As many environmental philosophers have asked before us, “what do we think about when we think about wilderness?” By definition, wilderness in the Adirondacks “is in contrast with those areas where man and his own works dominate the landscape, is an area where the earth and its community of life are untrammeled by man - where man himself is a visitor who does not remain.” That juxtaposition, between man and nature, is what has shaped the wilderness identity in the Adirondacks. And perhaps no better example of that positioning exists than the Hoffman Notch Wilderness.

Bound on the east by the Northway, the Hoffman Notch Wilderness abruptly stops on one side at a 4-lane highway. This means that each year, thousands of travelers heading north or south pass very close to this tract of land, most likely not even realizing how close they are to wilderness. The same story goes for those travel east or west on Blue Ridge Road.

If you want to experience the Hoffman Notch Wilderness beyond a fleeting glance from a car window, there are a few easy ways!

But first! Get to know the land

The Hoffman Notch Wilderness is not the biggest wilderness area in the Adirondacks, but what it lacks in size, it makes up for in fascinating history, incredible forests, and outstanding opportunities for exploration. In total, it’s 38,234-acres. That seems like a lot, but it’s only a fraction of the size of the nearby High Peaks Wilderness. To really drive home how wild this place is, there are only 15-miles of established trails in the entire Hoffman Notch Wilderness. 

Human history

For better or worse, we can’t tell the story of a wilderness without studying human interaction with the land. Here are some short stories:

• In the late 1890s, Warren’s Inn (originally known as the Bailey Pond Inn) was built at the end of the road at Loch Muller. The Inn was popular with outdoor enthusiasts. Unfortunately, Warren’s Inn was destroyed in a fire.
• Several tanneries were located in the vicinity of the present-day Hoffman Notch Wilderness. It’s suspected that they took hemlock trees from the forests here. One tannery was estimated to consume hemlock bark at five thousand cords per year.
• The Durgin family had property in the northwest portion of the Hoffman Unit and today Durgin Brook bears their name.
• In 1967, a ski mountain was proposed on Hoffman Mountain after amendments to the NYS Constitution allowed for the construction of Whiteface and Gore. By a margin of 3-to-1 NYS voters voiced opposition to this proposal and the ski mountain never came to fruition.
• Hudson River School painter Thomas Cole painted View of Schroon Mountain, Essex County, New York, After a Storm likely from a location in the present-day Hoffman Notch Wilderness. (Schroon Mountain to Cole is what we know today as Hoffman Mountain.)
• Logging (and fires) played an important role in this area, and evidence of that is readily found.

Naturally interesting

Perhaps even more compelling are short stories of the natural history here:

• The area is named for the valley (or “notch”) between the Blue Ridge Range and the Washburn Ridge.
• Elevation in the Hoffman Notch Wilderness ranges from around 900-ft above Mean Sea Level on the parcels near Schroon Lake up to 3,693-ft above Mean Sea Level on Hoffman Mountain.
• Several areas, including the area around Big Pond, sustained severe blowdown damage during Hurricane Irene in 2011.
• Due to several factors, native self-sustaining populations of brook trout have been all but eliminated in the Hoffman Notch Wilderness.
• Most of the waterbodies are located within a mile from the road.
• There are not any major rivers within the Wilderness, except for a small section of the Boreas River, which is only within the wilderness boundary for a small distance in the northwest corner.

Hiking, snowshoeing, and cross-country skiing

So now that you have a better grasp of the history here, it’s time to get out and explore! With relatively short trail-miles available, there are plenty of options for bushwhacking or off-trail travel, but those types of adventures are best left to those with map/compass experience and can confidently navigate the backcountry without marked trails. That said, the established trails here offer a range of destinations that can please everyone.

Mount Severance

This relatively short and easy climb leads to great views of Schroon Lake and the neighboring Pharaoh Lake Wilderness. To access this mountain and the Hoffman Notch Wilderness, you have to hike through a tunnel under the Northway!

Bailey Pond

Coming in at less than 1-mile to the pond, this is a great outing for someone looking to dip their toes in wilderness hiking. Plus, the view at Bailey Pond is incredible. If you are up for off-travel navigation, a herd path continues to Marion Pond.

