“Hey honey, the forecast says severe thunderstorms this evening. What do you want to do?”

“Let’s go to Schroon Lake for dinner and ice cream.”

“Sounds good!”

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This may not be how normal Friday conversations go in your house, but that’s often how things work around ours. With three kids in tow, we’ve learned that there will always be reasons to not go on an adventure. Sometimes you just have to take the plunge.

So we piled the kids into the car and set off for Schroon Lake. It’s just a short hour-long drive from where we live, which was plenty of time for the baby to fall asleep, the two older kids to start fighting, and my wife and I to have a nice conversation about the black market value of a couple of bickering children. Just kidding.

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As we rolled into Schroon Lake the rain subsided and we were able to beat the dinner rush at Pitkin's Restaurant. Things were already looking up! We settled in to our table and began looking over the menus. My wife and I decide to try the Friday fried fish special, and our daughter got the hamburger. Our son, a notoriously picky eater, got the ribs. That’s right. Ribs. I almost canceled my order because I assumed that I'd just finish the ribs for him. Luckily, I didn’t because there wasn’t much left! The food at Pitkin's is phenomenal and it comes out fast, which is important if you have young kids.

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After dinner we strolled Main Street checking out the cool shops like Pine Cone Mercantile. This was to prepare us for the next essential Adirondack stop: ice cream!

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On the word of one of the shop owners we headed across the Schroon Lake to the Adirondack General Store to try out their soft serve ice cream and homemade ice cream sandwiches. The drive was pleasant, but we agreed that next time we should see about renting a boat to cross the lake. The Adirondack General Store's ice cream was delicious but the homemade ice cream sandwiches were out of this world.

This evening just goes to show that even when the weather isn’t ideal, Schroon Lake is still the best place to be!

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If you're hanging out at the Schroon Lake beach, there's a closer ice cream destination. Stewart’s Shops are a chain of convenience stores with dozens of locations in the Adirondacks. Besides having reliable gas prices, you know the shop will be clean, well-stocked, and friendly. You can get breakfast, lunch, and dinner there plus a solid cup of coffee.

Stewart’s Shops are also always stocked full of their own specially made ice cream. Long freezers contain pints and half gallons of dozens of specialty flavors. My personal favorite is the raspberry fudge tort (which the baby also loved!). My son opted for a dish of mint cookie crumble and my daughter chose rainbow sherbet. My wife is loving the new Crazy Coconut flavor! Schroon Lake’s Stewart’s is located right next to their amazing beach, so grab a cone and dig your toes into the sand.

Schroon Lake is well equipped for your next family outing. Hit the beach, go out to eat, and check out a fun summertime event!

 

Walk through the campus of the Seagle Music Colony and you’ll be met with the beautiful strains of sopranos and baritones drifting across the summer air from all directions. There are myriad rehearsal spaces at this intense vocal training camp, a piano in nearly every nook and cranny, and the performers definitely make use of all of them.

The Seagle Festival is the oldest summer vocal training programs in the country, and it’s highly prestigious. The Colony brings 32 “Young Artists,” as they call them, from throughout the U.S., and sometimes internationally, to Schroon Lake for the summer, and they work nearly nonstop while they’re here. Their ages range from their late teens to their late 20s, and the Seagle Music Colony tries to act as a conduit to helping them reach the next level of their performing career, no matter what career stage they are currently in.

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Intensive vocal training

In the mornings, a few performers do a mock audition, dressing up and going through the motions of a real audition in front of all their peers and instructors. Then they are critiqued on everything — their clothes, greeting, head shots, how they moved, and every aspect of their voice. So although each singer only does a handful of mock auditions, they see and learn from their peers’ auditions as well. When they leave, they are basically audition machines.

After mock auditions, they break off into different rehearsals, one for each of the various performances the group is working on, plus optional time for individual work. Then everyone breaks for lunch for an hour, but some of the performers end up eating and then heading to a piano to rehearse before the break ends. Then they’re in rehearsal until dinner, with an hour and a half break, and then more rehearsal until 10:30 p.m.

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And besides all the structured rehearsal time, the elite instructors who train them are willing to spend time outside of rehearsals working individually with each vocalist, late at night or early in the morning, whenever they need it.

Instructors also spend a lot of leisure time with the performers as well, forming strong, lasting bonds. They tell the Young Artists stories about their professional pasts, giving the students insight into a difficult industry that they might not get elsewhere, and they are open to answering any questions the students might have.

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The cast and crew put together four mainstage productions, plus a handful of other concerts and reviews throughout the season — a pretty compressed schedule, for anyone who has ever worked on a musical or opera before. The program always includes both musical theater and opera, which is rare in the vocal training world. But the Seagle staff want to make sure that their performers have the best chance to get jobs beyond their time in Schroon Lake, so they help them develop the broadest range of skills possible.

It’s only nine weeks that the students are in Schroon Lake, but because the program is so intensive, they often come out of it looking like entirely different performers.

And it’s not just performers who learn at Seagle. Every aspect of the theater has people there learning their trade, from costumes to sets, lighting to stage management.

