so much to offer it’s hard to imagine just reducing a blog to five go-to locations. I have to admit it was tough for me to decide, but you don’t have to, it’s all amazing and should be visited. These five I decided would be excellent locations for visitors of all ages and abilities, and would even be good for hiking with a baby carrier backpack if so desired.

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Grizzle Ocean Loop – 5.0 miles, round trip

This is a lollipop loop by design that circles around the body of water, but starts and ends using the same trail. This trail can be located by following Route 74 out of Schroon Lake toward Ticonderoga. After about 13 miles you will come to Putts Pond Road on the right, turn here. Drive this to the end to Putnam Pond State Campground. There will be a small fee to use when the campground is open, but during the off-season it is closed and free to enter. Pass by the booth and take the left up a small hill and into a parking area on the left. Trail is located at the far end of the trailhead parking. From the trailhead you will follow along a nice flat trail that passes by Putnam Pond to your right. There is a short climb before a rather long descent leads to a major intersection: right leads toward Treadway Mountain, and left leads to Grizzle Ocean and beyond. Continue left on Grizzle Ocean trail, and after a short climb you will soon come to the split for the loop. The loop is a fantastic hike that approaches and leaves the shore of this small back-country Pond. Certain areas of the pond are known for their cranberry growth, if you look closely you might be able to locate a small patch. They are edible all year-round, but in the fall after a frost or two they are exceptionally sweet. Once you finish the loop, return using the trail you followed in.

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Treadway Mountain – 7.8 miles round trip

This small peak has some very good reviews - as it should, it’s one of the best in the area with its rocky top and scenic vistas. It’s hard to match. To get to this trailhead follow the directions listed above and follow the Grizzle Ocean Trail to the split mentioned. From the intersection take a right and continue around Putnam Pond for a bit longer to where the trail for Treadway Mountain comes in on the left. From here you will start a moderate climb that will swing you through an attractive forest with mixed vegetation and rocky steps. As you approach the summit, many views will start to appear and the summit ridge is an exceptional location for near endless photography.

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Berrymill Pond – 4.0 miles, round trip

As one of my favorite ponds to visit on a regular basis, I have to recommend this beauty. To get to the trailhead follow the above directions for Grizzle Ocean and Treadway Mountain. But the trailhead is out of the front side of the parking lot. This trail can be a bit wet and muddy at times and especially in the spring, but I guess you can say that about any Adirondack Trail. I hiked this trail one year when the red newts were in full swing. They were babies and covering the trail, basking in the warm sun on the rocks and cooling down by playing in the water around them. Playing I say lightly, they don’t move too fast in most cases. But it was a neat experience and very hard to hike with the fear of stepping on them.

The trail does climb around 350 feet in elevation, nothing too steep, but a consistent up. There is an excellent spot on the peninsula where lunch can be had looking out over the water’s edge. The trail does continue past the pond giving other looks at the water, but eventually you should turn around since the trail would bring you out many, many miles from your car.

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Goose Pond – 3.0 miles, round trip

Goose Pond is a wonderful back-country pond with excellent vistas and a true back-country feel, with just a short hike. To reach the trailhead for Goose Pond follow Route 9, north out of Schroon Lake. Locate Alder Meadow Road on the right and follow here to Crane Pond Road on the left and turn here. Continue to the end where there is a large parking area. Crane Pond Road continues, but is technically closed to vehicular traffic, even though not enforced - it is a wilderness area. Please park at this location and don’t attempt to drive the road. You will have to hike the Crane Pond Road for about 1-mile to the Goose Pond Trail on the right. The trail is located behind a huge white pine. The road is an easy walk and scenic in its own way. Once on the Goose Pond Trail you will be able to enjoy the silence of a wilderness trail. It’s only 0.6 miles back to the Shore of Goose Pond and the route is very easy with little change in elevation.

