Here's the thing — as anyone that follows my blogs knows, I travel a lot. And yet, there's always one stop on the Northway that, no matter the season, no matter the time of day, I feel compelled to visit. Traveling from the Albany area and heading north it's Exit 27 (it's 28 if you're heading south).

The backstory

I have personal ties to Schroon Lake. My father was born in the area and until I left for college all of our vacations - winter, spring, summer, and fall - were spent on Hoffman Mountain.

In the summer we spent our days on shores of the beach or at what was then a little-known secret swimming hole on the edge of the Schroon River. In the fall and spring we hiked Mt. Severance, in the winter we bundled up and went sledding.

I won't lie - there were times as a teen I begged to go someplace else. Why not head south to the ocean or west to the Grand Canyon. Wouldn't Disney World be more of an adventure? But 9 out of 10 times I would find myself at my family's cabin in the woods.

My dad loved the piece and quiet of nature, the lack of crowds, and the pleasant folk that always greeted him with a smile. In my younger years I may not have always understood the appeal, now navigating the hectic day-to-day life of an adult I totally get it.

Set the scene

As we head north during a short lull in the most recent snowstorm I am happy to flip on my turn signal and coast down my favorite exit. I have my 8-year-old son in tow. No school for him means an adventure day with me — at least that's how I sell it (sounds better than, "I'm dragging you along to work.").

We have been driving for 3 hours, and the storm is making the ride slow going. We both need to stretch our legs and breathe in some fresh air. Plus, I'm in dire need of the hot coffee I know is brewed and ready to replenish my empty travel mug.

It's a cold mid-March winter day, although not frigid by any means; cool enough to need warm outer layers, but warm enough to be happily outdoors without shivering.

Oliver looks up from his Pokemon collection, "Is this Schroon Lake? Yes!! I knew it. I knew we'd stop here. Can we go to the beach?" Of course we can. One day he'll realize that stopping at the beach is as much a treat for me as it is for him. Until then, I'll let him think it's a treat for when he's behaving exceptionally well!

It's hard to see the lake and the beach - but we know it's there!

We don't have much time. The weather is starting to pick up again, and we still have the long drive through the High Peaks section of the Adirondacks to conquer before nightfall. But we need a quick refresher. And gas. And coffee. (See how good I am with making up reasons to stop!?)

We make a quick stop at the Stewart's and take an extra moment to cross the street and admire the park.

They say a picture speaks volumes. "They" are probably right. Looking back over these few quick shots that Oliver and I took on our 20-minute detour through town, they make my soul happy, they make me realize it's good to slow down and enjoy the scenery. They make me understand why my father chose Schroon Lake as his final resting place. What a peaceful, friendly town!

Goodbye for now, Schroon! We'll see you on our next trip around the Adirondacks!

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Why not take a trip off the beaten path - and stay a bit longer than we did? There are tasty local eateries and cozy bed and breakfasts just waiting to welcome you to the friendly Schroon Lake Region!

 

Who knew that unique Japanese-influenced architecture, a National Historic Landmark and an Adirondack mystery are rolled into one Great Camp five miles back from the nearest road in the town of Newcomb? The only way to access Camp Santanoni is on foot, by bike, cross country skiing in the winter or riding a horse drawn wagon. I’ve biked in before and skied partway, but this time I opted to let the horses do the work while I enjoyed a ride in the covered wagon.

Newcombe Farm, owned by Larry and Pam Newcombe, is in its second season of transporting people into the Great Camp on a daily basis, weather permitting. They ask that folks call ahead for a reservation (518-639-5534 or 518-480-1743) and they are able to accommodate anyone. They even have a wheelchair lift equipped wagon but they do need prior notice if it needs to be used. They charge $25 per person for the 10 mile round trip ride, but anyone over 62 or physically unable to make the trip on their own are free. According to Larry, they are able to provide this through a grant from the State of New York to insure compliance with the Americans With Disabilities Act.

I had family visiting from out of the area, including my snowbird parents and my Long Island-based sister and her three kids. I thought spending a day at Santanoni would be an interesting trip for everyone. I was not disappointed. It was a real work day for the horses as the wagon was full with 12 riders, my nieces sharing the bench seat up front with Larry, and two more adults, two children and a dog riding in the trailer behind the wagon. The trailer also carried coolers, a tackle box and two canoes with paddles.

On Our Way!

Our journey began just after 10 a.m. from the Gatehouse complex of the camp. It’s a good idea to browse through the Gatehouse for a quick overview of the historical camp before starting your trip. There you’ll learn the Camp was originally built for the Pruyn family of Albany in the late 1800s. Robert Pruyn was a wealthy banker who wanted a “gentleman’s farm” in the country. His wife, Anna, wanted a lakeside rustic retreat. The resulting Great Camp Santanoni was their compromise. We didn’t have to read all this at the Gatehouse on our trip though, because we were fortunate enough to have Emma, an intern at Santanoni, on the wagon with us. She gave us a tour of the farm complex and around the Main Camp when we reached it.

The farm complex, a mile from the parking lot, was our first stop. In keeping with Robert’s dream of a “gentleman’s farm” everything the family needed for the self-sustaining camp was grown or raised here. In fact, the farm sometimes had such a productive growing season the Pruyns would send the fruits of their labors down to their home in Albany via an 11-hour wagon ride. The food reached Albany much more quickly after the automobile came into their lives. Emma pointed out the complex’s remaining buildings, including a creamery, the farm manager’s house, a smokehouse (in the woods - you have to look for that one) and other assorted service buildings, as well as the foundation of the barn which burned in 2004.

We explored on our own for a short while before climbing back into the wagon. The road through the property was a little bumpy, but very scenic and noticeably increasing in elevation as we neared our final destination. The gradual ascent is much more pronounced when my legs are pumping the bike pedals and not resting in a horse drawn carriage!

Just minutes before reaching the Main Lodge, we slowed down at a bridge with water on both sides. The left side is Newcomb Lake, the right is Duck Hole. There are eight designated campsites around the Main Camp complex and the first few are on the Newcomb Lake side of the road. If you want to camp in this remote location for a few days, maybe bring in a canoe or some kayaks along with your gear, you can arrange with Larry to haul everything in for you and come back whenever you want to be picked up.