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One big family

Everyone lives on campus, dining and playing and working together, and everyone has a job to do around the Colony each day, helping to make meals or clean them up, or otherwise pitch in to keep things running smoothly.

By the end of each season, performers, crew members, and instructors have become one big family, and that continues throughout their careers. Whenever a former Young Artist needs help, their Seagle colleagues are there for them.

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Performances

Seagle now resides at what used to be two farms, and performances are held in a barn that’s more than a century old, converted decades ago into a theater. The organization is now working on a longterm plan that will add a new theater space, but that will be a few years down the road. For now, the barn is a challenging space with not much room backstage or in the loft, but the artists who work on each performance are creative about how they deal with those challenges. And the barn brings a quaint touch of rustic to the high-end art form that opera is often considered.

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The local community and visitors are lucky to have a number of performances open to the public throughout the summer. Prices vary for each production. Here’s the full performance schedule for this season:

Mainstage schedule:

The Most Happy Fella, a 1956 musical by Frank Loesser about a romance between an older man and a younger woman.

July 6, 7, 9 at 8 p.m.

July 8 at 2 p.m.

The Elixir of Love, or L’elisir d’amore, a comic opera by Italian composer Gaetano Donizetti first performed in 1832.

July 20, 21, 23 at 8 p.m.

July 22 at 2 p.m. ‡

Roscoe, the world premier of a new opera based on William Kennedy's acclaimed novel about Roscoe Conway, the motor of Albany's political machine who longs to retire.

Aug. 3, 4, 6 at 8 p.m.

Aug. 5 at 2 p.m. ‡

The Music Man, the classic American musical first debuting on Broadway in 1957 about a con man who brings a small town hopes of a children’s band.

Aug. 17, 18, 20 at 8 p.m.

Aug. 19 at 2 p.m.

Children's Opera: Jack and the Beanstalk, a retelling of the classic English fairy tale.

July 9 at 10 and 11:30 a.m.

Free at the Boathouse

‡ pre-show lecture 1 hour prior to curtain

Events and performances:

Community Concert

June 18 at 7:30 p.m.

Schroon Lake Central School

 

Old Friends & New

June 25 at 8 p.m.

 

Patrice Munsel Gala

July 16 at 6 p.m.

 

Seagle Music Colony Guild Luncheon

Aug. 4 at 11 a.m.

The Sagamore Resort in Bolton Landing

 

Vespers Concerts

August 14, 21 at 5 p.m.

Oscar Seagle Memorial Theatre

 

Great Songs & Great Singers

Sept. 4 at 7:30 p.m.

Oscar Seagle Memorial Theatre

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It was like stepping into an old town straight out of the Wild West.

I parked my shiny black steed in front of a sign that read "Gift Shop," but the general store is what I was after. My feet crunched on the dirt lot, and I could almost hear the sound of spurs jangling as I walked toward Gokey's Trading Post, located just off of Exit 29 on Interstate 87.

Wrangling up an auction

I moseyed onto the deck, where I saw a hint of what I was looking for — tabletops with an array of used tools and other assorted items scattered across them. I entered the store and the woman behind the counter directed me out back, where owner John Gokey was busy setting up for the weekend.
Rounding the back of the building, I found John and another man carrying a large, ornate wooden dresser, which they placed next to a dining room table. They disappeared back inside the warehouse and re-emerged with a large wooden cabinet.

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"We've been doing the auction for about 28 years," John said, wiping sweat from his brow. "We generally sell 500 to 600 lots. It's about a 3-hour sale."

John opened Gokey's in 1988, when the now-defunct Frontier Town attraction was still open. The site was a junkyard back then, but John modeled the look of his new business on the park, which closed down in 1998. The Wild West theme stayed at Gokey's, and now it's as much a unique roadside attraction as it is a place to get a great deal.

"We've had a good, strong business over the years, especially with the campers and summer visitors coming in," John said. "We used to do 25 or 30 auctions a season here, but as I get older we don't do as many."

This year, Gokey's Trading Post will play host to about nine auctions, each on a Saturday. The parking lot will be full, and visitors and locals will mingle to bid on items.

I let John get back to work and perused the items up for auction. It's the kind of stuff you buy if you're looking for something sturdy and unique to decorate your home. There are all kinds of wooden chairs, tables, and cabinets, and they're all heavy because they're made from solid wood, not particle board and glue.

Furniture isn't the only thing on sale, though. There were all sorts of oddities, like old cash registers, a canoe, statuettes, and an old-fashioned sleigh straight out of a black-and -white Bela Lugosi horror film.

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If you can't make it to a Saturday auction, there are still values to be had. I already mentioned the tables out front, and there's also a room with old lamps, appliances, and an assortment of other items in the back of the store. I bought a Tiffany-style lampshade for a mere $15 during my visit.
Gokey's also has a wide array of new items including tools, camping equipment, and the largest selection of tarps I've ever seen. Seriously. I didn't know tarps came in so many varieties.