Hoffman Notch Trail

The Hoffman Notch Trail extends 7.4 miles between north and south trailheads. This trail leads through the notch and is not widely traveled, leaving you ample opportunities to find solitude. In winter, it would be a great end-to-end cross-country ski tour if you have two vehicles.

Big Pond

Extending almost 6-miles to an intersection, the Big Pond Trail can be used to facilitate a longer trip or for a shorter ramble just to the namesake pond. Just a mellow jaunt to Big Pond is great for hiking, cross-country skiing, or snowshoeing.

North Country Scenic Trail

While still in the works, the planned North Country Scenic Trail will have 12.5-miles in the Hoffman Notch Wilderness.

Get wild!

No matter what season you visit the Adirondack Hub, the Hoffman Notch Wilderness is ready for exploration! Outdoor expertise is welcome in wilderness, but not required for enjoyment. Wilderness is a place to make unforgettable memories with family and friends or find solitude for yourself. However, preparation is key. Whether you’re out hiking, snowshoeing, rock climbing, cross-country skiing, or fishing, remember to Love Your ADK and pledge to protect the Adirondacks so that future generations can continue to enjoy the wild places found here. There’s a lot of wilderness to explore in the Adirondack Hub, so stay for a few days to fill your trip with adventure. Just don’t forget to grab a bite to eat along the way. You don’t want to go into the wild hungry!

A Season of Change

It is always a welcome sign of spring when birds begin to return to the Adirondacks. At this time of year, each day brings new arrivals along with their beautiful songs. Just this morning, an American Robin sang at dawn outside our home. Spring is a fascinating season of change in the avian world. Year-round birds change their behavior as they get ready to nest, many of our winter irruptive species are still here (not quite ready to leave yet), migrants are returning, and some are just passing through on their way north.

Winter Lingerers

Some winter visitors leave in March, while some can be found staying into May before returning north.

Bohemian Waxwing flocks roam around eating fruit well into April before heading off on their long journey to northwestern North America. Fruit trees in Newcomb were a magnet for this species with many flocks observed this past season.

Northern Shrikes, another winter visitor, will also be around well into April and they even begin to sing before heading back to their northern breeding grounds. The Northern Shrike is a predatory songbird that stabs mice through the back of the neck with its sharp bill and then impales them on thorns for storage.

On Their Way North

Some species pass through our area on their way north. American Tree Sparrows are moving through our area now. White-crowned Sparrows will be moving through soon and also sing in migration. I have already observed a couple Golden Eagles as they soared and hunted their way north. It can be exciting to observe waterfowl species as they congregate on any open water.

Spring Arrivals

Migrants begin to arrive in March, with most pouring in during April and May.

Northern New York is well known as a place to see large numbers of breeding warbler species. Warblers are colorful – the “butterflies of the bird world” and have lovely songs that fill our woodlands. Palm and Pine Warblers arrive in mid-April and later migrants, such as the Mourning Warbler, arrive in mid-May.

March arrivals include American Woodcock, Red-shouldered Hawk, Northern Saw-whet Owl, Belted Kingfisher, Northern Flicker, Chipping Sparrow, and waterfowl such as Wood and Ring-necked Ducks, Hooded Merganser, and Pied-billed Grebe.

April brings in a bigger wave of migrants that includes Wilson’s Snipe, Common Loon, American Bittern, Great Blue Heron, Osprey, Broad-winged Hawk, Yellow-bellied Sapsucker, Eastern Phoebe, Blue-headed Vireo, Tree and Barn Swallows, Winter Wren, Hermit and Wood Thrushes, Brown Thrasher, Purple Finch, Yellow-rumped Warbler, Swamp Sparrow, White-throated Sparrow (the mascot of the north!), Rusty Blackbird, and many more species.

Later spring arrivals fill-in during May and include Chimney Swift, Ruby-throated Hummingbird, Olive-sided, Yellow-bellied, Alder, and Least Flycatchers, Philadelphia and Red-eyed Vireos, Bicknell’s and Swainson’s Thrushes, Canada Warbler, Mourning Warbler, Scarlet Tanager, Lincoln’s Sparrow, and more.

Most species migrate at night. Each morning is exciting as I listen to hear the songs of species that arrived while I was sleeping.