The Main Lodge

We pulled up to the impressive log buildings right around noon. Larry pointed out what we needed to know the most – the direction of the outhouse – and we were left to walk around for the next two hours. The Great Camp is located on the shore of Newcomb Lake. Robert Pruyn had spent several years of his youth in Japan and was influenced by the culture. He hired an architect who would incorporate Japanese influences in the design of the main lodge, notably in the “great roof” which is one continuous roof over all the separate buildings. From the air, the design is intended to resemble the mythological Phoenix in flight. The main lodge also faces west, believed to be a sign of enlightenment.

Each building within the main lodge had an intended purpose – from the bachelor and bachelorette quarters for visiting guests, to the rooms for the Pruyn family members, to the large center building which housed the great room and dining room. A massive stone fireplace is the centerpiece of this building, which features birch wallpaper, multi-paned windows facing the lake, and doors adorned with medium sized twigs. The continuous roof covers a deck walkway leading to the kitchen, which was fairly modern for the 1900s, and would be the “tail” of the aerial bird’s eye view.

We left our cooler on one of the picnic tables on the deck facing the water and set off to discover the property. The first building we visited, off to the south of the Great Camp, was the boathouse. There are several boats, paddles and life jackets available for use. I suspect the aluminum canoes and modern day kayaks were not part of the original fleet. It was pretty windy the day we were there and the water looked choppy so we opted not to venture out onto the lake. We did take advantage of the cool day to follow a trail around the north side of the lake, past the artist’s studio that was built for the Pruyn’s son, to a four stall bathhouse set on a very small beach. The rest of the primitive campsites are along this stretch of the lake as well. A loop around the entire lake is 4.2 miles.

We returned from exploring in time to enjoy our picnic lunch and listen to Emma’s presentation about the history of this fascinating place. All of the logs used to build the camp were harvested from trees on site. The Pruyn family preferred smaller, more intimate groups of people but that’s not to say they didn’t entertain. They were a prominent family who hosted the likes of Theodore Roosevelt, James Fenimore Cooper and other notable people from history.

 

A Boy Disappears

In the mid-1950s, heirs of the Pruyns sold the Great Camp to the Melvin brothers from Syracuse. The brothers and their families enjoyed their Adirondack retreat until 1971 when one of their grandchildren, Douglas Legg, disappeared without a trace from around the Main Lodge. Accounts of the last time he was seen vary. His uncle told one story the day of the disappearance and changed it days later. Douglas’ brother gave another version when their mother finally allowed investigators to question the child. No remains of Douglas were ever found after a massive manhunt and the truth of his disappearance remains a mystery.

After Douglas Legg vanished, his family wanted nothing more to do with Santanoni. A year later, the State acquired the property. For almost 20 years the Great Camp sat while the State decided what to do with it. Since it’s in the State Forest Preserve, would the “Forever Wild” clause require the buildings be taken down? Thankfully, a group of interested parties proposed to the State that the Great Camp be preserved as a historic area and the idea was adopted. Santanoni is also a National Historic Landmark.

Like the mythological Phoenix that rose from the ashes, Santanoni has not only remained intact, it has been given a new lease on life over the last two decades. Through a cooperative effort by the Town of Newcomb, DEC and Adirondack Architectural Heritage, there has been funding for a variety of renovation projects. A local master carpenter works on many projects around the Main Lodge, and each summer architectural students contribute their talents toward restoration of different parts of the camp. Over the last decade, I’ve personally watched as the boathouse was restored and almost all of the individual panes in the Main Lodge’s many buildings have been lovingly re-glazed. Informational kiosks have also been added throughout the property. The transformation has been wonderful to see. The complex may be shaped like a bird, but it really is more like a jewel.

Our return trip was shorter than the ride in because we didn’t stop at the farm complex. Although we only traveled five miles back to our cars, it felt more like we journeyed through a century.

Ready to visit? Plan a stay in the Schroon Lake Region and put this Great Camp on your must-visit list!

Setting up Camp

My friend and I were doing some exploring east of Long Lake, having made quick stops in places like the canoe access for Fishing Brook (between Long Lake and Newcomb), and finding Red Crossbills along the way – our first of several for the trip. We decided to set up camp in Vanderwhacker Wild Forest off Moose Pond Way, the road which takes hikers to the trailhead for Vanderwhacker Mountain.

Paddling Cheney Pond

Our tents up and with an evening of light still left in the day, we bumped back down the rocky and rough road and drove a short distance to check out Cheney Pond, a place where I’ve birded but never paddled in the past. We snacked on the way as part of our dinner – it is all too easy when adventuring to push meals off until late!

Cheney is a picturesque little pond located off of Blue Ridge Road before the road descends to the Northway, and we quickly unloaded in the soft blue light of late day to maximize our time on it. A few Cedar Waxwings fed from the tops of the trees along the edge of the water, and a pair of Common Loons sat out in the middle of the pond, their shapes mirrored by the glassy surface. We began our loop of the pond’s jagged outline, chasing a Belted Kingfisher ahead of us, which chattered as it flew low over the water from perch to perch.

The local beaver was less easily intimidated by our quiet paddling and it slid alongside us, slapping its tail in disapproval of our audacity to trespass on its lake. Beavers are always good for such shenanigans, and I chuckled while Wren jerked her head up in alarm with each slap – it’s a consistent part of our evening paddles.

Portions of the pond’s boundary are characterized by boggy and marshy habitat, and we poked around to see what else we could find, chasing up a Great Blue Heron and pausing to admire the tufts of cotton grass which accented the green vegetation. In this way we eventually wound our way to the backside of the pond where a small, snaking stream connects it with the Boreas River, as the river runs along the border of the Hoffman Notch Wilderness Area. From there, paddlers can travel a couple more miles along Lester Flow.

We didn’t have enough daylight for such a venture, and the tiny waterway is blocked by a muddy beaver dam, so we chose not to carry past the dam the short distance to put-in on the Boreas. But the brushy habitat of alders along the waterway held a group of chattering birds – White-throated, Song, and Swamp sparrows, Common Yellowthroats, and a Least Flycatcher or two – who, like the beaver, thought we didn’t belong there at that point in the evening — chipping loudly at our approach. We turned around to paddle the waterway back to Cheney, and then continued to loop the rest of the pond’s outline, spotting a few bats scooping up insects over our heads.

