It's almost inconceivable that Schroon Lake can sometimes fly under the ice fishing radar, shoved off into the corner by the sprawling waters of nearby Lake Champlain and its incredible winter perch fishery, as well as the smelt that annually spark the creation of mini ice hut villages on places like Bulwagga Bay.

But make no mistake, Schroon Lake does, in fact, have a following of its own among hard-water anglers in the know. The reason is simple: the fishing can be fantastic.

I fell in love with the lake more than a decade ago when longtime friend and Adirondack guide John Gereau introduced me to its ice fishing wonders. We pulled three fine lake trout through the ice one January morning, and I was a believer from that day forward. And the lake didn't disappoint, alternately yielding landlocked salmon, perch, smelt, and northern pike in subsequent outings.

I've always been enamored with the 4,000-acre lake's salmonid population (lakers and landlocks). To me, lake trout and landlocked salmon are symbols of pure, cold water and the northwoods. So over the years I've pretty much ignored Schroon's perch possibilities, unless it meant simply grabbing a jigging rod after I'd set a few tip-ups for the lakers and landlocks. The lake – actually the Schroon Lake Fish and Game Club – also hosts a hugely popular ice fishing derby in early March each year, an event that includes a spaghetti dinner and raffles and has become a tradition for scores of hard-water anglers.

What I have learned along the way after fishing Schroon Lake for a few years is, arrive early. And I mean early. Cutting holes in the dark is normal for me, and that first hour after sunrise often seems to be my most productive. If that means staying home at night and getting to bed early, so be it. That's really not a big deal for me, even on traditional times like New Year's Eve when going out and staying out is the norm for many. A few years back, I never made it to midnight, choosing instead to forego Dick Clark's Times Square celebration and get some sleep, the truck packed for an early-morning departure down the road to Schroon, where safe ice awaited.

Paula came along on this outing, when temperatures were fairly comfortable as we trudged across the town beach entry point to a likely looking spot where we could set some tip-ups and enjoy the sunrise. I wondered how many anglers were struggling after a night of ringing in the New Year; I thought maybe I could sell aspirin for $5 a pop.

No wind on this morning, which in my mind was a great way to ring in the New Year. Our tip-ups were set at varying locations and depths. In winter, the lake trout and salmon could be cruising anywhere in the water column. But when our first flag popped shortly after sunrise, I was fully convinced it was a big pike that consumed our live shiner bait in the shallowest of our tip-up sets. It was off and running, threatening to run the entire reel out of its braided line. It was time to set the hook and see what was going on down there.

A couple minutes later, and after a dicey cat-and-mouse game at the hole, we flopped onto the ice my biggest Schroon laker ever, topping 9 pounds. Not a bad way to start the New Year. I wondered where it would stand on the leaderboard had I landed it in early March during the derby.

We stuck around for a few hours before deciding to return home to OD on college football bowl games. The big laker – this one I took home for the grill – drew some attention as we hauled our sled off the ice. To me, it was just a reminder of the possibilities Schroon Lake offers every time you walk on its water in winter.

If you're looking to get out on the ice this winter, check out one of the many guides in the region. And when you need to warm up after a long day on the ice, you can visit one of Schroon Lake eateries, where you'll find something for everyone's taste.

Satellite-Projected Image of Blue Line to be Implemented

Schroon Lake, N.Y. — Originally proposed in 1885, the installation of a visible boundary to define the borders of the Adirondack Park is finally a reality.

The new border will consist of a satellite-projected image of a blue line, designed to commemorate the blue ink that was used to define the Park boundaries when they were first drawn on New York state maps leading up to the Park’s official establishment in 1892.

The Blue Line Projected Perimeter Project was spearheaded by the Adirondack Cartologists Society, and it has been been supported widely. Project proponents boast that the highly visible, defined boundary provides several benefits.

First, as a tourism destination since the late 1800s, the Adirondack Park’s lack of entrance gates has long been a source of confusion for leisure travelers to the region. Destination marketing representatives confirm that confusion exists. “Visitors often complain that they want to brag about entering the park, but are not sure when exactly they cross the Blue Line,” said Jimmy McKanta, president of the Adirondack tourism bureau. “With the increased importance of word of mouth promotion via social media, that ‘bragging’ is of more marketing importance than ever before."

Perimeter Project committee member Dave Shore was responsible for acquiring the grant funding for the development of the graphics and the actual satellite technology. Shore touts the maintenance-free nature of the projected Blue Line. “A line that is painted or otherwise physically drawn on the ground would require caretakers,” he said. “The projected blue line will show on TOP of the snow and leaves, eliminating the need for shoveling or raking.”

Wildlife advocates are also in favor of the project, highlighting the benefits of a purely visible blue line versus a physical boundary with access gates. “We are pleased that once the Projected Perimeter is in place, it will not affect wildway corridors,” said John Axis of the Adirondack Black Bear Society. Although the organization has expressed interest in a physical border to the Park as a checkpoint for things such as the transfer of invasive species, and firewood from outside the park, they agree that the positives outweigh the negatives. “Once out of hibernation, the bears, and all other animals for that matter, will be free to leave the Park.”

While the project has been met with unprecedented support for an initiative of its significance, some groups have expressed concern. The Park in the Dark Coalition, a local environmental group that seeks to protect the land inside the Blue Line from any increased light pollution, has made some proactive suggestions. “We’d like to suggest that at the very least, a darker blue within the electromagnetic spectrum is used,” said Willie Rightway, a representative from the Coalition. “That caveat would be appreciated, in order to keep the wavelengths of visible light down to a reasonable level.”