Considered to have the most beautiful song of any North American bird, Hermit Thrushes nest in our woodlands. They return in April and their captivating song is the one that I most look forward to hearing in spring.

Year-Round Species

Our year-round species have been changing their behavior as spring progresses. Common Ravens began to build nests in late February! Black-capped Chickadees, Brown Creepers, and Golden-crowned Kinglets begin to sing, signaling the seasonal changes to come. Woodpeckers call and drum more. Ruffed Grouse start to display. Gray Jays nest in late winter and their young fledge in late April. Great Horned Owls have young already after their winter nesting season. The landscape fills with song and activity!

Great Birding Locations in Newcomb and Minerva

Tahawus Road in Newcomb

Tahawus Road is a fairly quiet back road that parallels the Hudson River and great boreal habitat. Black-backed Woodpeckers and Boreal Chickadees can be found year-round. Last year, I found a Rusty Blackbird vocalizing in breeding season by the Hudson River in perfect habitat. This species is steeply declining in population and becoming extremely difficult to find at all in the Adirondacks, so it was thrilling to find the bird last year. In addition to the boreal forest along Tahawus Road, there is also shrubby marshland. Many warbler species nest along the road.

Roosevelt Truck Trail in Minerva

This 2.5-mile long trail runs between the Blue Ridge Road and Route 28N. It is a road-sized trail on mossy ground that traverses boreal habitat. It is one of only a few known nesting locations for the beautiful Cape May Warbler. You can often find this species at the southern end of the trail by Route 28N. They prefer mature spruce-fir forests with little understory. Northern Goshawks are often observed along the trail, and the resident Gray Jays imitate them! A Sharp-shinned Hawk has been nesting toward the north end of the trail each year. I’ve found record numbers of Black-backed Woodpeckers and Boreal Chickadees along this trail. There are two different handicap-accessible camping areas midway on the trail with picnic tables and outhouses.

Railroad Bed in Minerva

Head south along the railroad bed in Minerva where it intersects Route 28N. Olive-sided Flycatchers can be found in this area in beaver created wetlands. There is a large marsh on both sides of the tracks, a pond, and boreal forest, for a wide variety of bird species. Last year, we found a Black-billed Cuckoo singing in the trees at the edge of the marsh.

Marsh along Route 28N in Newcomb

About .75 of a mile east of the Blue Ridge Road and Route 28N intersection, there is boreal marsh on both sides of the road. Alder Flycatchers and Common Yellowthroats nest here. Last year, a Black-backed Woodpecker nested at the edge of the road. Gray Jays and Boreal Chickadees are also frequently observed.

First mile of the Vanderwhacker Mountain Trail in Minerva

If you have a vehicle that can drive the rough road to the Vanderwhacker Mountain Trail parking area, the first mile is terrific for birding! The trail passes through mixed forest habitat and by two different beaver-created marshes for a wide variety of bird species including Olive-sided Flycatchers. Many lovely Canada Warblers are found nesting along the trail also. After the first mile, the trail begins a steep ascent to the summit which has a fire-tower. Birders usually turn around after a mile! If you do venture to the summit, Yellow-bellied Flycatchers and Blackpoll Warblers can be found.

Boreas River Bridge in Minerva

There is a little drive on the east side of the Boreas River Bridge to park a car. I often find Black-backed Woodpeckers and Boreal Chickadees on both sides of the river at this location. Swallow species fly around the bridge and many warbler species can be found.

Hewitt Eddy Trail in Minerva

The Hewitt Eddy Trail connects to the Boreas River Trail, but I prefer the Hewitt Eddy Trail since it is quieter. The Boreas River Trail parallels the Boreas River making it difficult to hear birds. Both trails traverse boreal forest habitat with great birds!

Cheney Pond Trail to Lester Flow in Minerva

The Cheney Pond Trail to the Lester Flow Trail is ~ 2.5 miles long and ends at the remains of the Lester Dam. Black-backed Woodpeckers, Gray Jays, and Boreal Chickadees can all be found along this trail in boreal habitat. Common Loons can be observed on Cheney Pond.