A Beautiful Night and Morning in Camp

Once back and loaded at the car, we drove the darkening road back to our camp, where we enjoyed a late dinner and a star-filled sky before heading to bed. A brief rain storm ushered in the following morning and I had to wake long enough to zip up the door to my tent to keep the spray off me and Wren. But the rain was short-lived, and as dawn approached I heard the nocturnal flight calls of a few migrants overhead as I debated if I wanted to rouse my tired body.

Eventually I was up, and we puttered bleary-eyed around camp listening to still more flight calls – these were the daytime calls of Red Crossbills overhead. Thanks to an excellent crop of cones on our conifers across the Adirondacks, crossbills have been in many places in the region this summer. I heard them a few more times during the morning and we later heard White-winged Crossbills as well.

Looking to spot the crossbills, I watched clouds racing each other across the sky, revealing patches of blue as the front pushed through the area. Even with the wind in the trees we could hear Black-capped Chickadees, Golden-crowned Kinglets, and Red-breasted Nuthatches calling from the forest surrounding our camp, and I "spished" to see if there were vireos or warblers mixed in with them. A short time later, a Black-backed Woodpecker called from the nearby conifers. The constant distraction meant that breakfast and packing up wet tents may have taken longer than it would have otherwise, but we were outside to explore and there is little to complain about being able to explore directly in camp. But in the end we were fed and packed, and we headed out to continue our exploration of the beautiful fall-like day.

Late summer and fall offer great opportunities for outdoor adventure. Plan your trip today by checking out our lodging and dining pages.

 

Editor's note: When thinking about football and traditions, I often think back to this fun afternoon and the start of our own little post-game tradition. While I know there are several great places in the Schroon Lake Region to catch the big game on the big screen, this is how we often choose to spend our gameday. It's fun to note how much these two businesses have grown since we first printed this blog in 2014!

Taste the Trail...

So, it's a random brisk Saturday afternoon and Greg and I find ourselves passing through Schroon Lake after cheering on our local high school football team. We are surprisingly child-free and have no solid plan, when we see the sign for Paradox Brewery: "Follow The Trail" - well, it seems like pulling in is the right thing to do. So we do. I mean, we can follow directions sometimes, when we try. It’s a good call - I can tell you that before we go any further.

We park in the little lot, and proceed around the side of the building and up a staircase to the Tasting Room which is located in the back of the second story. As we enter the intimate space we are cheerfully greeted by Jenn, the wife of one of the three partners that own the brewery. She asks if we are interested in doing a tasting, and it seems like yes, yes, we are indeed. There is only one other person in the tasting room when we arrive, he had been granted a day of liberation from his wife and kids and had chosen to drive north for an hour or so and visit the Brewery. Luckily, folks at tastings seem to be a generally pretty friendly crowd, and I'm able to ask a slew of questions without getting the "shh, I'm trying to relax here" look. Which is good - because it wasn’t quite a case of 20 questions, but I like to talk.

A few interesting facts: Paradox Brewery has been in this little location off of exit 27 N for about a year and a half now. They have a tent outside in the summer, but in the fall and winter, the tastings move inside. They have just signed with Dutchess Beer Distributors, and while right now their brews can be found in approximately 80 restaurants on the Northway route spanning from Saratoga to Schroon, they will be expanding south of Albany within the year.

There were 7 beers on tap ranging from their most popular core brew aptly named the Schroon Ale, to a lager, red ale, IPA, IIPA, porter, ESB and stout. Something for every taste. We had just finished our tasting and were debating which to order a pint of - I chose the Red Ale, Greg went with the Schroon Ale, when the wave hit. And, by wave, I mean within 15 minutes approximately 20 people filed in. This is the norm so we were told.

We talked to a group of 4 visitors from Hoosic Falls - they were celebrating as they traveled south after watching their high school football team win the quarter finals which they were playing against Saranac Lake. (We had quite a good debate with them as we, too, had been at the game - rooting for the opposing team!) There was a woman visiting from the Keys, she’d heard that she, "had to visit Paradox if she went near Schroon Lake."

There were two jovial couples that were up for the weekend staying at a local camp. They, like us, saw the sign and just had to stop and check it out. And, of course, there was a peppering of locals bringing in their growlers for refills - an awesome thing about local breweries: get the recyclable growler, and you can feel environmentally responsible every time you fill it up!

On the way out, we stopped downstairs to talk to Jenn’s husband, Vaughn, and get a quick tour and history of the brewery. It’s a pretty impressive setup — especially when you know that not that long ago this building was the old South Schroon Lake Post Office.

All in all - we say, it’s definitely worth the stop. The Tasting Room is usually open Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. Check out their website for exact hours and to find out what they’re brewing this week! Oh, and this just in - right as we left the Brewery, they found out they won their first award: Silver Medal for their Paradox Pumpkin Lager at the Great International Beer and Cider Competition in Providence,RI. Ah, to say we tried them when...

Fire, Pharoah & Fries...

So, while beer was a great starting point for our evening, we needed something a bit more substantial after a day spent outdoors in the 30 degree temps. Time to find a place for dinner. On the way to the Brewery we had passed a couple of guys starting a fire next to a sign for Sticks & Stones Wood Fired Bistro & Bar. As we headed back toward the Village, the fire was roaring and the parking lot packed - always a good sign; go where the locals go!

We entered the restaurant and I have to admit I was thoroughly impressed with the friendly staff and cozy decor. We took a quick look around and while there were tables available in the quieter dining room, we chose to sit in a booth near the bar. There was a serious mix of customers. The bar was lined with young couples laughing, 40-50 year old men watching the football game, and a group of ladies celebrating a birthday. Seated on one side of us was a family with 2 small children, and on the other was an older couple that reminded me of my grandparents as they shared their cheesecake. And, while I talked with the locals, Greg was happy to relax and catch up on the game - best of both worlds.

Our waitress was super-friendly and very attentive, and we soon had our orders placed and drinks delivered. I tried one of their specialty cocktails - the Pharaoh Mountain; totally refreshing, I will be trying to replicate that at home! Greg loves eggplant, and we both enjoy a good wing, and we were not disappointed when our appetizers came out. The eggplant was delicious - seriously, order it. Seriously.

