It's no paradox: beer and pretzels do, indeed, pair well with happy hour.

So, I happened to be driving down the Adirondack Northway (I-87) on a recent, very hot, Friday afternoon when it occured to me that a stop at Paradox Brewery was in order. It's right at the base of Exit 27, how very, very convenient! Now, I have been here before - and I've written about that experience - but it was late fall, the weather was much chillier, and the indoor tasting room was my destination. It was certainly time to indulge in a new brew in the outdoor tented area that I've been hearing so much about from my co-workers.

Of course, I always feel the need to justify myself, and I often overthink my decisions. If you're like me, I'm going to help you out - read on for the top 3 reasons you NEED to stop by Paradox Brewery. Soon!

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#3: You enjoy a cool, laid-back vibe...

When you pull up to the Paradox Brewery, you are immediately put at ease by the fun, tie-dye adorned, decor. A giant bear is onsight to greet you (and collect your garbage), and the beertenders are on the ball.

You can choose to grab a picnic table, belly up to the bar, or grab some friends and play a few rounds of corn hole.

Sidenote:Take a minute to check out their awesome handcrafted taps - awesome little Adirondack details really add to the fun experience!

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#2: You like fun, friendly people...

When I arrived there were several cars pulling out and for a moment I was alone with the staff. Lucky for me - I got to ask lots of questions, and they were more than willing to discuss in detail what makes each beer special and unique. (I won't even try to begin to explain - you need to experience it for yourself, and I wouldn't do the descriptions justice!)

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Of course, as is the trend at small breweries, the crowds ebb and flow. Within minutes, I was joined by a new group of beer enthusiasts. I met several visitors that decided to stop for a quick tasting while they were passing through town, a group of hikers that were relaxing after a day on the trail, and a fun group of locals that were filling up their personal growlers to take home.

Sidenote, if you are shy, like me: the great thing about beer-tasters are that they are generally quite friendly and willing to talk - even to strange girls that randomly ask to take their picture![/i]

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#1: Shall I spell it out? B-E-E-R!

Here's the thing: I like beer. Here's the other thing: I know nothing about beer. While I enjoy the taste of a good microbrew, I in no way, shape, or form would ever be able to tell you what the distinctive flavors are in a given brew. I also have no problem asking for the details. Luckily, these ladies were ready to pour out the details.

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One of my favorite things to order is a sampler. Here at Paradox the flight consists of 6 small glasses ranging from dark to light. The bartenders give you a run down of what you are tasting, and there is an awesome detailed chalkboard to refer to as well. You learn about the alcohol content, the flavors that are used to enhance each separate beer, and even a little history. All that being said, I like the dark ones. And the light ones. Not the flowery ones. I do enjoy some of the seasonal brews (Pumpkin is next up on the docket here!). And, I highly recommend a yummy pretzel (mustard optional) to cleanse your palate.

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Sidenote: Now that I think about it, it might be time to make another visit - the Pumpkin and Oktoberfest brews should be on tap by now. It seems like it would be irresponsible of me not to report in on them. Who's with me!?
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Fall is a beautiful time to visit the Adirondacks and the Schroon Lake Region has great places to stay for the night. Plan to visit Paradox Brewery for a sampler and then enjoy a pint or two of your new favorite local brew at one of our great restaurants. That's right, when the Brewery is closed for the night, you can grab a pint at the local restaurants (actually, these days, you can grab a pint all the way down into Orange County). What are you waiting for?
Cheers!

 

The Schroon Lake Region events calendar has a few choice late summer events filling out the remainder of the season. On a weekly basis, some summertime favorites include arts, dancing and music.

DROP IN ON SOME ACOUSTICS

On Monday nights, stop on by the Boathouse Theater for some great acoustic music at the Monday Night Acoustic Music Jam. Many of our local favorites on the music scene gather at this weekly jam session to share their talents with each other - as well as the public. New folks are always welcome, so if you’re visiting and have some talent, don't be shy - join in! Or just come by and listen. Bring your chairs and a picnic. The Boat House is on Dock Street and the sessions begin at 7 pm every Monday through October 5th.

TAKE HOME SOME REAL ADIRONDACK ART

On Thursday, September 3rd, don’t miss the last of the Adirondack Artists & Crafters shows in downtown Schroon Lake. They’ve filled the parking lot at the Town Hall each week over the summer with some of our region's finest artists and crafters. Don’t miss this last chance to pick up a truly unique piece of Adirondack craft to bring home!

CELEBRATE THE ROUGHEST RIDER, TEDDY ROOSEVELT

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On Labor Day weekend get your history hats on and join in the fun for Newcomb’s annual Teddy Roosevelt Days. Newcomb holds the distinction of being the area in which Vice President Teddy Roosevelt learned the grim news that President McKinley had been shot and was dying. During his arduous trip out of the wilderness, Roosevelt became President of the United States when McKinley died on September 14, 1901, after having been shot by an assassin in Buffalo, New York, on September 6th.

A big list of events are on the schedule for this much-anticipated 3-day annual event on September 11 - 13, 2015, including music, reenactments, fireworks, food, outdoor demonstrations and much more.

OUTBOARD MOTORHEADS, TAKE NOTE!

If you’re one of those old outboard motor buffs, don’t miss the Antique Outboard Motor Swap Meet in Schroon Lake on Sunday, September 13th. There will be experts in all areas of this very cool hobby of collecting antique motors. There’s no charge for admission nor to display or sell. The event takes place beginning at 9 a.m. at the Town Boat Launch in Schroon Lake.

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MARATHONERS THIS IS FOR YOU

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As the fall leaves reach peak color, Schroon Lake welcomes the many participants in the Adirondack Marathon Distance Festival on September 26th and 27th. This long-standing fall tradition brings thousands of marathon runners to the region. Participants run on one of the most beautiful marathon courses in the Northeast on Sunday, September 27th. Not quite ready to hit the course? Come and cheer on the runners and get inspired.

The Marathon Distance Festival includes a full day of shorter 5K, 10K and Kids Fun Runs on Saturday. With lots of charity options for the entire weekend, you can race and do good at the same time.