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A stable for books

As I left Gokey's with a new lampshade under my arm, a little barn-shaped building called out to me from across the parking lot. The sign above the wide-open double doors read "Book Barn." I walked past the gift shop, which is chock-full of Adirondack-style gifts, and entered the miniature barn. The walls were lined with used books, and there was a surprisingly good selection for such small space.

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I'm a habitual reader, and I discovered several favorites among the shelves, like Jon Krakauer's "Into Thin Air," Mark Twain's "Huckleberry Finn," and Arthur C. Clarke's "2001: A Space Odyssey." There was also nonfiction, and books for kids and young adults. Gokey's is the kind of place that satisfies most visitors, and it's a great place to keep in mind if you're camping nearby and need some last-minute supplies. The prices are right, and you might just stumble upon a new lampshade you didn't know you needed.

Make the Adirondack Hub your base camp for your next mountain adventure and be sure to visit our authentic Adirondack one-stop shops. Pitch a tent at a campground, hit the trail, and visit one of our towns for dinner and shopping.

 

I'm an avid hiker who hasn't ridden a mountain bike in more than a year. Then I heard the Schroon Lake Region calling.

Just off of Exit 29 on Interstate 87 is a network of beaten paths that lie just off the beaten path. The Town of North Hudson Multiple Use Trail System is a web of trails that are perfect for walking, running, and mountain biking, especially if the latter isn't your forte.

Heading south from the Adirondacks' High Peaks Region, I found the trails by taking a right at the end of Exit 29, followed by another right on Route 9, toward Schroon Lake. The parking area is located on a service road that's a right-hand turn just a minute or so after turning on Route 9.

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Decisions, decisions

Two trail networks can be accessed from the dirt parking lot. "Trail center east" is across the road and encompasses 2.3 miles of trail, including a long singletrack loop. I opted to explore the 4.3-mile "trail center west," located on the parking area side of the road. Since the trails in this network are all between the road and the Schroon River, I decided to make the river my destination.

I grabbed a map from the kiosk and immediately saw that there is no direct path to the river. The trails wind every which way and frequently intersect each other, so there are dozens of combinations available.

I began on the West Intesection trail, which forms a rough circle that doesn't stray too far from the start. A few trails branch off of that, but I'll spare you the play-by-play. The best way to enjoy the North Hudson trails is to cruise them without much concern for direction. You'll never be far from the road, and the circular nature of the network lends itself to freeform navigation. Just be sure to heed signs that say "do not enter" and you'll be fine.

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My meandering route took me on most of the trails in the system. There were steep downhill plunges that were well-marked with a warning, winding singletrack sections, a wonderfully breezy glide through a pine forest, and a cool riverside ramble.

Since many of the paths are wide, the canopy above them is open enough to let sunlight through, which promotes wildflower growth. Among the thick grass was a profusion of pinkish spring beauties and yellow blasts of common cinquefoil. In some spots the trail was lined with lush, green sphagnum moss beds that were decorated with the pale grey-greens of reindeer and coral lichen.

River ride

I passed an impressive stand of ostrich ferns before descending steeply into a hayscented fern meadow. Dipping out of the fernage, I rounded a bend and was met by the Schroon River and a startled woodcock — a small, Kiwi bird-looking creature that finds earthworms by stomping on the ground and cocking its head to listen for their subterranean movements — which flew for cover as soon as it saw me.

The river here has a short section of fast-moving water bookended by water that's practically still. A fun drop to the bank is precluded by a sign reminding visitors that they're entering the sensitive raparian zone — the flood-prone area along streams.

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I took a break from my ride to enjoy the river, and discovered that this was a popular area. Racoon and great blue heron tracks lined the muddy beach. I rehydrated and was off, now making my way back to the trailhead.

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My travels took a detour on a spur trail to the oxbow, which wasn't what I expected. Oxbows are horseshoe- (or oxbow-) shaped lakes that used to be a sharp bend in a meandering river. The Schroon Lake Region has a lot of these waterbodies, so many that from above it looks like an enormous horse walked through the area, and the Schroon River also has plenty of future oxbow lakes along its wandering course.

The oxbow accessed from the North Hudson trails is grown in, though, so it looks like a large, marshy area that's probably a delight for birdwatchers. I didn't have my binoculars and I was eager to get back in the saddle, so I continued on. After a few rights and lefts the parking area materialized through the trees and I was back at my car. I had managed to spend a couple of hours on the trails. It was a great introduction to mountain biking in the Schroon Lake Region, and a great way to take a break from hiking and see the forest from behind a set of handlebars.

The Schroon Lake Region is a great base camp for an Adirondack adventure. Climb a cliff, hike up a mountain, or paddle the numerous waterways — it all starts in Schroon Lake!

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This week in related ADK biking news:

Gnarl. Learning lingo, shredding track

Prime pedaling

Going down, down, down

Cycle Adirondacks: a week-long adventure

MTB for beginners

Biking the backroads

Try Tupper tri

 

This past spring, my husband and I rode our motorcycles down and back up the Blue Ridge Parkway — in its entirety — as part of our trip to visit my mother in Hilton Head, S.C. It was early in the season, and we had the 400-mile scenic highway almost entirely to ourselves.