For dinner, we went with the recommendation of our waitress: Greg order the Blackened Chicken; I went with Pretzel Burger and sweet potato fries. I will say this - I am a french fry snob. I love fries. Love them. Really, I can’t turn down a good fry. These were hands-down the best sweet potato fries - actually, wedges - that I have ever had. And, paired with the Honey Mustard that was delivered with Greg’s chicken, it was the perfect combination.

Of course, Sticks & Stones is known for their wood fired oven. And, while we didn’t order their renowned pizza or salmon for dinner, I would have felt remiss ordering anything but the wood fired Apple Crisp (topped with vanilla ice cream and a caramel sauce) for dessert. And, since I hate feeling remiss… yum.

Drinks, Dinner, Now What!?

And, to think, our night in Schroon Lake was just beginning - where to stay, what to do… but, that’s another blog, for another day. Stay tuned :)

So many sources, so little time ...

The Hudson River has quite a history and is hailed as one of the major defining natural features of New York State. The river spans hundreds of miles from Keene to the Atlantic Ocean. The river is revered by many, and those admirers tend to visit often for all sorts of recreation reasons from photographing to swimming, paddling to motorboating, and fishing to tubing.

Did you know...

This river, known by New Yorkers as a major source of their drinking water, starts right here in the Adirondacks. Where, though? Have you ever wondered where those first few drops originate? You see, while in some spots the Hudson's width expands out to over a mile, at the source you can literally jump across with a solid leap. And, unlike the magical pot of gold at the end of the rainbow, we can help you actually find it.

The Hudson River was named after Henry Hudson. The Englishman captained several sailing vessels in the 1600s and was one of the many who tried to find the myth of the Northwest Passage, and in doing so he sailed the Hudson. The river was once called North River, which is the given name to a small hamlet that rests along its shores in the central Adirondacks. While the river doesn't officially start until the waters converge near a bridge at Upper Works, it can be seen as smaller sources much higher in elevation.

So, get out your hiking gear and include this adventure on your next trip to the Adirondack Hub!

Lake Tear of the Clouds

The Hudson being as massive as it is, you can only imagine how many tributaries and drainages feed it. However, the most famous is Lake Tear of the Clouds which rests on the shoulder of Mount Marcy, the highest peak in the state of New York. Lake Tear sets at over 4300’ feet in elevation making this also the highest permanent water body in New York State; this is the highest source of the Hudson River.

Lake Tear of the Clouds flows from its spring-fed water body down Feldspar Brook where it joins up with the Opalescent River. The Opalescent River is a rather impressive river itself as it stretches out for many, many miles. Its source alone rests on the side of Little Marcy at over 4200’ in elevation, as a small trickle fed by an underground spring. By the time it converges with Feldspar Brook it is a wide train of water rushing westward toward Lake Colden. It flows out of Lake Colden on a gentle course at it reaches the stagnant waters of Flowed Lands where it seems to disappear. However, it forges on and continues its cascading pattern down over Handing Spear Falls and continues to pick up force and additional water on its way to the Hudson River just south of Sanford Lake.

Calamity Brook

What I hesitated to mention is that part of the Opalescent River is also drained even further west along famous Calamity Brook. Calamity Brook is much more of a gentle flowing water, but its body drains to the start of the Hudson River near that bridge I was talking about. As if flows gently down along the hiking trail to Upper Works the sounds mesmerize visitors as it widens into Calamity Pond.

The brook and pond are named after a “calamity” that happened to David Henderson at that very spot. Henderson staked claim to an iron ore vein which is now Upper Works and the home of the Tahawus mine. He had the idea to dam up the Opalescent River to flush water down his blast furnaces, but he never had the chance to see his dream come to fruition. In 1845, Henderson, his son, and guide John Cheney were scouting for places to join the Hudson and the Opalescent when they reached a small pond inhabited by some ducks - known today as Calamity Pond. At this location Henderson put his gun in his backpack after hunting, which he soon set on a rock causing the gun to go off, fatally wounding Henderson — the calamity.

Calamity Brook continues to flow from the pond and builds up power as it makes its way south toward the Hudson River. Cascading through several smaller waterfalls and a couple small beaver habitats, it ends as the Hudson starts.

Lake Henderson

Henderson Lake is fed by Indian Pass Brook which comes directly from Wallface Pond - resting at around 3150’ in elevation on the side of the MacIntyre Range. Henderson Lake is fed of course by many tributaries that come in from all sides to create this gorgeous back-country destination. At 1814’ in elevation, Henderson Lake has only one major outlet and that is into the Hudson River where it converges with Calamity Brook as well.

Lake Harris

Lake Harris, residing in Newcomb, is also an excellent source of the Hudson River but it doesn’t do it alone; it is just the last stop before the river. Lake Harris continues to get fed by several larger lakes further east and north by way of Catlin Lake, Rich Lake, and Fishing Brook. At this point the Hudson River leaves the region and continues to travel south as it makes its way through Minerva and North River, and beyond to the mighty Atlantic.

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Exploring the Hudson River

Up to the point where the Hudson hits Harris Lake and just slightly beyond as it goes beneath Route 28N in Newcomb it has many areas of mellow paddling opportunities. Some sections can be very boney and even a few rapids exist, but the area near Sanford Lake, Harris Lake, and Route 28N are some of the most scenic flatwater paddling areas you can expect to find anywhere. The birding is phenomenal, and the fishing is pretty darn good too. Also, don’t forget to paddle one of the sources on Henderson Lake; this short carry to a true gem is one you will never likely forget.

However, if you are looking for a bit more of an adventure and want to do some whitewater rafting, the Hudson River is famous for it, and several guide services offer an exhilarating ride that you will leave you wanting for more.

 

A couple of weeks prior to this jaunt in the woods, Jim and I found ourselves pondering the idea of doing a hike in the Hudson River Gorge, but the ill-weather forecast caused us to choose a different hike, which brought us in the region near Balfour Lake. The weather prediction for the day, which I fully believe is determined behind the scenes with a roll of the dice, was projected to be partly sunny with a 20 percent chance of rain. We could live with that.

Jim wasn’t exactly sure where to go, so we met at the corner of Route 28N and North Woods Club Road. We then caravanned down North Woods Club Road, spotted a car at the railroad tracks and continued on to the trailhead for Blue Ledges. It had been a few decades since I had been along this trail but I had fond memories of hiking it with my dad to do a bit of trout fishing. I was fairly sure the trail hadn’t changed much, but who knows over the turning of the years if reroutes had taken place or if the trail was deeply eroded. In all actuality it wouldn’t matter — it was just nice to be there once again.