For spectators at all our events there is lots to do in Schroon Lake, especially during peak fall foliage. Take advantage of a local hike and make sure to patronize some of our favorite restaurants, shops, taverns and our awesome brewery!

 

This story was originally published in 2015

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Prohibition, meet Sally Miller Smith

Our country’s history is fascinating, and there is no time like the Prohibition Era to get your imagination turning! The 18th Amendment, which was passed in 1919 and stayed in effect until it was repealed by the 21st Amendment in 1933, outlawed the sale, transportation and manufacture of “intoxicating liquors.” As quickly as it took effect, the law produced some badass lawbreakers, none more badass than Sally Miller Smith.

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A little history

At this time in our history, most women supported “temperance.” Temperance meant abstaining from drinking liquor, which people considered to be bad for families and marriages, and showed a weak moral character. Sally, however, did not agree. She thought Prohibition was ridiculous, and she quickly figured out a way to provide liquor to the people who wanted to drink. According to all accounts, Sally loved her liquor, and she figured Prohibition would be a pain for others who wanted to drink, as well!

One place you can go in the Adirondacks where you can learn a little about the Prohibition Era and a lot about Sally Miller Smith is the Silver Spruce Bed & Breakfast in Schroon Lake. You can find it located on Route 9, an easy drive off the Northway. I visited there this week, looking for information on badass women of the Adirondacks, and met Phyllis and Eldon Steelman, owners of the Silver Spruce B&B.

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Visiting the B&B

Phyllis and Eldon happened to be between guests when I arrived, so they had some time to tell me some stories about Sally, who is a local legend. She owned the Silver Spruce B&B long before Phyllis and her late husband Clifford bought it in August of 1981. According to my hosts, Sally added on to her house in 1926, just before Prohibition began, and ran a speakeasy in the basement during the whole Prohibition era. It was set up perfectly for this purpose, too; Sally had purchased the bar from the original Waldorf Astoria in New York City, just before it was torn down (that’s the site of the Empire State Building now). She had the bar brought up to Schroon Lake and installed in her basement. It was there that she held some wild parties, and where she ran the speakeasy when drinking became illegal.

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According to legend, Sally knew Prohibition was coming, and she refused to have it cramp her style. Just before the law took effect, she purchased all the alcohol at three local liquor stores, hiding it in a host of places throughout the bed and breakfast. As we spoke about Sally, Phyllis and Eldon showed me around their quaint B&B, pointing out some of the hiding spots, many that I would never have guessed. There were hidden cubbies with shelves behind false walls that looked like bookcases. Walking down the stairs on the left there was a shelf the entire way down. Behind this shelf, that now holds antiques, was another hidden compartment, where Sally hid more alcohol! It was fascinating to find all the hidden spots, and very clever of Sally to build them to help her skirt the law. To keep the speakeasy going during the 14 years of Prohibition, Sally would travel to Montreal, filling her suitcases with booze and shipping them home to Schroon Lake.

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Sitting downstairs in the speakeasy, I was taken back in time. I felt like the atmosphere hasn’t really changed in the years since Sally was holding her parties, and you could feel the history in the room. I laid a hand on the bar, and could really appreciate the effort Sally made to make sure she and others could continue to enjoy themselves at a time when drinking was considered evil. As we sat there, Phyllis and Eldon shared a few more stories about Sally, one that I thought was hilarious, and made me wish I could meet her. As the story goes, during one of her parties in her speakeasy, Sally had had a bit too much to drink, and tripped when she was coming down the stairs. She tumbled down the stairs, but when she got to the bottom, she popped up and went right to the bar, saying, “Get me another drink!” Sally was not what you would expect of the women of her time, but the people in the community loved her and her eccentric style.

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I certainly enjoyed meeting Phyllis and Eldon, and learning about badass Sally Miller Smith. I will definitely be going back to stay at the Silver Spruce Inn B&B, and I hope to learn more about Sally while I’m there.

Of course, while you're in the neighborhood of the Adirondack Hub, you should plan a stop at some of our local dining establishments - you never know, they may have hidden cabinets and fun stories to share as well!

 

Who knew that unique Japanese-influenced architecture, a National Historic Landmark and an Adirondack mystery are rolled into one Great Camp five miles back from the nearest road in the town of Newcomb? The only way to access Camp Santanoni is on foot, by bike, cross country skiing in the winter or riding a horse drawn wagon. I’ve biked in before and skied partway, but this time I opted to let the horses do the work while I enjoyed a ride in the covered wagon.

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Newcombe Farm, owned by Larry and Pam Newcombe, is in its second season of transporting people into the Great Camp on a daily basis, weather permitting. They ask that folks call ahead for a reservation (518-639-5534 or 518-480-1743) and they are able to accommodate anyone. They even have a wheelchair lift equipped wagon but they do need prior notice if it needs to be used. They charge $25 per person for the 10 mile round trip ride, but anyone over 62 or physically unable to make the trip on their own are free. According to Larry, they are able to provide this through a grant from the State of New York to insure compliance with the Americans With Disabilities Act.

I had family visiting from out of the area, including my snowbird parents and my Long Island-based sister and her three kids. I thought spending a day at Santanoni would be an interesting trip for everyone. I was not disappointed. It was a real work day for the horses as the wagon was full with 12 riders, my nieces sharing the bench seat up front with Larry, and two more adults, two children and a dog riding in the trailer behind the wagon. The trailer also carried coolers, a tackle box and two canoes with paddles.

On Our Way!

Our journey began just after 10 a.m. from the Gatehouse complex of the camp. It’s a good idea to browse through the Gatehouse for a quick overview of the historical camp before starting your trip. There you’ll learn the Camp was originally built for the Pruyn family of Albany in the late 1800s. Robert Pruyn was a wealthy banker who wanted a “gentleman’s farm” in the country. His wife, Anna, wanted a lakeside rustic retreat. The resulting Great Camp Santanoni was their compromise. We didn’t have to read all this at the Gatehouse on our trip though, because we were fortunate enough to have Emma, an intern at Santanoni, on the wagon with us. She gave us a tour of the farm complex and around the Main Camp when we reached it.