Now that warm weather has arrived, we frequent the Adirondack’s own Blue Ridge Road during our recreational travels on two wheels. And, despite its scenic beauty and popularity with those "in the know," we often have it all to ourselves, too. This is a must-ride, and a highlight of the route from Newcomb to Schroon Lake.

Here’s the route:

Depart Newcomb on 28N toward Minerva.

Shortly after passing the hamlet of Tahawus, the Blue Ridge Road (County Route 84) is on the left.

This 19-mile road is a treat — there is a mix of fun corners and wide open, scenic straightaways. One of the straight areas is near the Adirondack Buffalo Company, with outstanding views across fields to the south.

You'll share the road with a variety of other outdoor lovers. Biking in the Schroon Region is popular for a reason — it's a great base camp with a range of roads for your Adirondack adventures.

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Eventually, the road ends just after crossing under Interstate 87 in the town of North Hudson near the Yogi Bear’s Jellystone Park Campground and the former entrance to Frontier Town, (which is, incidentally, where I recently launched my kayak to paddle the Schroon River!)

The end of the road intersects with Route 9. Take a right and travel several miles, going straight at the blinking red light into Schroon Lake. It’s fun to ride through town, but I always take a short diversion to see the views of the lake, park, and beach on Dock Street.

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Dock Street loops back to Route 9. From here, one can ride the Adirondack Marathon route, which circumnavigates Schroon Lake itself, (but do it in the opposite direction compared to the runners).

Head south on Route 9 for about 8 miles, and take a left onto Schroon River Road. This soon intersects with Adirondack Road and swings around the base of the lake. Follow Adirondack Road to the hamlet of Adirondack, and take a left at the General Store to continue on Adirondack Road.

Follow this windy, rolling road all the way to the northern end of the lake and take a left onto Alder Meadow Road. This takes you back to Route 9.

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Take a right to follow Route 9 north until you arrive at the blinking red light, and take a right onto Route 74. This is a nice ride that passes Paradox Lake, and then crosses a causeway over Eagle Lake. The road ends in a long downhill with views of Lake Champlain as you descend into Ticonderoga, where Route 74 meets 9N and 22 at an intersection with a red light.

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Feel free to explore Ticonderoga, and then follow this link to the continuation of this ride into the Lake Champlain Region!

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In related ADK motorcycle news:

Riding the 'Dacks

This isn’t a secret to seasoned riders, but our resident experts will tell you that although the roads of the Adirondacks lend themselves nicely to touring by any mode of transport, exploring them by motorcycle provides the rider with an even deeper appreciation of, and connection to this pristine landscape.

Our motorbike-riding tourism marketers share some of their favorite rides (and highlight a few classic twisties) on the well-maintained roads that wind through the charming communities across the region. Follow along as they showcase one big loop in 8 segments - or choose your region du jour for a shorter spin.

 

The Newcomb-Minerva-North Hudson region offers fantastic boreal birding in the Adirondacks. This area has numerous hiking trails through boreal forest, wetlands, and marshes. Easy, roadside birding is also exciting since the main roads traverse boreal wilderness areas.

Some of the Region’s Bird Species

The sought-after boreal “trinity” species - Black-backed Woodpecker, Gray Jay, and Boreal Chickadee, attract birders to the Adirondacks year-round. The Newcomb-Minerva-North Hudson region is one of the best areas to find these species. It is also one of my favorite areas for bird guiding. On a recent tour with a couple who wanted to see a Black-backed Woodpecker, we found 6 during the morning in Newcomb and Minerva! During an early July tour with a group of women who wanted to see a Boreal Chickadee, we found fledglings just out of the nest along the northern end of the Roosevelt Truck Trail in Minerva! Like most fledglings, they lacked tails and had wavy bills. Not only did we have nice views of the Boreal Chickadees, but we were able to spend a long time watching a stationary fledgling on a branch intermittently being fed.

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Each year, I find Black-backed Woodpecker nest sites in this area and last year, many of my clients were thrilled to see a young male being fed at the nest hole by the adult male and female. Once again this year, I found a nest site right along the road, so we’ll be able to observe the young woodpeckers as they grow up.

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Other year-round species such as Red and White-winged Crossbills and Evening Grosbeaks can be found, with these species a bit easier to see during winter when the crossbills typically nest and grosbeaks are reliably visiting feeders. This past winter, a couple hundred Evening Grosbeaks could be found in the Newcomb area and Red Crossbills nested throughout this region.

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This area also hosts 20 breeding warbler species! Cape May Warblers breed along the southern end of the Roosevelt Truck Trail in mature spruce-fir forest with little understory. It is one of only a few known locations to find this species in the Adirondacks.