Elected officials see the projected Blue Line as having potential economic benefits. “This Projected Perimeter could have a built-in revenue component,” said Mayor Rabideer of the Saranacs. “A visitor Park Pass could be introduced, perhaps with a projected Blue Line-activated QR code. Those without one would be able to pay for them at strategically placed electronic kiosks. Passholders would earn a list of benefits, including 6er and 46er trail access.”

The Projected Perimeter Project committee has not yet finalized a Blue Line time line, but anticipates implementation no later than the 150th anniversary of the Adirondack Park’s establishment.*

For more information about the Blue Line Projected Perimeter Project, contact the Adirondack Cartologists Society via GPS or visit adirondacksusa.com.

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*The preceding story is fabricated in celebration of April Fools day, popular for the commission of good-humored practical jokes of varying sophistication.

 

The Schroon Lake Region events calendar has a few choice late summer events filling out the remainder of the season. On a weekly basis, some summertime favorites include arts, dancing and music.

DROP IN ON SOME ACOUSTICS

On Monday nights, stop on by the Boathouse Theater for some great acoustic music at the Monday Night Acoustic Music Jam. Many of our local favorites on the music scene gather at this weekly jam session to share their talents with each other - as well as the public. New folks are always welcome, so if you’re visiting and have some talent, don't be shy - join in! Or just come by and listen. Bring your chairs and a picnic. The Boat House is on Dock Street and the sessions begin at 7 pm every Monday through October 5th.

TAKE HOME SOME REAL ADIRONDACK ART

On Thursday, September 3rd, don’t miss the last of the Adirondack Artists & Crafters shows in downtown Schroon Lake. They’ve filled the parking lot at the Town Hall each week over the summer with some of our region's finest artists and crafters. Don’t miss this last chance to pick up a truly unique piece of Adirondack craft to bring home!

CELEBRATE THE ROUGHEST RIDER, TEDDY ROOSEVELT

On Labor Day weekend get your history hats on and join in the fun for Newcomb’s annual Teddy Roosevelt Days. Newcomb holds the distinction of being the area in which Vice President Teddy Roosevelt learned the grim news that President McKinley had been shot and was dying. During his arduous trip out of the wilderness, Roosevelt became President of the United States when McKinley died on September 14, 1901, after having been shot by an assassin in Buffalo, New York, on September 6th.

A big list of events are on the schedule for this much-anticipated 3-day annual event on September 11 - 13, 2015, including music, reenactments, fireworks, food, outdoor demonstrations and much more.

OUTBOARD MOTORHEADS, TAKE NOTE!

If you’re one of those old outboard motor buffs, don’t miss the Antique Outboard Motor Swap Meet in Schroon Lake on Sunday, September 13th. There will be experts in all areas of this very cool hobby of collecting antique motors. There’s no charge for admission nor to display or sell. The event takes place beginning at 9 a.m. at the Town Boat Launch in Schroon Lake.

MARATHONERS THIS IS FOR YOU

As the fall leaves reach peak color, Schroon Lake welcomes the many participants in the Adirondack Marathon Distance Festival on September 26th and 27th. This long-standing fall tradition brings thousands of marathon runners to the region. Participants run on one of the most beautiful marathon courses in the Northeast on Sunday, September 27th. Not quite ready to hit the course? Come and cheer on the runners and get inspired.

The Marathon Distance Festival includes a full day of shorter 5K, 10K and Kids Fun Runs on Saturday. With lots of charity options for the entire weekend, you can race and do good at the same time.

For spectators at all our events there is lots to do in Schroon Lake, especially during peak fall foliage. Take advantage of a local hike and make sure to patronize some of our favorite restaurants, shops, taverns and our awesome brewery!

 

This beautiful Wednesday evening has me headed south to the town of Schroon Lake and the Seagle Music Colony—easy to get to but tucked away in the woods. Tonight is opening night for "Little Women."

I have been to this venue once several years ago for the company's production of "Crazy for You" but the Seagle Music Colony is celebrating its 97th season and I regret not having made it to more shows in Schroon Lake. I have seen several of the shows on tour at the Lake Placid Center for the Arts over the years and while I was checking out the details on this show, I noticed that the Seagle Music Colony is touring the opera, "Little Red Riding Hood" and will be bringing it to Lake Placid on August 1. The Seagle Colony has extended its summer season into the fall and, as a result, this opera is also available to bring to North Country schools. I believe Keene Central School (where my son attends) will be one of the schools presenting it to students, through the sponsorship of the not-for-profit East Branch Friends of the Arts. (But I digress.)

I arrive about 50 minutes before curtain time and General Director Tony Kostecki informs us that there is a lecture going on in the adjacent building. My friend and I scurry over and are pleased to catch some of Director Richard Kagey's talk about the origins of this opera and how much author Louisa May Alcott drew from her own life for the novel of the same name. We learn quite a bit about the author's feminist leanings and transcendentalism. The room is packed and the audience is eager to hear the real-life parallels between the two.

The production director states that some of the opera is extremely tuneful, and some is not. "It is very text driven," Kagey says. He goes on to explain that although this opera is in English, there will be "super titles" displayed. In fact, he warns that there is a tongue-in-cheek acknowledgement of the "super titles" in the lyrics in Act II of the opera, which Kagey makes clear is strictly the invention of the man who wrote the opera, Mark Adamo, and has nothing to do with Alcott's work. The director shares his enthusiasm for the opera and his company, "The cast has done a great job with it. They're the right age. For me it's been a really interesting journey." Even though this is the second time he has directed this piece, he is still finding new things the second time around and that it is "wonderful to revisit the piece."