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The farm complex, a mile from the parking lot, was our first stop. In keeping with Robert’s dream of a “gentleman’s farm” everything the family needed for the self-sustaining camp was grown or raised here. In fact, the farm sometimes had such a productive growing season the Pruyns would send the fruits of their labors down to their home in Albany via an 11-hour wagon ride. The food reached Albany much more quickly after the automobile came into their lives. Emma pointed out the complex’s remaining buildings, including a creamery, the farm manager’s house, a smokehouse (in the woods - you have to look for that one) and other assorted service buildings, as well as the foundation of the barn which burned in 2004.

We explored on our own for a short while before climbing back into the wagon. The road through the property was a little bumpy, but very scenic and noticeably increasing in elevation as we neared our final destination. The gradual ascent is much more pronounced when my legs are pumping the bike pedals and not resting in a horse drawn carriage!

Just minutes before reaching the Main Lodge, we slowed down at a bridge with water on both sides. The left side is Newcomb Lake, the right is Duck Hole. There are eight designated campsites around the Main Camp complex and the first few are on the Newcomb Lake side of the road. If you want to camp in this remote location for a few days, maybe bring in a canoe or some kayaks along with your gear, you can arrange with Larry to haul everything in for you and come back whenever you want to be picked up.

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The Main Lodge

We pulled up to the impressive log buildings right around noon. Larry pointed out what we needed to know the most – the direction of the outhouse – and we were left to walk around for the next two hours. The Great Camp is located on the shore of Newcomb Lake. Robert Pruyn had spent several years of his youth in Japan and was influenced by the culture. He hired an architect who would incorporate Japanese influences in the design of the main lodge, notably in the “great roof” which is one continuous roof over all the separate buildings. From the air, the design is intended to resemble the mythological Phoenix in flight. The main lodge also faces west, believed to be a sign of enlightenment.

Each building within the main lodge had an intended purpose – from the bachelor and bachelorette quarters for visiting guests, to the rooms for the Pruyn family members, to the large center building which housed the great room and dining room. A massive stone fireplace is the centerpiece of this building, which features birch wallpaper, multi-paned windows facing the lake, and doors adorned with medium sized twigs. The continuous roof covers a deck walkway leading to the kitchen, which was fairly modern for the 1900s, and would be the “tail” of the aerial bird’s eye view.

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We left our cooler on one of the picnic tables on the deck facing the water and set off to discover the property. The first building we visited, off to the south of the Great Camp, was the boathouse. There are several boats, paddles and life jackets available for use. I suspect the aluminum canoes and modern day kayaks were not part of the original fleet. It was pretty windy the day we were there and the water looked choppy so we opted not to venture out onto the lake. We did take advantage of the cool day to follow a trail around the north side of the lake, past the artist’s studio that was built for the Pruyn’s son, to a four stall bathhouse set on a very small beach. The rest of the primitive campsites are along this stretch of the lake as well. A loop around the entire lake is 4.2 miles.

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We returned from exploring in time to enjoy our picnic lunch and listen to Emma’s presentation about the history of this fascinating place. All of the logs used to build the camp were harvested from trees on site. The Pruyn family preferred smaller, more intimate groups of people but that’s not to say they didn’t entertain. They were a prominent family who hosted the likes of Theodore Roosevelt, James Fenimore Cooper and other notable people from history.

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A Boy Disappears

In the mid-1950s, heirs of the Pruyns sold the Great Camp to the Melvin brothers from Syracuse. The brothers and their families enjoyed their Adirondack retreat until 1971 when one of their grandchildren, Douglas Legg, disappeared without a trace from around the Main Lodge. Accounts of the last time he was seen vary. His uncle told one story the day of the disappearance and changed it days later. Douglas’ brother gave another version when their mother finally allowed investigators to question the child. No remains of Douglas were ever found after a massive manhunt and the truth of his disappearance remains a mystery.

After Douglas Legg vanished, his family wanted nothing more to do with Santanoni. A year later, the State acquired the property. For almost 20 years the Great Camp sat while the State decided what to do with it. Since it’s in the State Forest Preserve, would the “Forever Wild” clause require the buildings be taken down? Thankfully, a group of interested parties proposed to the State that the Great Camp be preserved as a historic area and the idea was adopted. Santanoni is also a National Historic Landmark.

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Like the mythological Phoenix that rose from the ashes, Santanoni has not only remained intact, it has been given a new lease on life over the last two decades. Through a cooperative effort by the Town of Newcomb, DEC and Adirondack Architectural Heritage, there has been funding for a variety of renovation projects. A local master carpenter works on many projects around the Main Lodge, and each summer architectural students contribute their talents toward restoration of different parts of the camp. Over the last decade, I’ve personally watched as the boathouse was restored and almost all of the individual panes in the Main Lodge’s many buildings have been lovingly re-glazed. Informational kiosks have also been added throughout the property. The transformation has been wonderful to see. The complex may be shaped like a bird, but it really is more like a jewel.

Our return trip was shorter than the ride in because we didn’t stop at the farm complex. Although we only traveled five miles back to our cars, it felt more like we journeyed through a century.

Ready to visit? Plan a stay in the Schroon Lake Region and put this Great Camp on your must-visit list!

A Morning Start on the Trail

After a peaceful night’s camping along Moose Pond Way, Wren and I loaded up our camp and drove the short distance on the rocky and bumpy road to the trailhead for Vanderwhacker Mountain. The morning was cool and the trail was shady as we set off on the easy and wide path. The trail rose and fell smoothly, but generally climbed from the parking area and we made quick progress through a beautiful deciduous forest of maple, beech, and yellow birch, among other species. The songs of Red-eyed Vireos, Hermit Thrushes, and Swainson’s Thrushes led us up on our gradual climb.