Santanoni Drive in Newcomb

This short, dead-end road runs along the open Newcomb Golf Course and great boreal forest habitat! Eastern Bluebirds nest on the golf course and Black-backed Woodpeckers and Boreal Chickadees can be found in the boreal forest between holes and along the Hudson River found at the end of the road.

Adirondack Interpretive Center (AIC) in Newcomb

Many miles of well-maintained trails can be found at the Adirondack Interpretive Center. The scenic trails pass through mixed forest, lakes, and brooks with Common Loons, Hermit Thrushes, Winter Wrens, many warbler species, Swamp Sparrows and more.

Stay tuned as more areas open to the public, including the newly acquired Boreas Ponds Tract, and hiking and canoe routes that just opened to the public along Tahawus Road! Boreal birding is fantastic in this region and there are wonderful places to stay and dine during your visit.

A Muddy Put-in

After toting my canoe down the Sucker Brook Trail at the Adirondack Interpretive Center (AIC) in Newcomb, a mucky put-in wasn’t going to stop me and Wren, my dog, from getting on the water. And Wren was more than happy to slog through the mud, seemingly taking half of Sucker Brook into the boat with her, adding to the mess by lying down in the muck she transported.

We set off on the water and began to wind our way along Sucker Brook, and I soon realized we would need to vacate the boat to get beyond a shallow set of riffles blocking our way to Rich Lake. That did give me a chance to let Wren out on a gravel bar where she could rinse off and where I could clean some of the muck out of the boat before it became worse and got all over my gear – although much of it would have to wait until we finished our paddle. Wren was happy for the chance to wade in the water and I walked the boat through the shallow stretch so we could resume our paddle, negotiating our way around the rocks on Sucker Brook, and managing to briefly get lodged on one that lay hidden just below the dark surface of the water.

Exploring Rich Lake

We began to paddle the perimeter of Rich Lake and I made a point to search for the canoe launch along the Rich Lake Trail to see if it was less muddy than the launch we had used. It looked much drier than the launch along the Sucker Brook Trail, so I made a plan to take-out there once we were finished.

My errand complete, we settled into our usual paddling routine – Wren watching the scenery or dozing, sometimes with her head on the yoke, and me on the lookout for birds on the early fall afternoon. I soon had a list of species that included Hairy Woodpecker, Great Blue Heron, Northern Flicker, Common Raven, Eastern Phoebe, and Red-eyed Vireo. Here and there small groups of Black-capped Chickadees called from the trees along the shoreline, and a Belted Kingfisher chattered as it flew from perch to perch. I also heard my first Common Loon of the trip – tallying three loons by the end of our paddle.

A short distance further along, I heard the distinctive hoots of a Great Horned Owl – a female to be precise – coming from the north side of the lake. I eased the canoe toward the shoreline and listened to the muffled hoots disturb the late afternoon air for a few minutes before I moved on.

The Beginnings of fall

I could still hear an occasional hoot on the breeze as I left the shoreline, but for the most part the trip was quiet – the mark of the onset of fall and late in the day at that. And so we began to explore the nooks along the peninsula which occupies the center of the lake, noting the trees which were beginning to change from summer green to the golds, reds, and oranges of autumn. Initially these changes are subtle, but the landscape will soon explode with vibrant colors as fall cold fronts usher in the transformation. And the shadows of afternoon which soon became the shadows of evening showed off the soft changing colors as we went.

We continued our loop of Rich Lake, listening to the calls of Common Loons and eventually passing along the beach – a great place to swim for anyone in the area. As we did so, Wren immediately sat up and sniffed the air excitedly as if her love of beaches had somehow set off an alarm in her head. She looked expectantly as the shore, leaning out of the boat toward the beach as if doing so would somehow transport her to play in the sand rather than to remain in the confines of the canoe.

But we did not stop at the beach – but began to loop back to the take-out — I didn’t want to be caught on the water in the dark. As we looped back, we again passed the hooting Great Horned Owl and this time I could hear both the male and female owls dueting – announcing that this patch of forest was their territory. Once again I paused to listen as they punctuated the quiet air with their hoots.

As planned, I returned to the take-out along the Rich Lake Trail and I was happy that it was not nearly as mucky as where we had put-in. I unloaded my gear and tramped back to the car, returning for the boat which I first rinsed out before toting it up the trail. Anyone launching a boat from the AIC will need to be aware that any put-in requires a carry – so it might be helpful to bring along a lightweight boat or a muscular friend.