The room we are seated in for the lecture is obviously a rehearsal hall for the cast who Kagey has referred to as: "young." But don't confuse young for inexperienced because the cast that vocalizes "Little Women" for us tonight is nothing less than professional and each one is extremely talented, as evidenced by substantial biographical program notes.

The opera opens with Jo at home in the Marsh attic and Laurie, Jo's long-time male friend and neighbor, bursting in to explain his marriage to Jo's youngest sister, Amy. Not the way most "Little Women" scenarios unfold but a clever way to begin and it works. Jo then relates her narrative through flashback. The opera focuses on Jo, her desire not to grow up, the love stories that she struggles against, and how these love stories engulf her.

The two hours go by quickly and the director is correct, some of it is tuneful, some of it is not. In fact, there is a number in Act II sung by Aunt Marsh and Jo that reminds me very much of Stephen Sondheim's "Into the Woods."

"Little Women" at Seagle Music Colony will be over by the time you read this, but upcoming shows include Mozart's "Don Giovanni" and Sondheim's "Sweeney Todd." Some of the company members will be presenting "Hooray for Hollywoood: A Revue of Music from the Movies" and "Little Red Riding Hood" at various venues in the Adirondacks.

To get dates and times and learn more about the magic of Seagle Music Colony, click through to the web site. For more on the wide-ranging arts events in the Adirondacks this summer go to the Events page.

 

Kathleen Recchia has been enjoying the arts in the Adirondacks for about 20 years—both as observer and participant (acting, directing, and producing). She also enjoys cross-country skiing, juggling, and hosting visitors to the area at her bed & breakfast in Jay. 

 

In Newcomb there is a world of forest and some superb views. The spring bonus snow we got last weekend made a hike up Goodnow Mountain even better than expected. 

The heavy snow that fell the week before had been sitting for a few days and made a sturdy base so we were able to climb without snowshoes. Three inches of mega-crystalline super-fluff on the surface made everything twinkle.

The trailhead for Goodnow is well marked, just a few miles west of the village of Newcomb and the Adirondack Interpretive Center. Students from SUNY's College of Environmental Science and Forestry maintain the trail.The snow covered most of their work but the bridges felt sturdy under foot and made nice patterns as we crossed.

This trail is a beautiful woodland path. It starts low and climbs gradually so you can look around and appreciate the forest. There are numerous small brooks that add nice sound effects, gurgling to life after being muffled all winter by the snowpack.

We flushed a few grouse and took a close-up look at a skinny little spider that was probably hoping for some snow fleas to eat. None were apparent—the temperature was around 20 F.

As we got closer to the top we came through a saddle that was the only place we considered putting on the snowshoes we had carried. For one hundred yards we trudged through knee deep drifts where clearly the wind had blown with force and piled up the dry snow the previous night.  

From the saddle we reached the old barn. Guidebooks tell that the Anna and Archer Huntington who once owned the land logged with horses and this dilapidated barn is what remains. Above the cabin we passed through the little col and then up to the summit, where the fire tower surprised my companions even though they new it would be there.  

Fire towers to me are elegant in a mechanical way. The stairs can have a rickety feeling but the cables hold tightly. At around 60 feet in height, the tower at Goodnow is one of the higher ones still standing. From it you can see a 360-degree wow when the sky is clear, which fortunately it was last weekend.

There are very few places where hikers can get a comparable view for the amount of effort it takes to climb the 1000 feet up this mountain.The sky had opened with sunshine for us and we could see all the way to the High Peaks in the north and across the much-discussed Essex Chain of Lakes to the south. On the top level of the tower we got our bearings and identified the distant peaks with the help of the interpretive panel.  

We didn't investigate the ranger's cabin. It hasn't been used for fire observation since 1979 but I've read that research is being done on canopy cover from the fire tower. The solar panels on the ranger's cabin must be powering the remote camera and other instruments. Photos of the forest from above could tell scientists about changes in leaf-out timing from year to year.  

After an excellent lunch, (Why hike without good food?) we descended. Inspired by some great fisher tracks we bushwhacked and found interesting scent posts and tracks that danced down a fallen tree, eventually leading to a brook and putting us back on the trail.  

Goodnow is a great hike in any season. The view is outstanding, the fire tower is historic and the trail is easy on the legs. We were about an hour and a half up and the same coming down, including stops to examine lots of things both ways. We planned to ski some of the AIC trails but will have to come back when we have more time. 

The WHOLE time, it was just Kevin, Katie, a couple ravens, a few chickadees and me.

Ever since I hiked to Oxshoe Pond last winter, I've wanted to go back to the Pharaoh Lake Wilderness and tackle its namesake mountain.

We decided to take advantage of a sunny day last weekend. And though there are not-quite-winter conditions yet, cold but no real snow accumulation, I thought we might see SOMEone on the trail.

So, on Sunday morning, my husband and I packed up our snacks, extra warm gear, microspikes, headlamps and our dog Katie and headed to Schroon Lake.

There are a number of interconnected ways via different trailheads to get to the Pharaoh Mountain trail, but we decided to try the shortest possibility; which is about 8 miles round trip.