Beaver Wetlands and the Fire Observer’s Cabin

After a half mile or so the trail became muddy along the edges of a few beaver wetlands, I paused to look for birds among the dead trees and brushy edges of the water. A Great Blue Heron flew out of the trees in the rear of the flooded area, a few Common Yellowthroats and a Canada Warbler sang from the wet thickets along the water’s edge. We soon reached a small stream where the bridge had been uprooted and twisted by the enormous bundle of roots of an upturned tree. As we approached the crossing the sound of fluttering panic met our ears and a mother Ruffed Grouse scolded from the bushes and ferns as her young scurried to safety. She was still scolding when we crossed the stream, managing the brook easily on a few rocks

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The trail took a decided turn up hill and away from these wet areas, we were soon climbing steadily through more stretches of magnificent deciduous forest. I was somewhat surprised when we reached the old buildings of the fire observer’s cabin so quickly – just over half way along the trail. We poked around the remains of the place – many things were still where they were left many years ago – giving one the impression that folks abandoned the post without much planning. From the cabin our pace slowed considerably as the steepest section of trail rose before us for about the next half mile. The pitch eventually softened but we still made steady work upwards through a forest composition that included an increasing number of conifers as we ascended along the ridge towards the summit. Magnolia and Yellow-rumped Warblers, and Golden-crowned Kinglets sang from the balsam and spruce. At one point I thought I saw the fire tower which marks the summit through the trees, but I soon realized I was mistaken. Call it a hiking mirage.

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The View from the Top

But we did eventually reach the 3385 foot summit soon enough and both Wren and I took deep drinks from the water in my pack as a few black flies buzzed around us in the dappled sunlight. Only one side of the summit itself is open, but the fire tower offers a commanding 360◦ view of the surrounding landscape and the High Peaks to the north. I climbed up it for photos but didn’t linger too long – I could hear Wren walking up the stairs below to come visit me and I wanted her to stay off the tower even though the wire mesh around the steps had looked sound on my way up. Once I came down she was happy to stay down too. We sat and watched a group of Chimney Swifts zipping around the peak in search of flying insects and I surmised they may well be nesting and roosting in natural cavities since there were very few man-made cavities from which to choose. Perhaps they were using the chimney of the fire observers’ cabin.

Satisfied with our rest and view, we started back down the trail. A short ways along it I heard the distinct nasal calls of Boreal Chickadees which came close to us to check us out as I made soft pishing sounds to attract their attention. My pishing also drew the interest of a Red-breasted Nuthatch.

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We moved on, watching the forest transform back into a largely deciduous habitat as we reached the fire observer’s cabin quickly, where Wren drank from the neighboring stream in the shade. The final descent with its relatively gentle grade was quicker still, and we were soon passing the series of wetlands again. Fewer birds sang than on our way up as the morning was growing old by that time, giving me less motivation to stop. We were hungry for lunch anyway and I had only brought along a few snacks for the hike so I was happy to keep moving. We were soon back at the car for food as we started the slow drive back out towards Route 28N, later topping off our day with a cooling swim for Wren in Cheney Pond.

Plan your adventure to the region by checking out our outdoor recreation, lodging, and dining pages!

A Chance to go Camping

Last week Wren and I took a camping trip down to Vanderwhacker Mountain Wild Forest where we explored a variety of places for birds and anything wild. After a brief stop in Schroon Lake, we drove from town up into the wild forest where we briefly explored some areas along Northwoods Club Road before stopping at the southern trailhead along Route 28N for Hewitt Eddy.

Hiking to Hewitt Eddy

From the southern trailhead it is just under a mile to the Eddy itself and Wren and I made quick progress in the late afternoon through a beautiful mixed forest on the snaking pathway, brushing bracken ferns as we went. While the warm afternoon was largely quiet, we still heard and saw quite a few birds including Magnolia and Black-throated Blue Warblers, as well as Hermit Thrush, White-throated Sparrow and Blue-headed and Red-eyed Vireos. We eventually made our way to the water where the Boreas River cuts along the northern access trail. There we found the wide, slowly turning Eddy of the otherwise rocky and bubbling stream and Wren plunged in to cool herself off.

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Her splashing may have aroused the interest of the local beaver which suddenly appeared and slid quietly over towards where she stood on shore. Then with a mighty thump, it splashed its tail and dove in an effort to chase us away. It was soon back, lurking near where Wren had jumped into the water, and remaining much closer than I usually see beavers do when we are out hiking. I tried to take advantage of this by snapping photos of it while attempting to keep Wren away from spooking or agitating it. After a few minutes of this we left to explore part of the northern arm of the trail along the Boreas River before retracing our steps to the southern trailhead. For folks with two cars, they can hike the short two mile trail straight through.

Birding Along the Roosevelt Truck Trail

The day was cooling to evening by this point but there was still time to explore along the Roosevelt Truck Trail, so we drove a short distance north on Route 28N to the somewhat hidden trailhead which marks the southern access to the trail. We hiked the grassy road perhaps a mile each direction, I was listening to the quiet woods while Wren was busy sniffing the ground. In a low, thicket of balsam fir, a family of White-throated Sparrows began to scold us – I could see that a few of the birds were recently fledged young which were looking rather ungainly and awkward as their feathers grew in an unbecoming manner and pushed out their natal down. Young birds always look funny at that stage.

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I decided to encourage their scolding by calling for a Barred Owl and the sparrows responded by doubling their chirps. Soon other birds were responding too, as the forest formed a posse to chase the unseen owl away. American Robins, Swainson’s and Hermit Thrushes, Hairy Woodpeckers, Yellow-bellied Sapsuckers, Golden-crowned Kinglets, Black-capped Chickadees, an Ovenbird, Red-breasted Nuthatch, Magnolia Warbler, and both Blue-headed and Red-eyed Vireos flitted this way and that and scolded me from the trees. After a few minutes and having satisfactorily disturbed the neighborhood for long enough, I stopped calling and watched as the birds quietly slipped back to hidden perches, presumably content that the owl was gone for now. We turned and walked back to the car.

Finally Getting to Camp

Our final stop of the day was to find a campsite on Moose Pond Way, back south along Route 28N and directly adjacent to the bridge over the Boreas River. We made slow progress on the rough and rocky road, but we finally found a few open campsites, chose one, and I pitched the tent while Wren explored our environs. White-throated Sparrows, Red-eyed Vireos, and an Ovenbird called and sang from the growing shadows, but the evening choir was dominated by Swainson’s Thrushes and Hermit Thrushes whose ethereal songs are the perfect backdrop to any Adirondack camping experience. I fed Wren, and cooked in the twilight, listening to them until they finally became quiet with the night. I cleaned up our things, and Wren and I crawled into the tent early, as we generally do when camping.