The trail to Blue Ledge

We quickly passed along the muddy trail that skirted the shore of Huntley Pond. The sun was just casting its shadows over the water. We made fairly quick work of the 2.5 mile trail as it routed us up and over rolling terrain. We were welcomed by a flock of geese ushering in the fall season as we reached a high point of land with the Blue Ledges just slightly beyond. It was a sobering note that the warm weather would soon be leaving us for six months, but today would not be the day. The warming rays of the sun were finally increasing the temperatures and it wouldn’t be long before we would shed the morning jacket. We descended to the Hudson River. Standing on a lovely sandy shore, we looked across a deep pool in the Hudson to the Blue Ledges as they glistened with running water.

From here we would look to head up Kettle Mountain, a popular little trailless peak for those who enjoy off-trail adventures. We had never been to this area in such a context and we couldn’t wait to get rolling. We followed the shore of the river, rock hopping as needed, but a decent herd path leading to campsites aided our travels. Soon the path would all but end before us, and we were presented with steep slopes and open hardwoods to get us up on the ridge. High above the Hudson River, the ridge runs through the Hudson Gorge Primitive Area.

Kettle Mountain

The terrain was steep, almost too steep to get decent traction on the moist soil and slippery leaves. We remedied this by heading on more of a side slope to gain the ridge. It wasn’t really that far to get up high, and in relatively no time we started to see potential viewing areas. I say potential because they never really worked out to offer much. However, just as we started to feel skunked on sights we popped out on an open ledge with great outlooks down the gorge. Kettle Mountain was getting closer and closer by the step, but our curiosity between here and there was focused on two streams that looked to be cascading over the steep side of the ridge. Would they provide some decent waterfalls? Well, the first one actually did have a small one up higher on the ridge, but to seek out others downstream would mean descending dramatically, and that was not an option for today. The second brook came much later in a deep dell, once we made our way through the forest.

 

Crossing over the second stream, which at the point of crossing offered no dramatic whitewater, we started to climb Kettle Mountain. It wasn’t much of a climb from here as we did most of it to just gain the ridge from the Hudson. We summited rather quickly and ended up pushing our way through a bit of thick spruce. Once on the upper works of the mountain the views started to appear and around each corner they got better. This was sure to be our lunch counter with the spectacular views of Starbuck Mountain, P Gay Mountain and a unique view of OK Slip Falls deep in the valley below.

Pine Mountain, another beauty

Now it was off to Pine Mountain, the next summit along the ridge. It was quite a ways away, and even as the crow flies it was well over a mile. The other thought we had was that we needed to avoid a very deep basin between us and it, and to do that we would have to deviate from any straight line course of attack and follow its perimeter.

We dropped off of Kettle's summit to other viewing areas, and even more excellent views awaited us atop a small southern summit of the mountain. The descent from here was a tad steep and the mass expanse of the area was starting to set in. We didn’t want the extra distance of skirting the deep cut in the mountainside but we wanted the elevation change even less. We stayed atop the edge of the precipice in what we would describe as fields of gold, which were more clearly defined as wheat grass. The openness of the area was welcoming and even more importantly at this point, easy to travel through. We eventually reached the top of the abyss and simply hopped across the flowage, where a small wetland was above us.

We climbed the slopes of Pine Mountain to see what fortune was awaiting us there. The forest started out moderately easy and quite open as we passed through maples, beech and an occasional white birch tree, but this would only flirt with us as the summit was rimmed with some tight-knit spruce. The top came swiftly as we pushed harder and faster toward the red-pine-covered summit ahead.

The views were not quite as spectacular as Kettle Mountain but they were still worth a visit. With a closer look at Harris Rift Mountain, Black Mountain and Middle Mountain, we decided to hang around for a while and marinate in the views. Eventually we had to move on, so off to Forks Mountain we went. Forks Mountain was actually quite close to where we were standing, but we would need to descend a fair amount of elevation to reach its base.

Forks Mountain and the railroad

The descent as we followed the mellowed slopes of Pine came swift and the steeper portions even swifter. This peak is not as stately as the prior two, with its flanks barely cresting the tree line before us. We could see that we wouldn't have a time of it, but it was important to us to not only see what was up there but to access the railroad on the other side. The railroad tracks were imperative to an easy walk back to the car we spotted on the way in.

In some sort of violent exercise we broke through the thicker spruce waves and into the more open balsam stands. The summit was much more open and to our delight, the northeast slopes were as well. At this point we had just about chewed up our reserves of energy and wanted to just get down to the railroad tracks where we could walk upon a smooth surface. The shadows were getting longer and after only about 15 minutes of an anarchy descent we stumbled upon the old Delaware and Hudson Railroad line. Many of the railroads are being restored and I imagine this one is one of them. What gave it away? Well, the widening of the corridor for one. Some sort of machinery or maybe even a few loggers had come through and leveled about 10 feet of trees and bushes on either side of the tracks. Secondly, there is talk of Tahawus being accessed once again to remove tailings, which have apparently been awarded some sort of value.

We only had about a half mile of railroad line to walk, which after the prior conditions would be a piece of cake even with the oddly spaced ties. Remnants of the old railroad line littered the sides of the tracks, provided an interesting walk through history and quickly brought us back to North Woods Club Road.

If you're looking for something to do after the hike, head to Schroon Lake for shopping, dining and more!

If it's winter, it's about Gore Mountain Ski Resort. This season should be even more exciting, with a number of improvements and expansions throughout the resort.
Skiing, snowboarding, cross-country skiing, and snowshoeing; whatever your winter sport, chances are you can enjoy it even more at Gore.
In 1934, the first snow train brought 378 winter enthusiasts to North Creek where they skied this natural bowl of snow. Now, groomed trails offer alpine skiing, a half pipe and boarder/skierX earthen course, Nordic skiing, and snowshoeing.

More winter fun

Gore got its name by being overlooked. "Gore" is the reference to unsurveyed territory, and the area of Gore Mountain was left off early maps of the Adirondacks.
But it is certainly not overlooked now. Except in the scenery sense, of course.