Depending on the conditions and your vehicle, it's possible to drive to the trailhead at Crane Pond via Crane Pond Road. We were in our minivan (yes, I know; and we don't even have any kids), and the road is dirt, with quite a lot of bumps and icy spots, so we didn't quite make it all the way to the pond. We stopped at a pull off and hiked about a half mile the rest of the way up the road to the pond itself. When we got there, there were two big SUV's, so we knew there were other parties on the trails somewhere.

I had been at this junction when I hiked from the Short Swing Trail to Oxshoe previously, so I recognized the walkway to the beginning of the trail. A few yards after we passed Crane Pond, we spotted the trail register and signed in. It appeared that there were two parties, both camping overnight since the day before; one at Oxshoe Pond, the other at Pharoah - not specifically at the lake or the mountain. We anticipated running into them for the next 4 hours.

This area seems nothing like most of the High Peaks trails. Sure, there's trees and DEC trail signs, but the forest FEELS different. The trees are a mix of old growth giant pines left from the last timber harvest, and newer growth. And it's an easier outing; the terrain is moderate - not "High Peak" vertical. This is a walk in the Park.

Or so I thought.

We passed the junction of the trail to Oxshoe Pond pretty quickly (the sign said .7 miles from Crane Pond), and headed toward Pharaoh Mountain - another 2.3 miles. (The sign also said that the ascent was 1,457, I saw on our way back.)

I love hiking in the Adirondacks this time of year; with no snow on the trail, the greens of the conifers and abundant mossy coverings seemed brilliant. It was oddly quiet - with only the sound of chickadees here and there. We followed the well-defined trail, which was fairly easy walking until the last half mile or so. That's where the 1,500' ascent began.

The trail at this point could be called "moderate" in difficulty. And luckily, we had brought along our microspikes just in case there were icy conditions on the trail near the summit. They are the "equalizers", making a challenging, slippery, hands-on-the-deck traverse into a comfortable climb. Hiking trails often become the path of least resistance for any flowing water, so it's likely to run into icy sections this time of year. We donned our equalizers after realizing the section was longer than a few steps. Katie brought her built-in spikes, and was able to navigate around the ice better than we were.

We soon reached the summit, which afforded spectacular views of Crane Pond and Schroon Lake and beyond. Kevin, being an avid rock climber, knew that there was a much sought-after ice climb on the opposite side of the mountain, so he went exploring a bit while I ate some more snacks and took pictures. I could see and hear a few ravens in the direction he headed - the only other sound we had heard aside from the chickadees. There was virtually no wind - a good thing - but I was cooling down from inactivity and added layers (always bring extra layers and wind protection!), prepping for the descent.

Kevin wasn't able to find the cliff from this location; it is typically accessed from a bushwacking trail from the town of Adirondack on the opposite side of Schroon Lake. We packed up and headed back down. The trip back down any trail always seems shorter; and it did go a bit faster than the ascent.

When we passed the Oxshoe Pond Trail sign again, I wondered where the other hikers were. One of the two SUV's was gone when we reached Crane Pond. We hadn't seen a soul the entire day! We ambled back down to the minivan, about 5 hours after we had left it.

I then mentioned that I wished I had a cheeseburger. That suggestion was all it took. We drove straight down Schroon Lake's classic resort Main Street and stopped in front of Pitkin's Restaurant. A couple was exiting the front door just as we entered, and we saw that we were, again, the only people around in this classic diner-style eatery.

A friendly voice from the back said - "sit wherever you like!" We chose a booth, and were immediately provided with menus, on which I spied the bacon cheeseburger right away.

We ordered our comfort food and waited approximately 3 seconds and our plates were in front of us. I didn't actually time it, but I believe it was about 2 minutes later that we had stuffed all the homemade goodness in, and, satisfied without adding dessert, swiftly got our check.

I knew that the restaurant had been there for a while, so I asked the waitress (the only other person we'd seen all day) if there was any printed information about the place that I could read. She said, no, but they were celebrating 105 years of consecutive business this year, and the current owners have been running Pitkins for about 60 of those years!

We couldn't have planned it better. This deserted weekend hike adventure is an anomaly - but we were psyched to have the entire Pharaoh Lake Wilderness to ourselves for the day! 

Once again, Gore Mountain has been working hard on major improvements for the new season. Improvements include increased and nature-friendly snowmaking capacity, a two-story expansion of the lodge, and trail improvements, along with the return of favorite events.

Last year brought a complete renovation of the original 1967 gondola unloading station. The new Straight Brook Lodge has a warming room, restrooms, and vending machines for a quick snack at the tables and benches. There is a bigger gear shop, children’s Mountain Adventure space, and a new "family restroom" for parents with young children.

The results of the big glade cleanup means all 28 glades are ready for freestylers, including "The Trench," the newest glade addition and the second with all-natural features.

Corduroy mornings

Celebrate the most terrain in New York state with Gore's expanded trails, which now cover 42 miles and 439 acres. That means more grooming, so two new machines joined the grooming fleet. Say goodbye to that unfavorable hump at the bottom of Cloud/Ruby Run. Now the entry into the Saddle is smoother and faster.

Gore kicks off the event season with Nordic Fest and Learn to Cross-Country Ski Day on December 8, 2018. The next day will kick off Season Passholder Appreciation Week. Then, on the Dec. 15, it's the Gore Mountain Snowshoe Race.

Up the children's skills with Gore's special Christmas Holiday Camp and MLK Weekend Holiday Camp, designed for children aged 4-12 years. This program includes the child's lift ticket, lunch, and supervision each day. There are classes for skiing and snowboarding, or choose personalized instruction.