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It was a beautiful night for camping as temperatures cooled in the darkness. Wren lay with her face pointed towards the door in order to keep watch, with me lying beside her, sleeping, but listening to hear the sounds of the night around us. At one point – and I don’t know at what time - a Barred Owl called. I lay listening to it before turning and falling back to sleep. The following morning arrived, much as the prior day had ended – with the songs of Hermit and Swainson’s Thrushes leading a chorus of birds as our natural alarm clock. I listened to them before finally getting up, and as I moved around camp on the chores of breakfast and breaking down the tent, we were treated by both a flyover of a Red Crossbill and a short visit from a Boreal Chickadee. It was going to be a great day to be in the woods.

It's a great time to plan a camping trip to the Schroon Lake Region. Check out our camping, dining, and outdoor recreation pages for more information!

View in seclusion, the Hoffman Notch Wilderness

Jimbo and I had a plan. Well, I had a plan, and Jim was all about coming along for the ride. I have driven by the North Hudson exit off I-87 probably a hundred times now, and over the course of those passings I always feast my eyes on this one particular peak that rests over the top of Palmer Pond. I had always assumed it was Squaw Mountain from a quick look on my topo maps, until the one day I really did some research and found that it really doesn’t have an official name and Squaw Mountain was a small peak just south of it. So, I decided to call it Palmer Pond Mountain for a lack of a better name - who knows? Locals may have a different name already in place, I would be curious to know. It appeared to have some nice rock ledges worthy of a visit.

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Now back to our plan. We would start at the Dirgylot Trailhead off Route 9 north of Schroon Lake. This would be our access point to pass over Wyman Hill, Squaw Mountain, and then Palmer Pond Mountain before descending down to Palmer Pond and meeting a second car, making for an epic 8-mile or so traverse in the Hoffman Notch Wilderness. Seemed simple enough on paper, but boy was it going to be hot and humid! The humidity and the heat were almost an identical match at 80 degrees and 85% humidity. It was going to be a sauna of sorts by noon.

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After meeting up at the old Frontier Town parking lot, we first spotted a car at Palmer Pond just up the road, and then carpooled the few miles over to the Dirgylot Trailhead. This is an old trail, but the DEC Trailhead is rather new. The trail soon brought us to a car width passage through a culvert under I-87 which directs adventurists into the Hoffman Notch Wilderness. On the opposite side the trail remains very wide, almost like an old road, which it very well may have been considering the size of the culvert we just passed through. Climbing immediately up over a shoulder of Dirgylot Hill on our left we were happy to be on a trail, as we knew it most likely wouldn’t last long. From a previous adventure in this area I recalled that the trail split about a half-mile or so from the culvert (of course it was so long ago, it easily could have been another spot, but sure enough, there was the splitting). The split was more like a T-intersection, left goes behind Dirgylot Hill and Smith Hill. Right headed in the direction we wanted, more of a northerly direction right toward Wyman Hill.

Wyman Hill

This secondary, unmarked trail went on and on and on, from a wide ATV-sized trail to a narrow path, to a wider foot trail and back to what looked like an old road. Overall it was in fantastic condition and only a couple spots required us to hop over a downed tree - this was a gift for sure. As the heat started to bring our internal body temperature to a slow rolling boil, the humidity coated our skin and caused me to start steaming from beneath my pack, a sight I am used to seeing, but generally in the winter where the air temperature is much cooler. We took a short break next to a small waterfall where we splashed a bit of water on our faces, and powered up to finish off our approach to Wyman Hill.

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The old road that we were on continued, but as it swung further away from Wyman and closer to the Peaked Hills, we decided it was time to start a bit of cross-country travel. The route toward Wyman was an easy bit of traveling. The forest was open and the brook crossings were a piece of cake. Finally at the base of the peak we could start to do some serious climbing, and by serious I mean wicked steep! We came to the base of a long, very high angled rock slab - closely resembling a rock slide without the debris of downed trees at the base. It could have been a really old one, but I think it was just too steep to support life; hopefully it would support ours. The rock was “sticky” as climbers call it - which is just a term for rough rock with enough features for your rubber soles to grip. As we progressed we started to get some of the finest views I have ever had of Hoffman Mountain, Blue Ridge, and the Peaked Hills. We sat atop the rocks to take in our find. The summit wasn’t far from here and it took us only a few more minutes to find it, although other small viewing areas delayed the quest. The summit was open rock but the surrounding trees blocked potential views. We were now off to Squaw Mountain, a peak smaller than the hill we were on - odd how something gets credited as being a mountain and others not. The descent was thick and scratchy but quick. The climb was almost non-existent at only about 130 feet of gain. The summit was not much to write about; wooded and viewless, buggy and muggy, we moved on.

Palmer Pond Mountain

The descent off Squaw was a bit more than the climb, but again it didn’t take long to reach the base of Palmer Pond Mountain. A nice brook ran through the pass, giving Abby a nice drink, and saving our water supply, that we would so desperately need a bit later. We would now climb up the steep slopes of the mountain in what would be 900’ in under 0.4 miles. The climate was now reaching nearly unbearable temperatures and the exhaustion of the steep climb with temperatures in the 80s was wearing on us. We were sure at some point we suffered from heat exhaustion. Even with plenty of fluids in our system we ended up getting a bit nauseous and light-headed as we climbed, and I am sure it wasn’t elevation sickness. The closest way out was to go up and over to the other car, so we just went very slowly and inched our way higher and higher. Hand over fist - on all fours at times - we pulled our way up with aid of trees and roots.

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Open rock and small ledges hindered fast travel, but opened up the forest to small pockets of cool breezes that gave us moments of relief and a bit of a mental vacation to help us continue. Finally at the base of the summit cliff we could stand on flat ground and ponder how we would get around its massive expanse of granite. A shelf would give us route around and up top of the rocky summit. The breeze was a treat, cooling our flesh and drying our clothes. We were almost instantly refreshed, yet in the same token we were drained. The views were astounding, none so spectacular have we found in quite some time; we could live here.