Gore Mountain has expanded their snowmaking with an eye to their environmental impact. They have replaced older guns with higher efficiency items that use less energy. Gore's latest ground-mounted solar panels on 20 acres are ready to offset 85% of the mountain's energy use. Other strategies are their use of locally produced food when possible, revamping trails for better energy conservation, and recycled trail development of the historic North Creek Ski Bowl.

This is how Gore earned the Golden Eagle Award for Overall Environmental Excellence, the industry’s most prestigious honor for recognizing resort environmental programs.
Nine sides of four peaks have been developed for downhill, glade skiing, skiboarding, and a Nordic system, with 11 trails and increased snowmaking and grooming reach.

More ways to take a break

The process of taking a break for food, drink, and fireplaces has been upgraded. From the past, we can warm up in a yurt.

For the future, the mid-mountain Saddle Lodge is explanding to more than double its previous size. There is a choice of full service or a food court, and those floor-to-ceiling windows, with their views of the Adirondack High Peaks to the north, continue providing some gorgeous vistas.

Above, Saddle Lodge is even more fun now.
Below, the construction process.

There's also a complete renovation of the original 1967 gondola unloading station at Gore’s summit, Straight Brook Lodge. There will be restrooms, vending machines, and a warmup and socialization area. But Gore's history is still there in the retention of most of the original structure and lift machinery.
Gore knows there's more than one way to warm you up, too. Their chef's chili won a recent Bands and Beans competiton, which drew entries from all over the Southern Adirondacks.

The Northwoods Lodge building has a larger rental and repair shop, with increased rental and demo fleet inventories.

More kid stuff

This coming season will also see an expansion of the children’s Mountain Adventure program facilities.

This full service kids program covers instruction and specialized rentals to children from 4 to 12. There's also a Start and Learn To Snowboard program for first-time skiers 13 and older. There's a new 150-foot long Greenway Conveyor, a moving walkway to take beginner skiers and riders uphill with ease and confidence. Choose from two-hour sessions all the way to all-day adventures.

The Mini Learning Park is for beginner skiers and riders, ages 4 to 6, with specially-sized, small snow features. These encourage younger children with their balance, control, and foot movements. It makes for faster skills, letting them ride lifts sooner and explore trails happily. Let your child join a group based on their abilities or ask about personalized coaching.
From six months to 6 years of age, non-skiing children can stay at the Bear Cub Den day care at the resort.

Fun doesn't end

Ski all day and into the night if you wish. Gore has twilight skiing, too. A Gore Mountain lift ticket will include same-day access to twilight skiing at the North Creek Ski Bowl. Have fun under the lights, serviced by the Village Chair, hang out at the yurt, and consider the new Nordic Center or the Village Slopes with half pipe and boarder/skierX.

They also have a podcast that help you keep up with the snow forecast. On weekends there are massages at the base lodge, with special ski emphasis, like the "Pine Knot Remover" and the "Un-Twister." All this and shuttle service, too.
It all adds up to a lovely day you won't want to end. But it will be there tomorrow.
Choose some cozy lodging. Enjoy more before or after-ski dining. Read our blog about local shopping with Two-in-One Shopping Sampler!

 

The Pharaoh Mountains

If seven-packs actually existed, this would be a forerunner in the Adirondack Park. My chum Jim and I had no idea what we were in store for when I dreamed up this wilderness traverse. The only thing we knew was that one of the hills would be at least a decent payoff, according to what we have read and researched, but the other six were total mysteries.

The Dam Hill to No. 8 Hill to No. 7 Hill to Franks Hill to No. 6 Hill to Orange Hill to Pine Hill: that’s how it would play out. Of course, the route was a bit different at the start of the day, but you can’t tunnel yourself in; you need to be able to make decisions on the fly and make your day pliable, especially when bushwhacking. Oh, and yes, it’s actually named The Dam Hill.

We met in Schroon Lake early the morning of and caravanned over to the Pharaoh Lake trailhead and stashed Jim’s car there; as I mentioned, this would be a two-car traverse. We then drove over to the other Pharaoh Lake trailhead that accesses Mill Brook. The prior thought was to do this traverse from west to east, but we opted for the reverse — it just seemed like less car jockeying, even though it really wasn’t.

Stepping out of the car, we were welcomed by a cluster of deer flies. I actually used bug repellant, or bug dope to us old-school outdoor enthusiasts. I figured I would put some on my bald spot; I mean what’s the worst that could happen — I grow hair?

Off we set, following the old forest road that would lead us through the wilderness abyss of trees, wetlands, ferns and rocky terrain.

Adirondack Mountain Wilderness

We followed the narrow and soft-topped trail as it passed by an original wilderness sign, beat up by time and a .22 caliber rifle. Soon we stood slightly above Mill Brook looking up at the Dam Hill and over the vast field of speckled alder. We needed to get around this beaver flow and cross Mill Brook to access the hills we wanted to explore. When we finally stood next to the brook, we quickly came to the realization that we would not remain dry. It was time to ford the fast-moving waters. The recent rain seemed to have made this small stream closer to that of a raging torrent, but at least it was a narrow crossing. Jim went first, mainly because I feel he wanted to record me falling in; I was happy to disappoint. Abby, my four-legged hiking partner, was not so ambitious. As a boxer/pit-bull mix, she is not all that fond of water. Through a bit of coaxing and a little nudge, she finally found herself on dry ground once again.

Almost immediately, we started our ascent of the Dam Hill; open forest greeted us and a soft forest floor cushioned our seasoned feet. We climbed in hopes of a reward, and as we switchbacked over the steeper slopes we saw open rock to our left; we had to check it out — our first view, and on the first mountain, too. We had decent views back to the south and Park Mountain resting high above us. The summit would be only a short distance away but would not add to our prize; we were satisfied. Now onto No. 8 Hill. Our descent into the valley below was minimal and we soon found ourselves at the steep slopes on the south side. Our rather old USGS map had what we call stacked contour lines, meaning steep slopes and possible cliffs; we went right for them without hesitation. It didn’t end up being anything vertical, but more of a boulder-strewn rock slide area. Making course up the steep terrain, we hopped from boulder to boulder and blueberry field to blueberry field, finding ourselves at different views around every corner. Up slightly higher, we could see the rock forming what we thought was the summit, only to find it to be a continuation of the rocky ridge with the true summit even farther away along additional viewing platforms. The summit, well, that was a different story — open rock with Pharaoh Mountain right there to grab and the High Peaks jagged the skyline in the not-so-distant background. The white flowers of the mountain ash trees added a bit of white to the deep greens of the forest and the blues of Pharaoh’s mountainside. The High Peaks were layered in different shades of blue depending on how far they were away, adding layer upon layer of rugged features.