For midweek savings, it's the return of Why Not Wednesdays. Get savings on lift tickets by presenting a ticket seller with any unopened Coca-Cola product, which includes Dasani water, Minute Maid, Nestea, Barq's, or Canada Dry.

January 20, 2018, brings fireworks and a torchlight parade with the Torchlight Parade & Fireworks Spectacular.

Find out more with the Event Calendar.

Cozy atmosphere

There are four new renovated and expanded onsite lodges. Get tickets and lockers at the Base Lodge, which also have four different dining options. Northwoods Lodge is the center for rentals and children's programs. The mid-mountain Saddle Lodge has the choice between full-service and food court style dining. Straight Brook Lodge at Gore's summit is a brand-new place to warm up with lovely views and new snacks.

There will be two-level additions to double the size of the Tannery Pub & Restaurant, with a complete renovation and expanded kitchen. The lower level addition will be headquarters for the popular Season-Long Mountain Adventure programs for kids.

Nature, first

Sometimes, Gore can show their eco-friendliness with smaller things, like the composting toilets in the lodge at the summit, or the new ChargePoint stations for electric cars. Other times, it's about the big things, like building the largest dedicated ski resort solar array in the US. Either way, Gore is committed to renewable energy and environmental sustainability.

Gore has won the esteemed Golden Eagle Award for Overall Environmental Excellence, the industry’s most prestigious honor for recognizing resort environmental programs. They have chosen equipment to create high-efficiency snowmaking, searched out locally produced foods for their kitchens, and made trail modifications with the goal of conserving energy. The recent redevelopment of the historic North Creek Ski Bowl has revamped the trails with earthen freestyle features and other environmentally-friendly approaches.

Of course, all great winter recreation is about the snow. Gore's Sunlight Into Snow program conserves natural resources and ensures guest satisfaction with a major overhaul to the snowmaking system with the latest technologies, focusing on key trails and the ability to respond to real-time weather changes.

As always, Gore Mountain's greatest commitment is to serving up a good time, on or off the slopes.

Book at a charming B&B or inn in Schroon Lake and experience their hometown dining. Explore the Events Calendar.

 

 

Big city vs. a small-town girl

I was driving through a larger city last week, freaking out about the onslaught of stop lights and the multiple lanes of traffic, when I got into a debate with my travel mates. Everyone in the car was from what I term "downstate" - y'know, not from the 'dacks. And oddly enough, they all contend that it was much easier to navigate and travel in urban/suburban areas.

What? It seems my friends are all crazy.

They listed their concerns when traveling in the mountains:

1. GPS doesn't always work
2. Darkness
3. Windy roads
4. Not many people
5. Wild animals
6. Getting lost
7. Let's sum it up - basically fear of the unknown...

This made me start thinking about perspective. I took a minute to counter their reasons with my own take:

1. Paper maps - never leave home without one! Honestly, I have horrible luck with most gps gadgets - and there are awesome detailed maps available for folks like me.
   (Yeah, I know this makes no sense, but I can read an old-fashioned map better than following a little blue dot on my phone.)
2. Cars have lights, cell phones have lights, and what do you think flashlights were made for!? What I suggest is that you actually stop, turn off the lights, and take some time to gaze up at endless starry night sky.
3. All the more reason to slow down and enjoy the views! One of my favorite things is wondering what will be revealed around the next corner or at the top of the next hill.
4. Shhhh. Hear that? It's the sounds of nature and peace.
5. Yeah, aren't they cool? Keep your distance & respect their space and you should be fine.
6. One of my favorite things! It's how we find a new favorite restaurant, a new trail to hike, a beautiful view. a secret swimming hole!
7. Everything is unknown at some point in our lives. Isn't it time to conquer the fear?

Change of scenery

I have to stop and wonder, though, if others face a bit of trepidation when planning their Adirondack travels.

My friends' fears of the secluded mountain life are exactly the things I embrace. I mean, if asked to list my favorite memories from my days spent in Schroon Lake as a child, they would include feeding bears at the Minerva dump (no, you can't do this anymore), random drives that always had us exploring little town stores which led to discovering tasty local goodies, filling our drinking water jugs out of fresh mountain springs, and swimming in secluded watering holes.

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That being said, and it being the spooking season, I do have one favorite memory that would probably freak my friends out if I shared it with them. It still gives me goosebumps once in a while - although I have to say it's led to many scenic rides and cool discoveries over the years as I try to retrace my route. It's from a point in my childhood when my brother and I got lost on a random backroad long before gps & cellphones were the norm. You really can find some pretty amazing things when you just hit the road and drive - of course, you may never be able to find it again.

(The following excerpt is from a blog first published in 2014. For the record, it's a true story and I'm still searching.)

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A Ghost of a Memory

It was like a Ghost Town; actually, it was a Ghost Town…

One day, and this memory has stuck out in my head for years and years (27 to be exact), we found a Ghost Town. I mean, a real, honest to goodness Ghost Town. We had taken a drive down a backroad as was tradition, and eventually turned off onto an unmarked right-hand road - dirt path is probably more accurate. Soon enough we were forced to stop driving, and we decided to park and walk along the path for a bit. When the trees eventually opened up we found ourselves in the midst of our biggest discovery, ever. It was a town, maybe that’s being generous - it was a small encampment. Every building was abandoned; weeds and trees grew up through the broken foundations. Doors hung off of their casements in crooked angles. In my memory, every house is a bleached off-white, grayish color. The color you see on decaying houses along the ocean’s coast. The color of tombstones.