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Gull Pond – 1.0 mile, round trip

Another one of my favorite ponds in the park, it just has a nice feel of being in the forest - and the rock cliff on the eastern shore looks pretty cool too. To get there follow Route 9, north out of Schroon Lake. Locate Alder Meadow Road on the right. Follow Alder Meadow Road for 3.75 miles to the trailhead on the left. From the trailhead you will have only a half mile hike back to the pond, but it will be an enjoyable half mile. The trail has a slight climb to it as you approach the pond. The shore is lovely and open in many spots making for a perfect location to have a picnic, if the weather cooperates. Looking across the shore you can see the rocky cliff area of Smith and Leland Hill.

As I mentioned these are only five locations within the 1,100 acres that the wilderness compiles. You should also take time to explore Pharaoh Mountain, Rock Pond, Lost Pond, Pharaoh Lake, Crane Pond and so much more. Interested in seeing what else is out there in the Schroon Lake Region, see what you can find at our website.

The Ride Heard Around the World

Theodore Roosevelt was not only one of the few presidents of the United States that many feel were born to do the job, but a true activist for the Adirondacks and wilderness. Roosevelt’s love of wilderness and the Adirondack Park would take an unforeseen turn in 1901, which no one had dreamed of and would put him in the front seat for a wilderness campaign.

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On September 6, 1901, President McKinley was be shot while visiting Buffalo, New York. Roosevelt made an urgent trip to the bedside of the president from a luncheon on Lake Champlain. Within a few days, McKinley made a turn for the better and looked to be in the clear; Roosevelt would continue to be McKinley’s Vice President to the United States. Knowing everything was going to fine and to show good faith to the public, Roosevelt left Buffalo and headed to Tahawus, a mining company town deep in the Adirondack wilds. On the outskirts of Newcomb, Tahawus (originally named Adirondac) was booming with activity in Roosevelt’s time. (Fun fact: Tahawus - the entire town - that was literally moved.)

Roosevelt met up with his wife, Edith, and their children in this rural village. He then made arrangements to be guided up to the top of New York's tallest mountain, Mount Marcy, by Noah LaCasse. On September 12, 1901 they set off on their hike from Upper Tahawus. They walked past Flowed Lands and Lake Colden, and past the Opalescent River and eventually to Lake Tear of the Clouds. They were beneath the mammoth slopes of Marcy, eating lunch, when nature guide Harrison Hall relayed a telegraph message that strongly urged Roosevelt to come back to Buffalo. Roosevelt wasted no time in descending the peak - which he did in presumably three and a half hours - much faster than a large majority of all current day hikers, and under poor conditions of rain and foul weather.

The midnight ride

Returning to Tahawus, Roosevelt decided to wait until day break before he made the 40-mile journey by stagecoach to the North Creek Railroad Station. It wasn’t long before a second telegraph came through. In the pitch black night, Roosevelt was advised to leave immediately to McKinley’s bedside, for he was getting much worse. It would be 10:30 in the evening of September 12th that Roosevelt would step foot onto a one-seated coach, called a buckboard wagon, and start his “midnight ride.” These smaller, lighter wagons would move faster over the wet and slippery carriage roads and would waste no time in him getting to the train. The trip was made at such a rapid rate that there had to be several stops along the way to switch wagons. The trip would wear heavily on the drivers and horses that he would end up changing about every 10-12 miles. The first stop would be at the post office before departing Tahawus and a few hours later at the famous Aiden Lair Lodge near Minerva.

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The Aiden Lair Lodge rests along Route 28N between Newcomb and Minerva, a memorial sits out front of the building. Near the lodge rests a small land mass commemorating his midnight stop, Roosevelt Hill. This small knoll, quite insignificant as you drive by, has no trail or even a view, but is a piece of history no less.

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From here he would make the final push with the proprietor of the lodge, Mike Cronin. Around 4:45 a.m., at the station in North Creek, Secretary William Loeb would relay the news of McKinley’s passing at 2:15 a.m. that morning; Roosevelt had already become president well over an hour prior at that point.