We stayed about as long as our time would allow us. We could have napped and hung out even longer if this were all we had planned, but with five peaks left for the day, we needed to push on. Off to No. 7 Hill, almost directly west of us. Well more than 200’ lower than our current position, we knew we had a large descent ahead of us, and it was a steep descent. The cliffs and odd rock outcropping not only distracted us with more views, but we had to take it very slow to make it down safely; efficiency was not our friend. Finally down, we started a mellow climb through more open hardwood forest stands and atop a shallow ridge. We then stood atop No. 7 Hill. No views were to be had here, but if we had no more views for the day, that would be OK too; No. 8 was our trophy.

An unexpected view

Franks Hill rested only 0.3 miles away along an obvious gentle ridge, we figured we would be there in less than 30-minutes; it ended up being more like 15. The going was cake with nothing slowing us as we approached and passed over the wooded summit to a surprising vista back to the south. We could look right over no. 6 Hill (our next destination) to Park Mountain, once again as the backdrop. It was time for a short break as it was nearing noon, and the lunch monsters in our bellies were getting restless.

After our break, we descended toward No. 6 Hill, which was a tad over a half mile away in a straight line. No. 6, as with the other two numbered hills, was named after the townships they resided in at the time. We didn’t have high expectations for No. 6 to give us any views, but already today we had been proven wrong. We could see on the map what looked to be a rather sizable pond below; we figured why not add to the day’s adventure and check out a pond rarely visited by human eyes. The pond ended up being a beaver creation, rather sizable, and quite attractive. Massive frogs and a colony of beavers seem to be using this as their No. 6 Township; the local pileated woodpecker broke up the silence with its deep thumps against a nearby snag.

After our short hiatus from the mountains, we started up No. 6. The climb was nothing more than a short stroll from the ponds below, even with being slightly off course. There were no views, as we suspected, so we snapped a couple pictures of the treed summit and off we went toward Orange Hill. Our previous plan was to reclimb Franks Hill and use the upper ridge to access Orange, but rather than add an additional climb just to descend the other side of it, we went right back down to the pond — this time the western side — and headed directly toward the summit.

Not much to tell here. The climb was a typical bushwhack through open forest over steep terrain with some usual rocky suspects in the way. But how did it get its name? Orange is such as interesting name. We didn’t get to enjoy any views on this one either but we still had one more to explore: Pine Hill.

Pine Hill, a destination in itself

Again we altered our traverse a bit and, rather than going over two smaller bumps in between, we went right for the summit. The summit wasn’t all that far away, just over 0.8 miles. The forest remained open as expected and as we made course for Pine, we stayed high on the contours as to not lose too much elevation. Finally we climbed steeply to the wooded summit — foiled again, we thought — as we stood amongst closed forest. Then, as we started to make our final descent to Jim’s car, we found a couple peekaboo views from small rock outcroppings in the blankets of Red Pines. We descended a bit farther and there it was, some serious open rock. We couldn’t pass it up, even though we were a bit tired. We felt like we had to take a detour to the rocks, even if it meant we had to climb a bit to reach it. The shelves of open rock gave us an area perspective and a close second in views for the day. Overlooking Schroon Lake and the western portion of the Pharaoh Mountain Wilderness, we were again in awe of our surroundings. The blueberry bushes were now nearly knee deep, especially on Jim, and we had a ball working out the ledge puzzle of how we would safely descend the cliffs. One ledge to the next, one narrow shelf to another, one 5-foot butt slide over a lip to another, and one rock boulder hop to the next, we made our way down to the open hardwoods and onto the Pharaoh Lake Trail, just a mere 0.5 miles from the trailhead.

This called for a celebration, of sorts. We didn’t have any champagne — heck, we didn’t even have a can of Genesee — but what we did have was a Stewart’s right in town, and they had hotdogs and chocolate milk; that would do. The long ride home for me actually doubled up the Stewart’s stops as a cup-of-caffeine-induced alertness was required to make the final stretch home. Thank you, Stewie’s!!!

The Essex Chain Lakes in Newcomb, N.Y., the heart of New York's Adirondack Mountains, is the ultimate outdoor wilderness experience. This 7,000-acre NYS DEC Primitive Area is the newest destination for year-round recreation. You will decompress, relax, see wildlife, and escape all of today's chaos. Depending on the season, you can paddle, fish, primitive camp, ADA compliant camp, mountain bike, hike, ride horse trails, hunt and trap, cross-country ski, and snowshoe. No matter what season you decide to visit the Essex Chain Lakes complex you will enjoy the scenery and serenity of this special place. 

Paddling

Did you know that the Essex Chain Lakes complex offers up 18 unique bodies of water of all sizes and skill levels? The chain (nine lakes total, including Deer Pond and Grassy Pond), the most popular of the bunch, are accessed from the Deer Pond parking lot (via Goodnow Flow Road). The chain will give you the peace and solitude that one can only dream about. The Hudson River (which flows south from Newcomb - east of the complex) connects to the Cedar River (along the southern border of the complex) for miles and miles of adventure. There are multiple entry/exit points along all the different sections of both rivers. Paddlers of all skill levels are certain to have a good time. There are portages throughout the entire complex (chain and rivers). A good rule of thumb…travel light (boat and your essential gear). 

Fishing

All bodies of water in the Essex Chain Lakes complex are open to fishing. Depending on the body of water, one can catch salmon, trout, bass, pike, and/or the beloved pan fish. Fishing licenses are required and all NYS DEC freshwater regulations apply. 

Mountain biking

There are over 20 miles of dirt roads at this hidden gem (this network of roads is not suitable for road bikes/slick tires) that can be accessed from both locations here in the Town of Newcomb (Essex Chain Lakes North and Deer Pond Parking). Electric bicycles of any class are not allowed. Grab your camelback, some snacks, and your repair kit. Adventure awaits!