There was a circle in the center of the small village - I can only imagine it was the town green, a gathering place for town meetings. This, too, was severely overgrown. And, I can remember as we looked around (snooped around), opening doors and noting that many items still remained in some of the buildings, I can remember the distinct feeling of being watched. Of wondering if we were alone. Of having a chill settle in, and an uneasy feeling come to rest. My brother felt the same, though he didn’t openly mouth these words; I could tell by his stance and the forced levity in his voice as he spoke - he was "creeped out" (for lack of a better description).

I kept catching glimpses out of the corner of my eyes of movement. Wanting to seem brave, I laughed it off, chalking it up to what must be an animal - a bird perhaps, or chipmunk, something quick and fleeting. We decided to start walking back to the car when movement to our right caught our attention. Since the sun was shining, and obviously, obviously this creepy feeling couldn’t be real, we goaded each other into investigating. What we discovered was a graveyard that may have included the whole population of this town. There were very few variations of last names, and I can remember thinking, "wow, this family lost 6 members all within a year." I felt the chill wear off as the inquisitiveness kicked in. I walked from stone to stone in wonder, reading aloud the names. Acknowledging that they had existed, wondering how they lived and why the families had settled here. There were children, so many children’s markers. I wondered if anyone had survived. Was there a plague? Famine? This needed investigating when we got home.

As the sun started to lower, we knew we needed to make our way toward the dirt path and civilization. But it was hard, we didn’t want to leave - we felt a pull to stay to keep taking in the scene. We looked around one last time, still feeling watched - but not scared, or at least not as scared as earlier. Okay, who am I kidding - of course I was scared.

That evening when we talked to my dad about our discovery, he mentioned that it might have been an old settlement called Irishtown. He remembered his dad telling him about it when he was a young boy... (cut to the present!)

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It was a dark and stormy night…

Actually, it was a gorgeous fall day, and I was on a mission. I was going to get lost again, find the town of my childhood memories, and prove to myself that my childhood imagination may have been a bit more active than normal on that day.

I'll admit, I was a bit scared. I mean, c'mon it's the Halloween season and the woods are a little darker and louder than during the hot summer months. Aas I had no intention of investigating on my own, I brought along Greg, my willing (or at least, agreeable) partner-in-adventure.

Following some suggestions from a local, we narrow down our route options and hone in on our number one contendor - Loch Muller. This has got to be it! The directions are as follows: Drive up Hoffman Road for 6 or 7 miles. There is a paved road now called Loch Muller - park at the end. Across the road there is an unmarked wooded trail. Follow it for half a mile or so into the woods. Eventually you will come to a cemetery. "It’s creepy." Enough said, I am sure this is my town.

Loch Muller - easier said than found...

We head out of Paradox and into Schroon Lake, proper, where we stop to refuel both the Bug and our bellies. We’re driving a vintage VW (sans heat) - which I have to give a shout out to as we've been cruising through the backroads of the Adirondacks & it hasn't broken down at all today!

After passing through town and Greg noting that Flanagan’s was hopping - because it’s Sunday Football (hint, hint) - we turn right onto Hoffman Road. We follow our directions to a tee, and I am amazed to find Loch Muller so easily. However, everything is backward - this can’t be my town. The path was supposed to be on our right - not our left. I’m disappointed, but I do think it’s pretty intriguing that this path is not marked in any recognizable way - maybe my memory had failed me, maybe the town was off to the left. Either way, we are here and it’s worth investigating - I do still love reading historic gravestones.

We park the Bug, and Greg gets out a neon yellow T-shirt. I seriously didn’t even realize he owned anything this obnoxiously 80s. He indulgently explains that it is hunting season and he knew we would be hiking in the woods. Obviously, I am not dressed appropriately, but I’m loud, so hopefully that counteracts my lack of glow.

It’s late afternoon as we head into the woods. The leaves are crunching under our feet, and the sunlight is coming through the overhead branches in patchwork patterns. Besides the occasional random sound in the woods that has me quickly looking around, it is mostly silent. A comfortable silence, but of course, a bit "creepy" too - thanks to my over-active imagination.

We cross a picture-perfect stream (yes, I literally took some pictures), and the path turns slightly upward. I’m beginning to wonder if we’ve taken the wrong path when a small sign appears.

It is rotting and leaning against the base of a tree: "Cemetery Loop" with an arrow directed toward the right. So, maybe it doesn’t say, "Kim’s Secret Ghost Town," but at least we’re getting somewhere. We walk on, and soon can spot the stones through the trees.

As we round a slight bend, the entrance presents itself, along with a sign of "Unmarked Graves" with a list of names. Right away, Greg notes how many children there are.

We enter the cemetery and it amazes me that this small piece of history exists tucked away so far from civilization. The stones are deteriorating, and we can’t help but note that if we were creating a Halloween scene, this would be it. The ground is uneven, and it makes me a bit uneasy as I realize that the heaves are actually, most likely, bodies in the unmarked graves. This may not be a town, but we have discovered a great piece of history.

We take the times to read the stones, or at least the ones that are still legible.

The sun is getting lower and we need to head back home. The woods are active, I hear a few odd sounds - a high pitched moan, and maybe it’s just my imagination, but I have to confirm the origins: "What was that? It’s a bird, right?" My counterpart answers with a shrug and an indifferent, "I don’t know." (For those playing along at home, that was not the right answer.)