Roosevelt, as the man he was, wasted no time in continuing his journey aboard a locomotive of the Delaware & Hudson Railroad, which took him to Albany. After switching trains in Albany, Roosevelt headed toward Buffalo, arriving at 1:34 p.m. on September 14. At this time, Roosevelt was still in his muddy clothes from the shoulder of Mount Marcy! He freshened up, payed his respects to McKinley and his widow, and at 3:30 p.m. that day, Teddy Roosevelt was officially sworn in as the 26th President of the United States.

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In commemoration of Theodore Roosevelt

TR Mountain, a 3800’ peak near Tabletop Mountain and Indian Falls is also called Theodore Roosevelt Mountain. This formerly unnamed mountain was given a proper name in honor of the President in 1999. Standing as one of the 100-highest mountains in the Adirondacks it towers above many, but sits unexplored by the crowds of the High Peaks. A faint herd-path from the Van Hoevenberg Trail will lead one to this wooded summit. (Please keep in mind, this hike is a bushwhack and requires the use of map and compass to safely complete.)

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More on the beaten path, Route 28N from Long Lake to North Creek has been marked as the Roosevelt-Marcy Trail in commemoration of Roosevelt’s midnight ride to the presidency. The once narrow, dangerous route is now a scenic byway for all to explore and experience in a much safer fashion.

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For more information and historical reading about Theodore Roosevelt, check out titles by Edmund Morris at a local Adirondack store. Interested in doing a historical hike to Mount Marcy or seeing Lake Tear of the Clouds? See what a local guide can do to set that up for you. And, of course, mark your calendars now for the annual Teddy Roosevelt Weekend held in Newcomb each September.

A Walk in the Park during Stick Season

 

This is my favorite time of year, (if you don’t count summer).

Seriously, one might find it odd, but I actually enjoy what some here call “stick season,” that stretch of leafless, snowless time that exists between the brilliant reds and oranges of fall foliage and the exhilarating snow-covered white of winter.

It’s a break of an unpredictable amount of time during which one can hike or trail run without the typical summer hiking traffic, any insects, or those pesky leaves mucking up your view.

We have been the recipients of extended warm weather in the Adirondacks this fall, and though I’m sure it will soon come to an end (there was some accumulated snow just days ago in the mountains), I’ve certainly enjoyed the extra snowless trail time.

One of my favorite regions to hike is in, and around, Schroon Lake. I love the Pharaoh Lake Wilderness, with its varied terrain. I had decided to go to one of the Crane Pond trailheads for a short hike the other day, but before I left my yard, a shot rang out.

The Shot Heard Round My Yard

The shot was from property adjacent to ours, a tract of land that is leased each fall by a hunting club. It is deer hunting season in our region, and it truly isn’t unusual to hear a gunshot -- sometimes it is merely target shooting.

However, it reminded me that I should don my bright, high-visibility colored jacket and hat, just to be safe. Like cyclists and cars share the road in summer, hikers and hunters must share the woods in fall and winter. And I again perused the website to select a more popular area, as hunters would likely steer clear of a higher trafficked hiking trail.

That was when I ran across the listing for the Adirondack Interpretive Center (AIC) in Newcomb. I hadn’t been there in years! The Center, as I remembered, had a network of trails with interpretive signs, and as a bonus, is one of the places in which there is no hunting allowed.

So I decided to head to the AIC for my hike.

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Season Mixing

Where I live on Lake Champlain is at about 100 feet above sea level in elevation, and Newcomb is 1,946, according to the Internet. It was about 50 degrees out when I left the Lake Champlain Region. So, in a bold season-mixing move, I decided to get to Newcomb via my motorcycle, and to bring my microspikes with me in case the trails were at all icy.

Microspikes are a stick season (not to mention winter) hiking must. Temperatures at this time of year can fluctuate and differ dramatically as one goes up in elevation. Having traction for your boots can make an otherwise dangerously slippery icy trail like… well, like a walk in the park.