The hard work of the carry over, I lashed the boat back onto the car and we set off in search of a place to camp for the night.

Fall offers great opportunities for paddling and outdoor exploration. Plan your trip today and check out our lodging and dining pages to learn more.

Editor's note: Every winter visitors are invited to participate in three unique Camp Santanoni Winter Weekends. As we are quickly coming up on the second one of the season, we thought it appropriate to rerun this blog that details with first-hand accounts what you can expect to encounter on one of these family-friendly weekends. (Originally published: February 2017)

---

It's a history museum, a unique winter trek, and a social occasion like no other. It's a Camp Santanoni Winter Weekend.

Camp Santanoni is a famous Great Camp/Farm Complex that has become a unique backcountry attraction. Now known as Camp Santanoni Preserve, it hosts three winter weekend events where people can ski in, enjoy the many activities, and celebrate an extraordinary Adirondack landmark.
I found a couple of friends who have made these weekends a regular part of their winter activities.

The Carriage Road

The aptly named Carriage Road is the only clear access to Camp Santanoni. It starts at the Gatehouse, and runs approximately five miles to the Main Camp. This trail is on gently rolling terrain, considered an easy ski for anyone with more than beginner cross-country skills. Even children participate, as attendee Tate makes clear:

Our family loves cross-country skiing. The first year we skied into Camp Santanoni as a family was when my son was five years old. We knew that he probably wouldn't make it the whole 10-mile trip and had a plan for that. The great thing about doing the Newcomb Lake Road into the great camp is the variety for a kid, and the interesting things along the way as you head to the camp. The kids anticipated the farm complex and then were on the lookout for bridges and trail signs. As we told them about different things along the way they were engaged, beyond just kicking, and gliding. This combined with a wide gentle trail and lots of other skiers allowed for a fun time.

A young skier sets out on the Carriage Road. Tate had a backup plan for little ones who might tire more easily than the adults:

Having a chance to duck into the warm artist studio for a lunch break was great for warming up and chatting with folks. That first year we pulled pulk sleds in with sleeping pads and bags. The kiddos enjoyed a fun ride out while the parents got a workout.

"Pulk sleds" are designed for hauling supplies, and tired children.

A new activity has been started for families and children "of every age." Staff from SUNY ESF Adirondack Interpretive Center had a "Winter Animal Tracking" workshop on a recent Winter Weekend Saturday afternoon. It's about teaching everyone, especially children, how to be a track detective and spot the clues that animals have left behind. This also started from the Gatehouse complex — so no one had to hike into the Great Camp to participate. It was hands-on activities during a short walk, and then a chance for the children to try out their new tracking skills on the return hike.

Participants learn what tracks in snow are made by which Adirondack animals.

Great Camp Santanoni

The Great Camp itself is a year-round place of interest. Sarah learned about them during a previous visit.

I actually found out about the winter weekends in the fall while I was on the horse-and-wagon ride event. The guide mentioned they opened the camp and served hot chocolate during three special weekends each year (MLK, President's Weekend, and then one weekend in March). After all of the recent snow we got, President's Weekend was the ideal time for us to attempt it.

During the summer you can take a wagon ride into camp, which is the only time people can take advantage of something powered; in this case, horses. No motorized vehicles are allowed anywhere in the Preserve. So, in the warmer months people hike and mountain bike into the complex, and in the winter months they ski or snowshoe.

A horse-drawn wagon can take guests in the summer.

The Carriage Road to Santanoni has long been a popular backcountry trail enhanced by a delightful destination: the extraordinary collection of original buildings of great architectural interest. Per Tate:

The ski trip into Camp Santanoni is a popular ski without the winter weekends. The event gives it more of a community feel. We first learned about it online, and I think it's a great outreach for the organizations involved. The first year we started out with 8 people, including three kids. The three boys were five and three. This year we may have up to seven kids, including a few under two years old, who will be bundled up in sleds.