I quicken my steps and feel a great sense of relief as I finally spot the bright blue Bug through the trees. We load up and after one failed start (yes, I almost freaked out), we are up and running.

We choose to head northwest — we don't know where our next stop will be, but we're not scared of getting lost; although often winding and narrow, Adirondack roads were built with intention. At some point we are bound to encounter a town or small village, and from there we will get our bearings through the mountains and head back home. Or, perhaps we'll finally discover my ghost town. I mean, really, how hard is it to find an abandoned town in the mountains??

The search continues…

Ready to conquer your fears of losing your way on the backroads? Discover your own ghost town? Get lost in the Schroon Lake Region this season - you never know what you might find! But, please, if you find my ghost town, write down the coordinates, send me the gps info (not that I'll be able to progam my electronics correctly), and take pictures. One day my mystery will be solved!

 

A morning of exploring in the Siamese Ponds Wilderness

The Siamese Ponds Wilderness Area is one of the largest Wilderness areas in the Adirondack Park. It extends some 24 miles north and south, 18 miles east and west, and is made up of over 114,000 acres of Forest Preserve lands. During the early 1900s logging became an important industry in the region, and most of the Wilderness area was heavily cut over. This heavy logging created a large quantity of slash and in turn caused devastating fires to tear through the region significantly impacting this natural resource. Today, the signs of forest fires are all gone and the traces of logging have pretty much disappeared. A young forest is all that remains giving the hint of logging operations some 100 years.

Height of Land Mountain (HLM) is located just south of the Essex County border in Warren County, Schroon Lake is not all that far away either. HLM resting at 3021 feet in elevation is only shaded by its taller cousin Gore Mountain that sits less than a mile to the north. Why is HLM so important to the climbing community? Well, HLM is a 3000-footer which means it makes its way onto many hikers' checklists. For example, hikers climbing the Adirondack 3000-footers and the small group who are working on the 770 (which is all the 3000-footers in the Northeast - also known as the NE770). As a hiker whose sights are set on this 3000-footer I planned to tackle this moderate climb with my wife Corenne and close climbing companion Jim “I-love-to-break-trail” Hopson. Well, I'm not actually all that sure he loves breaking trail, but he sure is darn good at doing it.

Second Pond Trailhead

Setting off for a later start on this estimated 4-mile hike we met at the intersection of Route 8 and Chatiemac Road in Johnsburg, which is roughly 30 minutes southwest of Schroon Lake. I had done some research on this mountain but found nothing supporting the opportunity for views, but we remained optimistic. We drove separately the 2-miles or so up Chatiemac Road to the trail for Second Pond. We had thought about bringing skis along just in case the Second Pond Trail was skiable, but running late as usual, we left them home. The trail, come to find out was in great shape for skiing and used quite frequently, very recently, as a matter of fact. "Oh well," we said almost like a chorus, as we strapped on our snowshoes.

We started up the trail on a whip, and Abby our four-legged hiking partner was happy to see the warm weather. She’s not a big fan of winter, but if the trail is broken or the weather is warmer, she’s all in. As we passed by Chatiemac Lake to our left we were quite surprised by the force of the wind coming off that small frozen body of water. The snow drifts were immense and to my estimation 5 feet deep. Of course we didn’t need to push through them, they were very solidly wind-packed and stomped out by previous snowshoers and skier. Game trails for deer, variant hares, and what appeared to be fox were all over and crossing at several locations where recent fallen trees have provided shelter and food.

After an initial gentle descent to the lowland we happened upon a secondary ski trail, which was not on any map I owned - I'm still unsure exactly where it goes. From here we would have to start climbing. The trail we were using would deliver us up the shoulder between Height of Land Mountain and Gore Mountain if we so chose, but we opted not to go quite that far. We could see HLM off to our left and just 0.6 miles away, as the crow flies, so we just decided to go for it. From here it would be a short bushwhack through an open hardwood forest of maple and beech saplings to the top. The snow was impressively deep, much deeper than we had anticipated. With Jim volunteering to take point for the start, I took the opportunity to snap a few pictures of the area. Corenne, stuck in the middle, would soon take lead as Jim stepped aside and I moved to the middle, Jim was now at the back resting. The snow seemed to continually get deeper with a top powder layer and a thin crust in the middle, with more powder on the bottom;we pushed through knee-deep snow on the flat areas. When we approached small depressions and steep terrain in the landscape, the snow depth increased to near waist deep molasses.

Summiting Height of Land Mountain

Soon the slopes would get very steep and we used every tree we could to help pull us up and give us added support. Now it was my turn to break trail. Wallowing through I managed to keep a solid pace for quite some time, but eventually I had to take a break and Jim jumped right on in making route to the summit. We approached some rocky terrain as we neared the plateau on the ridge, but to our disappointment there were no views from this spot. The ridge was now quite flat but we were still a quarter of a mile away from the actual top of this beast. The flatter terrain was a joy to our legs and the snow seemed to be a bit more consolidated not even reaching our knees at this point. However, when we passed through the chin hobble, the snow deepened in an unconsolidated state of waist deep powder. The good news was we could see the summit just ahead of us, rearing up in a sharp face, lined with a steep rock ledge. We would for sure have some sort of wintery view. Once we tugged our way up from balsam tree to balsam tree we stood atop the sharp summit area and found a slightly obscured view out toward the south side of Gore. This was a different view of Gore, one that doesn’t get seen too often. From this view there are no visible ski trails, and the fire tower is unseen, giving this busy mountain a sort of secluded beauty we were happy to see.