The ride west along the Blue Ridge Road between North Hudson and Newcomb is one of the most beautiful scenic rides in the region. I admit that the temperatures did decrease as I got closer to Newcomb, but I was sufficiently bundled up in layers (that included my high-visibility jacket) for the trip. When I arrived in Newcomb, I continued through town on 28N, and finally saw the sign for the AIC on the right. I parked alongside two other cars in the parking lot, and as I took off my outer layers, guessed that it was closer to the mid-40s Fahrenheit there.

I headed into the Center building, which is open Tuesday through Saturday, 10 a.m. - 4 p.m. Lucky for me, it was Thursday at about 2 p.m., so I had time to explore. Upon entering the building I was immediately greeted by Kristin, the assistant program manager at the Center.

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The AIC main building’s full name is the Center for Nature Interpretation in the Adirondacks, and the whole AIC is managed by the SUNY College of Environmental Science and Forestry (ESF). Inside the Center, there is a room set up for lectures and meetings; they host a number of learning opportunities for groups, and welcome a number of school groups this time of year.

There are several interpretive displays, and a lobby with views of the forest and bird feeders outside the windows and a chalkboard with the names of the current types of birds one might see. (Right now, common raven, black-capped chickadee, red-breasted nuthatch, downy woodpecker, blue jay, blue-headed vireo and the northern flicker.) I recognized a chickadee in the feeder while I was there. Kristin showed me one big exhibit room that is currently being renovated to include a three-dimensional and several interactive displays on the natural and cultural history of the Adirondack Park. I was particularly drawn to the display with several animal pelts in the lobby, including a friendly-looking bear.

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A Walk in the Adirondack Park

Kristin provided me with trail maps - one for summer and one for winter - adding to my season-mixing theme. She also gave me some additional guides to mammal ecology and botany for use along the trails. She agreed with me that microspikes or other traction devices are helpful once it is cold enough for the trails to become icy. It was cool on this day, but not cold enough to need extra traction.

Armed with my maps and guides, I set out to check out the network of fairly short trail loops. I began with the Sucker Brook Trail, a one-mile loop. Most of the trails are wheelchair accessible, and as such are nice, wide, cleared trails that include some bridges and wooden boardwalks that are wide enough to accommodate wheelchairs, as well as skis and snowshoes once there is snowfall.

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Given the small number of cars in the parking lot, I realized that it wouldn’t be crowded, but the only people that I saw during my walk were in the distance, taking in the view from one of the bridges on the other side of the Sucker Brook trail. I never did catch up with them, so they must have been traveling at least at a snail’s pace.

There were two bridges and a section or two of boardwalks on this loop. I thoroughly enjoyed this easy jaunt through largely untouched forest. There were a number of downed trees that had weathered but not yet decayed, with cool spiraling designs in the remaining logs.

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The Sucker Brook Trail winter map indicated that it is of moderate difficulty, and a “challenging” ski. Some of the hilly terrain would definitely be an advanced trek on skis, for sure, but was quite a nice walk, and would be equally great on snowshoes or microspikes.

I decided to check out the Rich Lake Trail, as the .6 miles at my glacial walking rate would be just the right amount of time before the Center closed. This trail has a couple of decks overlooking the lake, complete with benches. There were also canoe access points for people paddling from other parts of the lake.

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The walk was nice, and quiet, with the exception of some birds (I identified the sound of a chickadee, but couldn’t pinpoint other sounds -- I’m no ornithologist) and a squirrel who was chattering away, obviously quite annoyed that I was interrupting his day.

The AIC trails aren’t for those seeking a 46er peak-bagging experience, but it is a perfect place to take a family or for a leisurely stroll in the woods. The AIC is a new favorite stick season destination for me, but I might return this winter, too, to try my skis out on the loops marked “challenging”!

 

NOTABLE: The AIC offers snowshoes to visitors at no cost! In addition to the trails, the AIC hosts a regular schedule of programs - keep up with them on the events page!