Cross-country skiing provides a level field for adults and kids to have a good time together. My eight-year-old is now strong enough to ski the whole trip and can keep up with a beginner adult skier. I think he enjoys the opportunity to be on par with them. This trip is a great family activity and it also gives me a chance to be out with other skiers and users of the Forest Preserve. Skiing is my favorite winter activity and I love being able to introduce people to it ,or help someone expand beyond skiing a groomed trail.

The art studio with a forest of skis in front of it.

Sarah returned this year because she and her companions had such a good time, here are some things she noted:

TONS of people were there. The parking lot was full by 10am when we got there, but it didn't feel crowded on the trail.

It's a pretty flat trail with gradual hills which make for a somewhat arduous ski. If you're just starting out on XC skis, it might not be the ideal trip for you to attempt alone. With the temps being warmer, you would have to be pretty familiar with wax, and what kind to use, and how to apply it so you didn't stick.

Bonus, it's dog-friendly, which is always good.

Dogs are welcome everywhere on these weekends.
Tate says:

The great camp complex provides a great introduction to the public about the Forest Preserve. As people disconnect from the electronic world and enter the forest. Santanoni and its buildings allow people to transition to a simpler time in the largest wilderness in the Adirondacks. I think it provides a part of the recreational opportunity spectrum, which allows everyone a chance to connect with nature.

The Camp was a work in progress from the late 19th and early 20th centuries, a vision of Robert C. and Anna Pruyn. They wanted a place to entertain guests and find refuge from city life, and as they became enchanted with the great outdoors around them, they continued to add to the complex, developing it into guest houses, a lakeside studio, and even a working farm to supply the camp with milk, meat, and eggs from livestock on the premises.

Today, the buildings are empty, and some of the more than forty-five separate structures have been lost to fire. However, this also supports the vision of the architects who, knowing they were building wooden structures in an inaccessible place, created multiple "rooms" which had distance between them.

Arrive to hot chocolate

Once you arrive at the art studio, there are hot beverages and fun activities.

The Artist's Studio, near the Main Lodge on the shores of Newcomb Lake, is open as a warming hut, with a woodstove.

Many of the buildings will be open only during the three Winter Weekend events, such the Gate Lodge and the Main Lodge buildings. There will be interpretive tours with Adirondack Architectural Heritage staff. Bring your own cup!

Tate appreciates these events as a chance to get together with old friends and make new ones.

Skiing is a lifelong activity and affords endless opportunities to get out and explore the forests. I look forward to my kids looking back on our family ski trips fondly. Just as I look back at my trips growing up.

Sarah was thrilled to expand her Camp Santanoni interest into other seasons:

I'd have to say my favorite part was finally finding a spot down by the boathouse that was "uninhabited" - meaning no one else had found it yet, so we actually had a place to sit and eat and relax in the sun. We just bathed in the sun for a bit in the quiet and watched people ski across the lake. Then some more people started coming down and we met a few nice folks, two of which had traveled up that morning from the city. Everyone was excited for the beautiful day. I was in a tank top by the time we got back to the car. Amazing how 50 degrees in February feels like a heat wave, but 50 degrees in October feels like a cold snap!

Here in the Adirondacks, we still have the ability to surprise you.

Finish the day with delightful dining and a great night's sleep. Find out more about the wagon ride with our blog post, Exploring a Great Camp, Santanoni Preserve.

 

 Pharoah Mountain--the name itself has enough allure to make a hiker curious.  This week the trail was as satisfying as expected.  From the beginning of the day we knew we were in for a spectacular outing.   We left the car that has lower clearance in the Crane Pond Road parking area and drove my vehicle somewhat further into the Goose Pond trailhead. Crane Pond Road is passable by higher clearance vehicles all the way into the Pond but I elected to spare my CR-V the rocks, ruts and puddles-of-unknown-depth. The hike to Crane Pond along Alder Pond is lovely anyway so we walked it.

Crane Pond is a great destination unto itself.  It was quiet and we checked out the shoreline, finding lots of fresh water mussel shells, probably left by otters. We crossed the bridge at the west end of the pond and headed into the woods. The trail rolls gently along through hemlocks and then mixed hardwoods. There was loads of sunlight dancing around and even a very gentle breeze.  This year there is hard mast everywhere I go and the Pharaoh trail was no exception--beech nuts crunched like gravel under foot in one section.