The true summit was yet about 250 feet away, through dense firs, which we broke through to stand atop Height of Land Mountain. Our descent was one of humor and speed. Of course the speed for which we tried to descend made for the humor. The track we made up was still not consolidated fully, so every few steps we would bury the front of our snowshoes a bit deeper and with the momentum of our downward retreat we would have to fight the urge to plummet forward. We did, on occasion, find ourselves rolling on our backs and fighting the snow to right ourselves again; the trail was a delight to finally stand upon. We exited the final portion of this adventure in prime fashion and looked forward to visiting the new Paradox brewery and grabbing a bite in Schroon Lake on the way home.

 

Let’s talk about finding a sense of solitude.

 

I’m used to spending my time among the higher peaks of the region. I love the mountains, but so do lots of other people. That’s generally OK, but sometimes I want something different, something that feels more remote.

 

For years I’ve seen the pictures of a place called Pharaoh Lake Wilderness Area. I’ve drooled over the Milky-Way-splashed night sky, the forested shores, and the maps detailing the trails that crisscross the area’s 46,283 acres. This summer, I decided it was time to visit.

 

Planning

Since this was our first trek into Pharaoh Lake Wilderness Area, I figured we’d camp next to the lake it’s named after. That decision was easy enough; now for the fun part — planning. I love poring over the maps, calculating mileage and elevation changes, and picking the best route. This area is perfect for that. There are a dozen ways to approach Pharaoh Lake — some more direct than others — that are accessible from the many parking lots dotting the area’s perimeter.

 

The shortest route, the Pharaoh Lake Trail, approaches the narrow outlet of the waterbody from the south in 3.3 miles. I decided against this, as I was more excited to spend time on the much wider northern portion of the lake. At 441 acres, Pharaoh Lake is one of the largest in the Adirondacks, and since it’s in a designated Wilderness Area the shore is void of houses. That sounded perfect, because I wanted to gaze across open water beneath a starry sky.

 

After some deliberation, I chose to approach from the northwest, a 5-mile route that climbs slowly to a height of land at the base of Pharaoh Mountain before descending to the northernmost tip of the lake, where there are several primitive camp sites available on a first-come, first-served basis.

 

A road less traveled

My wife, Anna, and I left Saranac Lake in the morning and took Route 73 to the highway. On the way, we passed lines of cars parked near some of the region’s most popular trails. It was the beginning of a nice summer day, and the mountains were already busy.

 

We hopped on Interstate 87, heading south, and took Exit 28 toward Schroon Lake. We met our friend Gabe at a gas station and headed south along Route 9, then took the first left on Alder Meadow Road. After a few miles the road forks — we veered left onto Crane Pond Road.

 

The road became hard-packed dirt and we soon reached the parking area and trailhead. The road does continue past this so it’s possible to shave a mile or so off the hike, but I don’t recommend this unless you have a high, four-wheel drive vehicle that can handle mud, big rocks, and deep trenches.

 

Into the wild

I can’t say enough good things about Pharaoh Lake Wilderness Area, so I’ll just outline my favorite parts. The dirt road climbed gently from the lot, running parallel to a raging stream at the base of the hill we were skirting. Through the trees we could see rapids and waterfalls as walked. After more dirt road — and more uphill — we were delivered to a stunning wetland area with open water in its center. Dragonflies darted in front of us and birds called from every direction. Then came Crane Pond and its beautiful outlet, which is crossed on a well-constructed wooden bridge.

After a little more climbing and some twists and turns, we saw a sign for Pharaoh Mountain. There were a couple more small ponds, each different and each stunning, that provided the perfect excuse to rest. At the first one, our pause was greeted by a great blue heron, which skirted the water’s surface as it flew along the far shore.

It was up and up again, this time along the wildlife-rich Glidden Marsh, before we descended to our destination. The lake was everything I expected it to be — open, blue, and remote. We only saw a couple of small hiking groups on our way in, something the mostly-vacant campsites echoed.

Out of site

I dropped my pack and eagerly explored a few camping options before discovering one situated on a piece of forest that juts into the lake. It’s probably the most idyllic campsite I’ve seen in the Adirondacks. As we set up camp, a couple of cedar waxwings made their presence known by flitting about on their creamy-gray-colored wings. That was how the rest of the evening went. We startled a sunbathing garter snake, saw another great blue heron, and watched as a beaver left its cove, which bordered our campsite, and made a beeline toward some destination across the lake.

 

The loons arrived around sunset and delighted us with their calls, and shortly after sundown I watched the biggest moth I’ve seen awkwardly make its way along the shore. The next morning I was up shortly after sunrise. I jumped into the lake, swam around for a bit, then made a cup of coffee. A loon family that included two little loonlings swam by not 20 feet from where I sipped my coffee as a pileated woodpecker drummed in the distance. The forest’s day shift was just waking up, and I was in heaven.

Instead of climbing Pharaoh Mountain, we enjoyed the campsite for a few hours before packing out. We will be back, after all, and the mountain could wait. There’s something to be said for finding peace and a sense of solitude, and we were all perfectly content seizing the moment before returning to the rigors of adulthood.

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Schroon Lake is close to Pharaoh Lake Wilderness Area, making it an ideal stop after a backpacking adventure. Go swimming at the public beach then have dinner. If you need more ideas, check out these sample itineraries.

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