 

-Kim Rielly is the director of communications for the Regional Office of Sustainable Tourism.

A Weekend at Elk Lake, Part 3 of 3 - A Visit to Clear Pond & Grandpa Pete Mountains

 

If you missed the begining of our story read them here: PART 1 | PART 2

Sunrise to new adventure

We had just come down off of Sunrise Mountain, which you might have read about last week. We actually still had a decent little hop in our step and were looking forward to checking out a couple of peaks we had never been up before - Clear Pond Mountain and Grandpa Pete Mountain. The trailhead was a bit further down the road than the one for Sunrise, so we had to step in the car and drive a bit; just enough time for our muscles to start thinking about tightening up.

Once at the trailhead parking, which was only big enough for about three cars (and small ones at that) we crossed the road and started our hike along the Clear Pond Loop; which we would also manage to do by the end of the afternoon. Following the trail in a counter-clockwise direction, for no other reason that we had to decide, the mileage clicked off rather quickly. The footing was very soft under our feet, which was a pleasure to our senses, you know, the ones connected to our toes.

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Clear Pond Mountain here we come

We passed over the small bridge to the outlet where we could clearly see our destinations across the water; we would be there soon enough. Progressing along at a decent clip we soon came to the trail for Clear Pond Mountain. Located under 1-mile away, we knew it might just be a steep climb to reach the summit. The trail was in really nice shape, and only one tree was across the trail, so that didn’t slow us down much. Now a steady climb and just like many Adirondack trails, it went straight up the fall line. Eventually the trail lightened up a bit and reached a shallow col, covered in ferns and moss. The trail, to our surprise, ended at an outstanding view but it was not on the true summit of the mountain. The true summit lied south, roughly 0.25 miles away from the open rock view. Of course with my need to visit the highest point, I suggested we go over there after lunch.

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Corenne opted to remain at the view and take a nap, she was not optimistic about there being a better view over there. “The trail would have gone there if it was a better view,” she persisted. We ate our bag lunches from the lodge and then I broke out the GPS and made a straight heading to the true summit, not caring if the view was better or not, or even if there was one.

I headed back down the trail, only slightly, before entering the bush to the base of a small cliff. I meandered my way up the steep slopes of the cliffs, through entangled hay scented ferns and reached the flat ridge. I progressed higher along the ridge to a small view, located only slightly before the summit. The summit then offered amazing views. Were the views better? Maybe... They were just as good and in the opposite direction. I returned swiftly to a dozing Corenne, only to brag about the unique view – while surprised, I think she enjoyed the 15 or so minutes of shut eye.

We descended swiftly, maybe too swiftly at times, as Corenne made a lasting impression on a muddy slope. Later we would discover that her sunglasses fell off her head on that muddy slope and remained there for the next visitor to enjoy; her third pair in as many months.

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Grandpa Pete. The Mountain.

Now back at the Clear Pond Trail we headed a bit further around the pond, where the footing was a bit tougher as it passed over exposed roots of rather old cedar trees. Eventually we were at the Grandpa Pete Mountain Trailhead. Again just under 1-mile to the summit, we knew our legs would soon become slightly more like Jell-O. The trail was a bit steep in the beginning, about what we figured. Soon the trail moderated and even slightly dropped a bit as it passed by a large wall of rock that towered almost 100-feet from the earth. The trail followed this wall until it made a graduated effort to pass up a super steep slope to the top of the cliffs and the stunning summit views. We rested here for quite some time, tempted to nap myself, we got up and descended back to the Clear Pond Trail.

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We decided it would actually be closer to finish hiking around the pond at this point, and in all honesty, even as tired as we were, we wanted to see the rest of the trail; even if it were longer, I think we still would have done it. Continuing along the trail we contended with more exposed roots of giant cedars that lined the shore, but on occasion we would have soft uninterrupted footing below us. We soon came to Jones Beach, a nice place to swim, had it been slightly warmer than it was. After a couple of precarious bridge crossings we finally could move over an attractive trail lined with mossy edges. We were back to the boat launch area very quickly and at the car shortly thereafter.