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With a mix of habitats, including wetlands, in the Newcomb-Minerva-North Hudson region, insect-eating flycatcher species are also abundant. Some of the flycatcher species found include: Olive-sided Flycatcher, Eastern Wood-Pewee, Yellow-bellied Flycatcher, Alder Flycatcher, Least Flycatcher, Eastern Phoebe, and Eastern Kingbird.

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Forest dwelling raptor species such as Broad-winged Hawk, Sharp-shinned Hawk, and Northern Goshawk, can also be found. Many rivers (including the Hudson and Boreas Rivers) and lakes are home to Bald Eagles, Common Loons, and waterfowl such as Common and Hooded Mergansers.

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The beautiful voices of thrushes can also be heard. Hermit, Swainson’s, and Bicknell’s Thrushes can be found at appropriate elevations.

Some of the Region’s Trails

Roosevelt Truck Trail in Minerva: This 2.5 mile long road-sized trail has fantastic, mature boreal forest. Black-backed Woodpeckers, Gray Jays, and Boreal Chickadees can be found while hiking the trail. Raptors include Barred Owl, Broad-winged Hawk, Sharp-shinned Hawk, and Northern Goshawk. Once again, a Sharp-shinned Hawk has taken up residence along the northern end of the trail. Many warbler species can be found including the rare Cape May Warbler. Yellow-bellied Flycatchers can be heard from the mossy-ground boreal forest. The long, loud song of the tiny Winter Wren is a dominant voice heard while hiking. The lovely, flute-like songs of Hermit and Swainson’s Thrushes can also be heard.

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Railroad Bed South on Route 28N in Minerva: Just a short walk south on the Minerva railroad bed leads to huge wetlands including beaver marshes and ponds on both sides of the tracks. Black-backed Woodpeckers and Boreal Chickadees can be found in the boreal forest surrounding the wetlands. Flycatcher species abound in this location including the sought after Olive-sided Flycatcher. Warblers fill the trees. In the marsh, Common Yellowthroats, Song, Swamp, and White-throated Sparrows, and many flycatcher species are active.

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Hewitt Eddy Trail in Minerva: This foot-path leads through boreal forest and links to the scenic Boreas River Trail for a possible loop hike. Black-backed Woodpeckers and Boreal Chickadees can be found, along with many other woodpecker and warbler species.

Vanderwhacker Mountain Trail in Minerva: The first mile of the trail (on relatively level terrain) is wonderful for birding with mixed forest and wetland habitats. Many warbler species can be found including Canada Warblers. After the first half-mile, two large marshes dominate the next half-mile. Olive-sided Flycatchers can be found in these beaver-created wetlands.

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Cheney Pond-Lester Flow Trail in Minerva: This is a popular cross-country ski trail in winter, but it can also be hiked in spring, summer, and fall. There are Common Loons on Cheney Pond and Boreal Chickadees along the trail to Lester Flow.

Adirondack Interpretive Center (AIC) Trails in Newcomb: There is a network of scenic trails at the Newcomb AIC. The trails wind through mixed forest habitat with White Cedars and along lakes. Common Loons and many warbler and sparrow species can be found. Make sure you check the AIC bird feeders too!

These are just a few of the many hiking trails in this region, but you may find a favorite road-side birding location too. (I’ve found many!)

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New York State recently purchased the 20,758 acre Boreas Ponds Tract in North Hudson, so stay tuned for lots more birding opportunities in this beautiful region!

If you visit this boreal wilderness, there are many wonderful lodging and restaurant options nearby!

There's always something going on in Schroon Lake, but in the summer the arts come to the forefront. The region is filled with artistic talent in a wide range of media, especially music, which is one of the cornerstones of the Schroon Lake Region both historically and today.

Music, music, and more music

The Seagle Music Colony is the oldest summer music school in America, and the talent on display in their regular summer performances is amazing. Musicals and light opera are both offered on the Seagle schedule.

The shows begin in late June with Old Friends and New, Seagle's traditional season-opening night. The not-to-be-missed kickoff includes all 32 of the school's young artists. It's followed by a reception where the public can meet the singers.

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Continuing throughout the summer, the performance schedule starts off with The Most Happy Fella, Frank Loesser's original romantic Broadway musical, which tells the story of an unlikely love that blooms in the Napa Valley.

The Jack & the Beanstalk children's opera takes to the stage in The Boathouse Theatre in downtown Schroon Lake for two morning shows on July 9 at 10 and 11 a.m. But that's just the beginning! Don't miss The Elixir of Love, Roscoe, The Music Man, or any other Seagle Music Colony performances this summer.

Summer kickoff

Every Memorial Day weekend, Schroon Lake throws open the doors to welcome summer during Opening Weekend-Schroon Lake. Help get summer rolling as everyone celebrates with vendors, live music, free yoga, restaurant and retail specials, and lots more. Come help celebrate the arrival of summer!

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Adirondacks artists and crafters

Nothing says you care more than an authentic piece of Adirondack art. Some of our best artists and crafters converge on Schroon Lake on July 16 for the 47th annual Arts & Crafts Fair.
This event has long-standing roots in the community and it shows — 47 years and counting is a long time. It attracts more than 100 vendors to the town park, which overlooks the public beach and lake.