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Our residence atop this mountain lasted about 30 minutes until we could get our feet back under us in a more stable form than the Jello-knees we currently had. Cairns marked the summit, showing that this unnamed beauty of the wilderness gets some visitors from time to time. Soon we had to leave; we still had over 1.5 miles to get back to the car which, depending on the terrain, could venture closer to two. We descended slowly as we still felt weak and my water supply was dwindling. Jim offered up some Gatorade, which I knew I may have to take him up on later. We were descending now at a rapid rate, and on the descent my need for water was much less apparent, but my need for salt was not. We rested a bit longer so I could eat some salty almonds I had in my snack bag - which I think gave me a bit more of the electrolytes my body needed - Abby and I finished off the water.

Two small ridges blocked us from the car. So, while unwanted, we needed to climb over them to gain the slopes we desired to reach Palmer Pond far below. We soon hit the state-property line which was still a bit above the pond but followed the side of the final ridge which would bring us down to the edge of I-87 where we would have to cross The Branch at the base of the dam on Palmer Pond. There was no way we would cross this outlet without falling in or wading up to our waist, so we opted for plan B, which was not a favorite of mine, nor one I looked forward to. We needed to walk about 100 feet down I-87 across the bridge, and with a dog, this would not be fun. Jim carried my trekking poles and I hoisted Abby up into my arms, which is easier said than done with a 60-pound wiggle hound. I ran as best I could as she began to slip, it must have been a sight for those driving by. We made it to the other side and onto the grassy shoulder of the entrance ramp with no issues, but it surely was not something I wanted to do again anytime soon. Back at the car we finally stood, exhausted, dripping in sweat and coated in a fine layer of dirt and balsam needles. The car was baking at close to 100 degrees inside; we couldn’t wait for the cool breeze to clean the funk and nature from our bodies.

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Parched and ravaged I couldn’t wait to get something in my stomach; a quick stop at Stewarts in Schroon Lake on the way home was just the ticket. Want to learn more about the Hoffman Notch Wilderness? There’s plenty to explore - and many treks that are super user-friendly for those of you that would prefer not to bushwhack! You should hang out in Schroon Lake for a few days and visit the Pharaoh Mountain Wilderness Area as well, trust me you won’t be disappointed.

 

 

DID YOU KNOW that Snyder Hill has one of the most fascinating hidden views?

Snyder Hill? Where’s Snyder Hill? Well it’s not far from the town center of Schroon Lake. If you locate Hoffman Road and follow it toward the small Hamlet of Irishtown you will drive right beneath it. From the road you can see it clearly and if you look close you can see the cliffs residing near the summit.

Now, more importantly, to access this summit you will have to have a bit of navigation and cross-country travel experience. While the bushwhack to the summit is very straight forward it helps to know how to use a map and compass and GPS. Private land rests ever so close to the route up this peak and you want to assure that you remain on state land throughout the hike.

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If you park your car along the shoulder slightly north of west of the summit, along state forest preserve property, you can work your way up the mountain rather effortlessly. The forest is close to that of a boreal forest but with more tall pines and hemlocks and less of spruce and balsam. With a small bit of deadfall along the ground it is a bit slow going at first but soon opens up to a wonderful hardwood forest. The slopes are very steep in areas and several small seeps or springs make it a tad wet at times. Two parcels of private land nose right up to state land so if you come to the property lines just follow it uphill to stay on state land. Once you pass through that narrow corridor you are pretty much free to roam the summit area. The views are spectacular and the ledge is a perfect spot for a picnic, a nap, or to just feel the nice breeze blowing over you.

DID YOU KNOW that Hoffman Notch Wilderness was planned to have a ski center on it?

It’s true, and I didn’t know it until ever so recently. The nearly 39,000 acre wilderness area was planned to be the third state run ski center. It was in the mid 1960s that there was a proposal to build a ski resort with lifts and over 30 miles of trails on the massive slopes of Hoffman Mountain. It which would also extend a bit further off the mountain onto the steeper slopes of two of the three Peaked Hills just to the east of Hoffman proper. The plan was sponsored by a local Winter Sports Council with support from many local officials. As a group they all pushed the opportunity to bring an economic boom to the region. The idea made it past the county and state legislatures but got voted down in the end by voters. Could you imagine the transformation of Schroon Lake if this were to have happened? Neat to think about.

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Today the Hoffman Mountain Wilderness is used mainly by hikers through Hoffman Notch and bushwhackers in search of summiting Hoffman Mountain and Blue Ridge Mountain which are two of the Adirondacks 100-highest Mountains. But if you have never been back to Big Marsh, I highly recommend it, the wilderness experience is wonderful.

DID YOU KNOW that Sharp Bridge Campground is a perfect location to basecamp for the weekend?

Sharp Bridge is a state run campground located off Route 9 just north of North Hudson. Its small quaint stature is also the oldest state campground in the Adirondacks. From the campground you can venture out on the trails and hike back to Shingletree Pond, Round Pond and Triangle Pond without setting foot in the car. A short distance away you can access the backside of the Dix Mountain Wilderness, the Pharaoh Mountain Wilderness, the shops and restaurants of Schroon Lake, the Town Beach on Schroon Lake and dozens more hiking destinations scattered about the Schroon Lake Region. The offerings are nearly limitless. Enjoy fishing? Cast a line in Schroon Brook or walk up the road to Courtney Pond and set a cast for some native brookies. Want to float softly downstream? Visit the Schroon River. Like rock climbing? Check out King Philips, and other rock climbing destinations just minutes away.

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DID YOU KNOW that Schroon Lake has some of the most outstanding Lake Trout and Landlocked Salmon Fishing in the Park?