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Not ready for weekend's end

We wished the weekend didn’t have to come to an end; another night would have been nice. The drive home ended up being a chore; the sun in our eyes, while warm and beautiful, was like a lullaby in our ears.

Elk Lake Lodge had ended up being like a home away from home, and after a mileage packed weekend we still felt refreshed - only like a mini-vacation can offer. If you are interested in spending some time at the Elk Lake Lodge, give them a shout and see what they have open for rooms, but remember, their season is coming to a close, so you better hurry. Maybe your want a guided trip out of the lodge, they can arrange that as well.

Sunrise Mountain - A weekend at Elk Lake, part 2 of 3

If you missed part 1 read it here.

Our Story Continues, Part 2:

Rise and shine; the breakfast bell just went off, offering us up some gluten free French toast, bacon, fresh fruit, and most importantly – coffee. Luckily Elk Lake Lodge had a bag lunch waiting for us because day two was to be a full day as we planned to climb Sunrise, Grandpa Pete, and Clear Pond Mountains. After breakfast we took a few minutes to pack up our belongings, giving ourselves a bit of time to let our larger than expected breakfast reach our hollow leg.

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Sunrise Mountain here we come!

Then we were off and hitting the trail to Sunrise Mountain, another of the Adirondack 100-highest peaks located on the property. We started by following the East Shore Trail from near the lodge. This trail was yet another delight under our feet. It wasn’t too long before we crossed the Dix Trail and started up the Sunrise Trail. We passed by a couple other small intersections along the way; one in particular was Cadillac Drive and the Clear Pond Trail. From this major intersection we were truly on the Sunrise Trail, with no other option than to go up. The trail follows an old abandoned woods road, which is a pleasure to walk on, so soft and colorful, we enjoyed every minute of it. Once the trail tightened a bit into more of a foot trail, the tread also became narrow, as it was lined with green moss on either side. The terrain began a gentle climb as it inched ever closer to the summit. We soon reached Little Sally Brook on our left; the waters flowed with a soothing sound only we could hear.

The trail steepened a bit more, as some famous Adirondack mud began to appear in front of us and beneath us. We rock hopped what we could, wallowing in the rest. It’s kind of like jumping in the lake, you know it’s going to be cold but once you’re in it isn’t too bad. With mud, you know it’s going to be messy, but once you’re in, who cares?

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Viewing areas complete with wildlife

Soon we found ourselves at the first viewing area. This steeply banked rock surface afforded us outstanding views of the Elk Lake Region. A bit slippery from the night’s rain, we carefully made our way to the trail in the trees. The terrain steepened more and at one point got very steep, as we continued to climb toward the top of the false summit. Just prior to the false summit we stood atop the second viewing area - almost twin to the first but just slightly higher. Just as we were to crest the false summit Corenne noticed something dead in the trail. We looked down and it wasn’t dead at all, it was a baby bunny, warming up in the morning sun. Not moving, we managed to snap a few pictures of the killer fur ball before it did decide to hop off under a tree root.

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A short descent would bring us to a high col, just below the summit of Sunrise. The climb was steady, steep in a few spots, but overall very moderate. The top had a nice rocky lip awaiting us with some outstanding views. Below us we had Elk Lake. To our left we had Clear Pond, Boreas Mountain, and the Hoffman Mountain Wilderness. To our right we could look up the long spine of the Dix Range, with Macomb right in front. Behind us we had trees, lovely trees mind you.

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Arrival at the Summit

A 15-minute summit stop was all we could do; we were chilled to the bone. The wind was blasting us, our shirts were wet, and the combination of the two was very uncomfortable. Putting on our packs seemed like a block of ice against our wet shirts. It was a bit slippery on the steep slopes, and we managed to survive passing by the bunny for a second time. We passed over the 1st view and quickly found ourselves back onto moderate ground, except now there were fresh moose tracks. They weren’t there on the way in, and they were heading in the same direction as us. The odds that it passed us while we were taking pictures of the rabbit were slim, but we must have walked pretty close by it on the way up.