Profits from the event go to the Schroon Lake Association for the protection and preservation of the lake. Shop and find great crafts, and help maintain the pristine beauty of this most magnificent of lakes.

Cycle Adirondacks

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In what many have described as the best ride of their lives, Cycle Adirondacks kicks off its second year of citizen cycling through the Adirondacks.

This year, Cycle Adirondacks will skirt the edge of the Schroon Lake Region during its first and second legs on August 20 and 21. There's no better way to begin or end this awesome tour of the Adirondacks than a stay in Schroon Lake, and after the long ride you'll certainly deserve it. Why not plan on spending a couple of relaxing days with us? Check out our lodging options and book early!

First it was private, then it was purchased by The Nature Conservancy, and now it’s owned by New York state. That’s the history, in a compressed fashion, of the Essex Chain Lakes.

About 8 years back, while the land was still in the hands of TNC, I was invited to take a tour of the lakes themselves. Of course I made every possible effort to go, but this time the destination was a bit different and that would bring me and a buddy, Brandon, back to Cedar Mountain. It's one of those peaks I've wanted to climb for quite some time, I think mainly due to its name and my curiosity as to whether or not it is in fact a mountain covered in cedars.

The access roads back in the Chain Lakes Region are closed for vehicles in the winter. That delayed my visit until just last week, when the “roads closed” sign was finally taken down. The dirt roads located south of Goodnow Flow are rough. If your car has any loose parts they would surely be rattled free along the way, especially if you think a higher rate of speed is a good idea. The roads back in there are also like a maze, and none of them have signs marking the way to a specific destination. We passed by two that were gated, and one that was blocked with boulders, and continued to drive up the ungated option. Something in my mind just didn’t feel right, and the rudimentary road map I was using was not much assistance.

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We decided to use GPS to navigate the roads, but both of ours seemed to spin nearly out of control. It was odd. First it put Cedar in front of us, then it put it behind us, then it eventually showed us going in the wrong direction. We needed to walk along one of the gated roads, so we turned around. About 200 feet back down the road the GPS said it was behind us again, so we turned around. Then, as if in some sort of twisted, real life “Groundhog Day,” the GPS pointed us back once again.

Eventually we got a lock on the roads, turned around for a third time, and came to the conclusion that we needed to walk the last gated road we came to. Once we broke free of the road the GPS started to work like normal and we could understand where we were. Unfortunately, this road was not yet open to traffic, and rightly so — the sand was still a bit soft. That would be OK, as the hike would now be more than a 1-mile wander, but a 4-mile round-trip stroll.

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Oh spring, where have you been? It felt so good to not hike in layers, but now with rolled up sleeves. But the black flies we could still do without. They were not too bad along the road, even as we passed by several obvious wet areas, but we knew the second band of reinforcements would be coming soon in the form of mosquitos, and then the heavy cavalry, the deer flies, but that would be later in June. Honestly, they're not too bad, as long as you're prepared. Plenty of local shops sell locally made bug repellants, so be sure to pick some up before venturing into the woods.

Many areas along the road were set up as camping locations, and even a couple of parking areas were marked, but they didn’t appear to be used yet. Perhaps the state was still doing up the finishing touches prior to a launch.

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Eventually the road started to climb along the shoulder of Cedar Mountain. Soon it was just circumnavigating the peak, gaining us nothing, so we headed into the woods and started along the steep northwestern slopes. The forest was open for the majority of the trek but the ground, especially where it was rock, was slippery, slowing the pace just a bit.

As we neared the summit we started to encounter more red spruce scratching at our bare skin, but it didn’t last long as the trees thinned out near the summit ridge. The last push was very steep as we were delivered atop a wooded, defined summit. There were OK views through the trees but that wouldn’t get us down. We wandered around the summit ridge and found a few decent views through the trees of the High Peaks and even as far as Blue Mountain off of one side. The tower on Vanderwhacker and Goodnow mountains were rising high, giving us a trifecta of fire towers around us.

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We now descended from the cedar fortress — oh, did I mention, there wasn’t one cedar tree on this mountain? Maybe Cedar is a surname, or maybe all of the cedars were harvested since the naming of the mountain. I guess a bit of research would be necessary to find the answer, research for I have yet to dive into, research that may not lead to any definitive answers.

The exit from our wanderlust got us back to the car in prime fashion, and we could now open the car windows to feel a cool breeze on this hot day and blow away the black flies coating what hair I have left.

If hiking Cedar Mountain doesn't quench your thirst for adventure, there are plenty of activities in the Schroon Lake Region that will! Go whitewater rafting, try rock climbing, explore the roads and woods by bike, or take to the waterways by canoe or kayak.

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In the Adirondacks, the past and present are intertwined.

The remnants of old logging camps peek out from under decaying leaves, which provide nutrients for new forest growth. Old buildings lean alongside our winding roads, while the tools used to build them are on display in state-of-the-art museums here.