Camping

There are over 30 designated camping sites inside the complex. There are 11 sites alone that are scattered along the shore of the Chain Lakes. A brand-new lean-to has been built this summer, at the site of the inner Gooley Club, on Third Lake. Designated sites are marked by a yellow “camp here” disc. All sites are first come, first served. Good news…campfires are now allowed in designated fire rings at all designated sites! Campers that wish to stay longer than three nights must contact the local Forest Ranger for a permit. 

Hiking

The Essex Chain Lakes complex has an endless network of old logging roads/trails that are excellent for hiking of all skill levels. The restoration of Goodnow Mountain Fire Tower is currently in progress. These family-friendly trails are the perfect cure for hikers that are looking to explore alternate locations to the High Peaks.  

Horseback riding

Over 20 miles of dirt roads inside the complex are open for horseback riding. Parking for horse trailers is located at the Essex Chain Lakes North parking lot. 

Hunting and trapping

Just like fishing, all the lands and waters in the complex are open to hunting and trapping. Thousands of acres of land between the Chain Lakes and the Hudson River are available. These seasonal access roads may be rough and muddy. Four-wheel drive vehicles are recommended. Seasonal rules and regulations apply.

Cross-country skiing and snowshoeing

Back country at its finest. This network of roads is open to everyone for skiing and snowshoeing. These trails are not maintained nor marked during the winter months. 

Long story short

The Essex Chain Lakes are Newcomb’s best kept secret. The off-the-beaten-path keeps most of the crowds away. This remote destination speaks to those looking for peace and solitude in a primitive setting. We’d love for you to come visit and experience it for yourself. Please remember to recreate responsibly, practice the Leave No Trace philosophy, carry bear canisters, and properly extinguish campfires. 

 

Spend an unforgettable 72 hours in the Adirondack Hub this fall

The days are becoming shorter, leaves are changing color, and crisp autumn air is rolling in. Fall has arrived in the Adirondack Hub, and it's time for you to plan your next family getaway to revel in the season. Nestled in the Southern Adirondacks, the Hub is the perfect location for an escape to the mountains. With towns like North Hudson and Schroon Lake situated directly off the Northway, traveling to the Hub has never been easier, especially for anyone from the Capital Region. Load the kids up in the car and make your way to town for a relaxing long weekend! Gear up for an unforgettable roadtrip filled with days spent on the water gazing at colorful shorelines, cozy local shopping, and adventurous outdoor exploration. 

Looking for a place to stay during your Adirondack getaway? The Lodge at Schroon Lake offers an amazing variety of options and experiences located right on the shores of Schroon Lake. Enjoy their 36-acre property and choose from one of their many accommodations including hotel rooms, "upscale" glamping sites, and standalone cabins and chalets.  

Day 1: Experience Schroon Lake

Launch your first day in the Hub with a boat rental from The Lodge at Schroon Lake. Start your trip off right with an easy going afternoon on the water and enjoy fall from a new perspective. Get comfortable while viewing shorelines dotted with fall leaves. Kayaks and paddleboards are also available to rent for those looking for some added adventure. Whether you're cruising or paddling, Schroon Lake is the perfect place to kick off a family weekend of fall fun in the Hub.

After your day on the water, head into the town of Schroon Lake for dinner at the Trail Break. This American style restaurant is the perfect place to refuel after a day of fall activities. With outdoor dining options and a cozy rustic interior, you're sure to enjoy this dining experience.

Day 2: Discover local shops and hiking trails

Start your morning with breakfast from Pitkin's Restaurant and enjoy coffee, blueberry pancakes, or any of their classic menu items before heading into town to explore Schroon Lake's Main Street. Spend the rest of your morning perusing the charming local shops and businesses that make Schroon Lake so unique. Make sure to stop by Pine Cone Mercantile where you'll find traditional Adirondack furniture, candles, bath & body products, and even a bread shop, North Woods Bread Co, located in the back of the store! If you're looking for the perfect Adirondack general store, swing by The Schroon Lake Department Store for souvenirs, gifts, apparel, or outdoor items. Once your morning on Main Street is complete, get geared up and ready to explore one of the Hub's many hiking trails.

For an afternoon of fall adventure, head to the Adirondack Interpretive Center (AIC) in the town of Newcomb. The AIC is the perfect place for family activities with programs and workshops offering environmental education opportunities as well as a variety of hiking trails! Enjoy the forests, lakeshores, and wetlands of the AIC before hiking over to the Great Camp Santanoni Preserve, or you can even venture over by riding the wagon! This attraction is great for those wanting to discover the history of the Adirondack camps through a unique outdoor experience. To facilitate accessibility to Camp Santanoni Historic Area for people with disabilities, the Department of Environmental Conservation is offering a Mobility Device Reservation Pilot Program for qualified individuals with disabilities to reserve and use a power wheelchair device free of charge. The Great Camp Santanoni and AIC provides endless ways of exploring fall in the Adirondacks, so gather up the family and head to Newcomb for an afternoon of autumn exploration!

What better way to end an eventful day in the Hub than sipping on independent craft brews? Finish your day by traveling over to North Hudson where you'll dine at Paradox Brewery. Enjoy high quality drinks in a lively atmosphere paired with any items from their tasting room menu. Order a specialty pizza, delicious sandwich, or any of their mouthwatering appetizers that the whole family can enjoy! 

Day 3: An all day adventure in the Pharaoh Lake Wilderness Area

A fall trip to the Hub wouldn't be complete without a visit to the Pharaoh Lake Wilderness Area. Located in the towns of Schroon and Ticonderoga, this wilderness area has around 70 miles of trails and an abundance of lakes and ponds to explore. The Pharaoh Lake Wilderness Area is one of the most outstanding parts of the Adirondacks, making it a travel destination for many visitors. Hike one of the more popular trails like Pharaoh or Treadway Mountain, or choose a quieter, scenic hike to one of the ponds. With so many trails varying in terrain and difficulty, you truly can't go wrong picking an adventure in this wilderness area!

After your day in the wilderness, head into Schroon Lake for dinner at the Sticks and Stones Wood Fired Bistro & Bar. Their warm, rustic interior is sure to be the cherry on top of a cozy fall weekend in the Adirondack Hub.

Start your Adirondack getaway this fall!

We've got you covered for your next roadtrip to the Southern Adirondacks, so load up the car and begin your fall adventure just in time to watch the leaves change! Whether you're a family that likes to hike, shop, eat, or relax on the water, the Adirondack Hub is the perfect place for an autumn getaway in the mountains.