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We never did see the moose, we did follow the tracks until they must have passed into the forest; they were just no longer there. We opted for a bit of change in scenery so we followed Cadillac Drive back to the Elk Lake Road where we would proceed back to the car, which wasn’t all that far away.

Our trip continues...

Our plan was to now head over and climb Clear Pond Mountain and Grandpa Pete Mountain while looping around Clear Pond. But you will have to come back next week to read about that part of our trip. In the meantime take a gander at what else Schroon Lake has to offer for hiking.

Read part 3 of our Elk Lake adventure.

Adirondack Inspired Art: Winslow Homer

A place like no other

The Adirondacks has been a muse to many over the years - inspiring art, music, health, exploration. Winslow Homer, one of the foremost painters in 19th-century America and a preeminent figure in American art, is one such visitor to the Adirondacks. His fascination spanned 40 years, and over twenty-one trips, resulting in over a hundred peices of art. It's been said that no other place held Homer’s attention as an artist for so long a period.

About the Artist

Born in 1836, Winslow Homer is regarded by many as one of the greatest American painters of the 19th century. He was born and raised in the Cambridge area of Boston, MA. The first work he did in the field of art was as a print maker, in Boston, as well as in New York, where he eventually made his home in 1859. (source: winslowhomer.org)

Largely self-taught, Homer began his career working as a commercial illustrator. He subsequently took up oil painting and produced major studio works characterized by the weight and density he exploited from the medium. He also worked extensively in watercolor, creating a fluid and prolific oeuvre, primarily chronicling his working vacations. (source: wikipedia.org)

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Social and Scenery = Success

Research Winslow Homer and you will read much of his inspiration came during trips to the North Woods Club, where his fishing vacations and time in the great outdoors allowed him freedom to experiment with watercolor, oils, drawing and prints.

I read some of author David Tatham’s information stating that Winslow’s reasons for returning so often to the Adirondacks were as much social as they were professional. And that for Winslow the “warmly congenial social routing coupled with a visually stimulating environment brought forth sustained periods of high quality work.”

“From his Adirondack sojourns came a handful of finely designed magazine illustrations, at least fourteen oil paintings, and about a hundred watercolors, including many of great brilliance.” - David Tatham wrote in Adirondack Life Magazine. David Tatham has a book out “Winslow Homer: Masterworks from the Adirondacks,” which includes thirteen of the artist's greatest works in watercolor and oil, representing a broad chronological overview of Homer's interest in the New York wilderness, from the early 1870s to 1902.

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Homer’s art can be found

  • Metropolitan Museum of Art
  • Boston Museum of Fine Arts
  • Sterling and Francine Clark Art Institute
  • Philadelphia Museum of Art
  • The Brooklyn Museum
  • Canajoharie Library
Among others, and locally in the Minerva Historical Society Museum.
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Masterworks from the Adirondacks

Some of his works from these trips include:

  • Adirondack Guide
  • Campfire, Adirondacks
  • Netting the Fish
  • North Woods Club, Adirondacks
  • The End of the Day, Adirondacks
  • The Lone Boat, North Woods Club
  • The Rapids, Hudson River, Adirondacks

Discover why the Adirondacks inspire you

Winslow Homer came for the fishing, scenery and social engagement - but what inspires you? The Schroon Lake Region, making up the southern tip of the Adirondack Park was where he spent most of his time. This area is easy to get to and close to everything the Adirondacks has to offer. Whether hiking, fishing, boating, skiing, sightseeing, R & R, attractions, art and theatre, and more, there is so much to explore. Start planning your vacation now and come see why Winslow Homer, Albert Einstein, US Presidents, socialites and celebrities, have been making this a vacation destination for decades.

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