The wilderness itself boasts a varied landscape where the past and present collide with dizzying force: Landslides carve new paths on steep slopes, revealing ancient rock. Young red maples sprout from cracks in the crumbling stone fences and walls that decorate the backcountry. The forest reclaims its own.

There is no better place to walk through this heritage than the difficult and 10.3-long hike from the Upper Works trailhead to the summit of Mount Marcy. Where else can you see a ghost town, the site of a fatal accident, the place where a former vice president embarked upon a midnight ride, and the top of the highest mountain in New York state all in one hike?

The trek begins on the outskirts of Newcomb. Take Exit 29 off of Interstate 87 and head west on Blue Ridge Road for 17.5 miles, then turn right on Tahawus Road. After 6.5 miles, bear left onto Upper Works Road.

Blast from the past

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The first stop along the tour happens before you even leave your vehicle. As you drive along Upper Works Road, you'll soon come to a real-life ghost town. This is Adirondac, an old mining town that was once booming with activity.

In the 1939, National Lead bought the mining operation from the McIntyre Iron Company, then rented the 30 vacant Tahawus Club cabins that were on the property to its employees. Those homes comprised Adirondac, and the neighboring mining town was called Tahawus.

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The mining industry hit a boom when World War II started in 1939, and things were great in the Adirondack mining communities. The people in the bustling little towns even kept things lively with friendly competition that emerged in summertime softball games, a scene straight out of a Norman Rockwell painting. When iron ore and titanium were discovered under Tahawus in 1963, the town and its people were literally moved to get at it. Houses were jacked up, loaded onto flatbed trucks, and transported to nearby Newcomb, where many still remain today.

In 1964, National Lead higher ups decided it was time to get out of the landlord business, so the people of Adirondac were also relocated to Newcomb. Their houses stayed put, and the now-abandoned buildings are open for exploration. Take some time to wind through the once-beautiful homes, where trees now stand in place of furniture and the scuttling of animals is more frequently heard than the stomping of feet.

There are other remnants of the mining operation to discover there too, like the enormous stone blast furnace. Cold, tall, and dark, it remains as a silent testament to a bygone era.

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An upper workout and a calamity

 

Once you've finished exploring Adirondac, continue down Upper Works Road, park at the Upper Works trailhead, and head toward Mount Marcy and the Flowed Lands. You'll follow an old logging road, cross the beautiful Calamity Brook on an impressive suspension bridge, and ascend to the edge of the Flowed Lands at 4.7 miles.

Before reaching the Flowed Lands, take care to follow the side path that leads off to the left. It goes 60 feet to the shore of Calamity Pond and the Henderson monument, which memorializes an accident that occurred here 170 years ago.

As the story goes, David Henderson was searching for a water source to power the blast furnaces at the iron works when he accidentally shot himself and died on this spot. The inscription on the monument reads:
"This monument, erected by filial affection to the memory of our dear father, David Henderson, who accidentally lost his life on this spot, 3rd September, 1845."

After the monument you'll soon come to the Flowed Lands, a gorgeous spot where mountains seem to rise from the surface of the water. There are several desirable lean-tos and campsites along the shore, but be forewarned: If you decide to camp here, a bear canister is not a recommendation, it's a necessity.

If you're doing this trip as a day hike, it's best not to linger too long as there are still 5.5 miles of climbing left to reach the top of Marcy. If you do camp, make the half-mile side trip to Hanging Spear Falls. It's worth it.

Marcy bound

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Follow the edge of the Flowed Lands, cross the bridge over Lake Colden Dam, and turn right at the trail register to follow the rugged and scenic Opalescent River toward Mount Marcy. At about 8 miles from the parking area, turn right to begin the long, steep climb to the summit. It's uphill all the way from here on out, so make sure you have enough water or a reliable water filter.

Lake Tear and the midnight run

 

After hiking 9.2 miles and climbing 2,700 feet from the parking area, you'll come to a small, secluded body of water called Lake Tear of the Clouds. At 4,346 feet in elevation, it's the highest pond source of the Hudson River. The rocky dome of Marcy rises behind the pond, and it looks deceptively close even though there's still about 1,000 feet in elevation to go.

The end is in sight, but take a minute to consider the history of this place. On Sept. 14, 1901 then-Vice President Theodore Roosevelt was at Lake Tear after summiting Marcy. It was there that he received a message that President William McKinley — who was shot a couple of weeks prior but was expected to recover — was dying.

Roosevelt made haste to Tahawus, then took a 40-mile midnight stagecoach ride to North Creek, where he learned McKinley had died. Roosevelt boarded a train for Buffalo and was sworn in as president there.

Summit fever

 

After leaving Lake Tear, you'll soon come to a four-way junction. Straight descends into the wild and remote depths of Panther Gorge, right goes to the summit of Skylight, the fourth highest mountain in the Adirondacks, and left goes to the top of Marcy.