Fishing you say? Why not explore the massive expanse of Schroon Lake itself. With nearly 25 miles of shoreline this lake is worthy of casting a few lines. Whether from a boat or the shore you can surely find a way to do some fun angling. But if you want the best opportunity to latch onto a record-winning lake trout or landlocked salmon you will need to get out on a boat and approach the deep water of the lake. Sure a kayak would work but get your hands on a small boat with a trolling motor and you are sure to reel in a nice-sized fishing story. While much of the shoreline of the lake is private you can access the waters from the town beach area and near the southwest shores of the lake and at Eagle Point State Campground.

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This is only a small taste of what the Schroon Lake Region offers, and more surprises wait around every corner. Be sure to come and stay and come back often and see what we mean by “Schroon Lake is really one of the finest places to be."

 

By Kathryn Behuniak

My husband is always anxious to get out onto the water and paddle. For the last several years, I was focused on completing my quest to hike all 46 of the Adirondacks’ High Peaks. Now that I’ve met that goal, I’m ready to row! I’m not a complete newbie to paddling. We’ve owned recreational kayaks for over a decade. We’ve paddled many different ponds and areas in the Central Adirondacks, and generally prefer “the pond less traveled." In other words, the more remote, the better. Our latest adventure met that criteria nicely.

Open For Business

Within the last two years, sections of the Park that were previously inaccessible to the general public have opened up through the cooperative effort of the State of New York and the Nature Conservancy. Among those are the Essex Chain of Lakes and a section of the Hudson River from Newcomb to Indian Lake. On Father’s Day weekend the weather was absolutely perfect for paddling. It was absolutely perfect for just about anything in the Adirondacks, but since it was Father’s Day weekend, The Hubby got to pick the adventure! He wanted to explore a section of the Hudson River called Blackwell Stillwater.

In order to get back to the remote put-in, we had to drive about five miles or so from Route 28N on the Goodnow Flow Road. Near the end of this road, we turned left. If you turn right onto Woody’s Road, you follow the Flow around to the parking area for the Essex Chain. We’ll explore that on another perfect day. Today we went left and just past the dam, there’s a dirt road on the left. The road’s in pretty decent condition and we drove it until we saw a small parking area on the left – and an outhouse on the right. We parked here, unloaded our double kayak and began the trek to the put-in. It’s about a third of a mile from the sign-in kiosk, which is just beyond the parking area, down a dirt road to the river. It’s mostly downhill, but we were still wishing we had the little carrier with wheels for the boat!

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It took us about 15 minutes, with a few rest breaks, to get to the sign for the Hudson. The “downriver” put-in is to the right. Before we committed to that, I walked down an overgrown, grassy trail to the left to see about putting in “upriver” of the bridge. We were thinking of heading toward the Goodnow River first, and then paddling downstream. There didn’t appear to be enough clearing to launch our boat, so we opted for the downriver spot. But first we walked onto the bridge. The sturdy iron bridge is for members of the Polaris Club to access their camps which are on the far side. Unfortunately for the owners of the hunting camps, their leases expire in 2018 due to the State’s acquisition of the land. Until then, they have exclusive use of the land over the bridge and we respected their rights.

We spent few minutes soaking in the tranquility of the scene before getting our life jackets on and putting our oars in the water. The put-in was a short hop through the woods from the dirt road and in no time we were off. My concern when we decided to check out this section of the river was that we would have to work hard paddling upstream on the way back. That wasn’t really an issue. This section of the Hudson isn’t named “Stillwater” for nothing. The River is so wide at this stretch that the current is very dispersed. As a result, we didn’t have great difficulty on the return trip, but we also didn’t enjoy a “free ride” when going with the current! It was a nice, leisurely paddle.

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A Peaceful Paddle

Initially we passed several hunting camps on the left as we headed downriver, but before long they were out of sight and we were truly alone. We marveled at the fact that there were no clearings along the banks and imagined what it was like for the first settlers who traveled by water with nowhere to pull off for the night. The only paths we saw were those that appeared to be made by some beavers, otters or other critters making their way through the woods to the water.

After about an hour, we heard the sound of rapids. I was anxious that we didn't inadvertently end up heading for Indian Lake and was ready to turn around. The Hubby wanted to explore the area “just a little closer” to the rapids, and I reluctantly agreed. We were in a double kayak – I didn’t have much choice! Fortunately, there are decent-sized boulders to the left of the rapids which helped insure we were not hurtling towards certain death through the terrifying rapids. Yes, I may be prone to a little exaggeration, but the barrier rocks did go a long way to calming my fear that we would somehow end up in this small section of rapids.

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Once The Hubby’s curiosity was sated, we turned to paddle back upriver. We crossed toward the opposite bank where there was a small area out of the flow of the river and just sat listening to the birds and for any signs of other wildlife. We grabbed a snack and began paddling. Staring us right in the face was a spectacular view of several High Peaks. Our view appeared to be the McIntyre Range (Marshall, Iroquois and Algonquin - if my identification was correct. The current was not overwhelming and we enjoyed the mountainous vista as we slowly made our way back toward the bridge. For the first time since we put our boat in the water, about two hours earlier, we actually saw other people. Two guys passed us heading downstream. They had the types of kayaks that are made for shooting the rapids and judging from the GoPro camera affixed to the front of the trailing kayak, that was their plan.

Our trip was not as adventurous, but I’m certain we enjoyed our paddle just as much. As we approached the iron bridge we could see several people fishing and one or two soaking up the sun on the large rocks on the camp side. We talked about trying our luck and paddling through the rapids under the bridge to head upstream toward the Goodnow River, but that conversation ended when we realized if we were unsuccessful, at least half a dozen people would witness us capsizing. The Goodnow could wait until another day… and maybe we would start the trip by putting in on the north side of the bridge. That way we could explore the Goodnow first and then, if we were feeling daring, paddle through the rapids under the bridge and ultimately take out on the downriver side of the bridge.

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We were tired but not exhausted after about 2.5 hours of paddling and floating. There were still no other cars in the lot, so the two adventure kayakers must have begun their trip at the Lake Harris boat launch in Newcomb. That would have guaranteed them a few sets of rapids before we passed them further along in their trip.

Take advantage of this paddling opportunity now. Once the word gets out about this pristine area of the Hudson, it’s possible you won’t enjoy the same solitude we did. A stop for lunch at the High Peaks Kitchen and Campground on Route 28N in Newcomb rounded out a wonderful afternoon in the Adirondacks.