As you leave the forest and enter the moonscape-like alpine zone of the mountain, take care to avoid the vegetation there by staying on the rocks. Many of the plants here are rare and incredibly fragile, so all it takes is a misplaced hiking boot to kill them. Great efforts have been made by the Adirondack Mountain Club's summit stewards to revegetate and protect alpine zones in the region. Please respect their work and gently enjoy this unique ecosystem.

The final pitch of Marcy is a steep, wonderfully open climb to the 5,344-foot elevation mark. The mountain was named after former New York state Gov. William Marcy, who authorized an environmental survey to explore the area in the 19th century. The first recorded ascent of the mountain was August 5, 1837.

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The view from the top of Mount Marcy is one of the best anywhere. The surrounding topography bears evidence of the geologic forces which created this region, the plants growing between the rocks serve as living relics of the last glacier's retreat, and plaques bolted to the anorthosite grantie speak to the recent, but no less compelling, history of human involvement in the area. It's a lot to take in. Oh, and there are mountains, lakes, and forests stretching in every direction.

After your hike, why not grab a bite to eat and rent a room to relax in for the night John Brown lives.

A bison herd is a peculiar site in the eastern United States, but in the Adirondacks anything is possible.

Take Exit 29 off of Interstate 87 and drive west, toward Newcomb, for about 4 miles. Just after the Branch River leaves your side, the evergreen-laden forest opens to reveal about 40 bison in a large pasture — that's the Adirondack Buffalo Company's herd.

Two hundred years ago, it wasn't strange to see the animals scattered across the American landscape. The massive ungulates dominated the terrain from Central New York through the Midwest, and north into Alaska.

Early European settlers brought the species, which once boasted about 60 million individuals, to the brink of extinction. Old sepia-toned photographs of house-sized piles of bison skulls grant perspective to the magnitude of the slaughter, which decreased the animal's numbers to about 300 by 1900.

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Bison have since made a slow and steady comeback, and now their population is a few hundred thousand. That's not bad for an animal the International Union for Conservation of Nature called a "conservation dependent species." Their range isn't close to what it used to be, but the threat of extinction has mostly dissipated.

The historical range of bison never extended into these mountains, but the beasts — the deceptively placid and gentle-looking creatures — look right at home against the Adirondack backdrop.

An open plain is rare in these parts, and this one is bordered by two fences. The double fence serves two purposes: The tall inside fence keeps the bison from escaping, and the shorter outside fence keeps people from getting too close to the bison. The height of the inside fence isn't an accident. The 1,400-pound animals can run 40 miles an hour and jump about 6 feet high.

"People don't have a concept of how strong and fast they are," Dorreen Ossenkop said. "They think they're these big, ponderous animals. Oh, no. They'll outsprint a quarter horse."

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Dorreen and her husband, Steve, opened the Adirondack Buffalo Company in 1990. Standing in the gift shop, which overlooks the bison arena, Dorreen said she's seen the animals in action. One day, a particularly determined female decided the grass looked better on the other side of the fence, so she leaped over it. Steve set about making the fence higher, and the next day Dorreen watched as the same bison slowly surveyed the perimeter.

"She walked all the way around until she found one spot where there was no extra board, and she did it again," Dorreen said.

Steve was born and raised on a dairy farm, but he was always fascinated by bison. About 25 years ago, the couple decided to go for it. They wanted something different, and that's what they got — the creatures are intelligent, curious, and surprisingly agile.

"Most animals will pivot on their front feet or back feet; buffalo will pivot on any foot," Dorreen said. "I have on two occasions seen them get startled by something, and they jump up in the air, and when they hit the ground running they're facing in the opposite direction. They're like a cat. They do it so fast you can barely see the movement."

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Once bison put some distance between themselves and whatever startled them, they turn to face it. That's when they determine whether to ignore, flee, or attack. One of the times Dorreen saw this play out, the bison picked the first option and went about their business. The offending animals were Canada geese that broke into a hissing, honking fit when the inquisitive bison wandered too close.

A herd of bison is not a random assortment of animals. There's a social hierarchy that determines which individual gets the best resources available. If the dominant female likes the look of a spot another bison is lounging in, it will yield to her when she approaches. The dominant female also gets first dibs on food, and when she's finished she'll move on to the next best batch, leaving whatever's left of the first for whoever's next in the pecking order.

In nature, those lower on the ladder could go hungry. The Ossenkops can't let that happen — they have a business to run — so everyone eats.

When the animals are old enough they're sent away to be processed, and the meat is sold at the shop, along with things like jams, pies, cookies, sauces, quilts, furniture, books, and dairy products. It's a smorgasbord of mostly Adirondack-themed items and just like the bison, most of it is produced locally.

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In the summer, there's even a display straight out of a farmers' market that's loaded with fresh produce.

Dorreen explained that the Adirondack Buffalo Company is more than a bison farm — it's a place where local artisans can sell their wares and where visitors can observe the curious creatures from a safe distance.

The Adirondack Buffalo Company is conveniently located on the way to other regional delights. Stop by the next time you decide to hike, paddle, or attend an event in the Schroon Lake Region.