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A Schroon Lake Adventure

Vanderwhacker Mountain is a pretty popular hike, mainly because it has a fire tower and falls on the Adirondack Fire Tower Challenge list of peaks. However, these other two gems in the region rarely fall within the sights of hikers. I’m talking about Oliver Hill and Snyder Hill located just east of Irishtown and west of Schroon Lake. A friend of mine reached out a few days prior about checking out these two small summits of the Adirondacks and, with my inability to say no to a bushwhack adventure, of course I said yes.

Looking at a topo map, they look to be some real gems. Tight contour lines gave face to apparent steep terrain which opens up potential for views and plenty of low-lying flat expanses. They often give us beaver swamps and unexpected wetlands, it was sure to be an adventure. Estimated at about a 4-mile traverse through the wild forest, we knew we wouldn’t be out all day, but honestly you never can tell.

Off to Oliver Hill

Meeting at the Schroon Lake Stewarts, we drove over and spotted a car near Irishtown and drove back to start our hike from the north near Oliver Pond. The day was sure to be a nice one (at least that’s what the weather man said, and they never get it wrong!). The woods were open, but we quickly started to fight the drenching effects of all the rain we received as of late last night. The intermittent streams and drainages were flowing like rivers and sediment was streaming past us at a rapid rate. If it were not for waterproof footwear, we would have been squishing water between our toes within minutes. This seasonal drainage we were on was actually the perfect route for the path of least resistance, as water also uses that concept. It flowed through a shallow divide of two smaller hills, removing debris from around its edges, making a path through last fall’s leaves, which also makes for a perfect habitat for ferns and other undergrowth. Small fields of maidenhair ferns dotted the landscape. It’s such a rarely seen fern, so it was a treat to see so many in one spot. The stream split into several smaller ones as it cascaded over the small stones and sandy surfaces, but eventually we would be high enough where most of its source would disappear into a field in interrupted and ostrich ferns, as well as several vernal pools heavily habituated by frogs and a black lab named Toby. Abby, our other four-legged hiking companion, wanted nothing to do with the murky stagnant waters. She took a couple leaps of faith to get across the water, as Alan and I both did.

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Now we would face our first challenge, a huge beaver marsh. We wondered how would we get across this? Looking upstream, we found a narrowing of the water running through. With the help of a couple trekking poles, we made it across dry. As we crested a small hill, we soon came to another crossing, this one more like a small pond, and we needed to go downstream and find a dam to cross. As we made our way downstream, we came to the realization that we were on an island, which we just circumnavigated back to where we crossed the outlet. So back across the outlet we went, downstream to a beaver dam at the base of the small pond. Finally after about 20 minutes of messing around, we were across.

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Once across the low land areas that we so wanted to avoid, we could finally start our climb of Oliver Hill. The terrain wasn’t all that steep as a whole, but certain sections did require more of an effort, especially with the soaked mosses and ground covers. Slowly the forest turned from a mostly hardwood cover to a mixture and then to a mostly spruce and balsam forest type. While a bit scratchy with decades of deadfall and standing snags, it wasn’t all that dense, but that didn’t stop me from drawing blood. A high shelf on the summit gave form to a small high elevation bog, which we avoided to protect its rich green beauty. Pressing on to the summit, which wasn’t all that far away, the forest fed us naturally to the highest point which was fully wooded, and smack dab in the middle of “Spruceville.” Looking through and beneath the trees, I could see what looked to be a nice opening, maybe a viewing area, I supposed. I went ahead of Alan to scope it out, but quickly called back confirming his need to come over. A small ledge opened up a peekaboo view, and upon further exploration I found a better observing platform atop a jumble of boulders that had broken away from the main body of the summit. A positive payoff was awarded to us, and we were happy to accept.

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Snyder Hill is Next

Now we would head toward Snyder, which in all honesty looked to be the better of the two according to our map recon. We had a tough time staying on line to get off the wide ridge, but with a few harsh corrections we managed to get back on course and finally stand below the steeper slopes of Snyder. Only after we fought step ledges, deep creases in rocks, stirred up a nesting bird in the ledge, and enjoyed a quaint little waterfall did Snyder’s ridge show itself as a fantastic sight for our eyes.

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Hardly a speck of evergreens to thwart our forward progression and the forest seemed to get more open as we ascended. Fields of ferns to push through was the extent of our torture, and that sure beats a balsam branch in the eye!

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As we approached the summit, the open forest looked to have potential views off to our left. I walked around a bit and found nothing, so I made a course right for the summit. We passed beneath a tall ledge, lined at the top and base with a rich green salad mix of ferns and sedge. The summit was wide open but dotted with tall maples, giving us a very welcoming feel, but no views. I again had to follow my instinct and look for a view near the stacked contour lines on the map.

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It wasn’t but a couple hundred feet and we were atop a long, wide open ledge that overlooked Irishtown with Moxham Mountain and Gore Mountain shadowing the narrow streets and scattered homesteads below. We remained here eating lunch and taking photos for nearly an hour before we set foot again following the rocky ridge to the west toward our second car.

The descent was steep and arduous on the knees but it got us down very fast. We followed an old wire fence as it passed through a massive seep in the ground. The seep made the footing ever so slippery beneath us, and the rocks scattered about made it even more unstable, but once we were on a less aggressive course everything cleared up except for the forest. It was like we were on an inverted mountain. Where most peaks have spruce and evergreens near the summit cone, this was at the base. Massive hemlocks and white pines towered above us as we worked our way through needle carpeted forest. We passed through the narrow corridor of state land and past the private land, which we somehow managed to nail perfectly; then we were at Irishtown Road, close to where we had parked the car. This was a great hike with great payoffs, and we went off to a bit of a fast dinner at Stewy’s before I set on home.

If you are interested in other hiking adventures in the Schroon Lake area, we have whatever you are looking for. If you wish to be guided into the forest and beyond, we have guides all ready for the task. Oh, and don’t forget, come back to our blog often for more backwoods adventures!

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