It's a short distance to Glidden Marsh where the sun on the open water lit up the forest.  We got a nice view of our destination and kept up a quick pace with the help of the temperature, which was still in the 50's. Following the two mile trail we found the going mostly easy. The grade gets steep in a few places but not for long stretches. As you rise there are still pretty fall asters and goldenrod along the trail. The ferns are browning and curling but add texture. The incredible red color of the hobblebush leaves is stunning, especially with green highlights of veins that haven't surrendered all their chlorophyll yet this season.

Most of the canopy had already started turning color so we wound our way along from one pretty scene to the next.  Both of us have a fondness for cedar waxwings and as we got closer to the top we heard them peeping all around us.  The mountain ashes were covered with orange berries and we saw all sorts of flitting small birds flush as we approached.

One of the beauties of Pharoah is that there are views in every direction. We stopped on one outcrop to look back at Schroon Lake and Goose Pond. From there we continued to the long sloping ledge that looks 270 degrees,  panning the Vanderwhacker Mountain Wild Forest, Hoffman Notch Wilderness Area, Dix Mountain Wilderness Area, Hammond Pond Wild Forest and the stunning Champlain Valley to Lake Champlain and Lake George.  On a clear sunny day this view rivals the High Peak vistas.  It's expansive and wild but not so daunting as some views from higher elevationd.

We took a few more minutes to go over to a slightly different view from the sloping rocks at the top of the trail that comes from the south.  You can see more of Pharoah Lake and lie on the warm rocks in the sun.

This is a very satisfying hike--perfect for nice views of fall color.

The softer side of running

I like to trail run. Why? It’s not like running on a hard, paved road. Generally, trails are softer terrain comprised of packed dirt or grass or other natural surface. It’s a great way to get some exercise while completely immersing myself in the gorgeous landscape that I call home; listening to the birds and witnessing the seasonal changes to the Adirondack flora.

Or, in reality, I like trail running because sometimes while avoiding roots, negotiating turns and dips and rocks, I forget that I’m actually running.

So, we all know that there are thousands of miles of marked trails in the Adirondacks - from the dramatic High Peaks to the more family-focused Champlain Area Trails along Lake Champlain. For mountain biking, there are some great go-to areas with lots of varied terrain - notably the Hardy Trail network in Wilmington. That’s no secret.

But there is one multi-use Adirondack trail network that is ideal for trail running, and I completely forgot to tell you about it.

North Hudson - the New Frontier

The North Hudson Trail Center is a network of multi-use trails, welcoming snowshoers and cross-country skiers in the winter, and hikers, mountain bikers, and horseback riders in the warm months.

I don’t have a horse, so I brought my dog with me to revisit the area, but this time for trail running.

This wasn’t the first time I’d used these trails. My husband and I rode our mountain bikes here years ago, and I remembered that the trails were rolling, and mossy.

We really enjoyed the trails for biking, and we apparently took a wrong turn THAT time too.

This time, Katie the wonder dog and I arrived at the trailhead, which is near the old entrance to what used to be the Frontier Town theme park off Interstate 87 at exit 29. There is an informational kiosk that shows a map of the series of loops on both sides of Route 9N, including a small section called the “Beginner Triangle” located 180 degrees behind those looking at the sign. The 7.7 miles of trails are marked with Red, Yellow and Blue markers and intersect frequently. I took a printed map provided in a receptacle on the kiosk, but since I had been there before, Katie and I headed off without any regard for the trail map at our disposal.

Katie was on her leash, as any responsible dog would be, and we jogged slowly along the grassy, tree-lined path. The first intersection we arrived at had a sign indicating that the red trail was to the left, but it appeared that going straight ahead was the more well-worn path. We soon arrived at a part of the former theme park, the same place I’d inadvertently arrived at years before. It was the old west main street that I’d visited as a kid - now overgrown with weeds and trees. We turned back toward the red trail intersection to try out that loop.

We ran along the mossy trails for a while, but just for a few miles total, including a jaunt into the “beginner’s triangle” with its 1.2 km of flat, wide trails. It was truly a peaceful, beautiful run. Most of the trails are beginner to intermediate level - and wide enough to ride two abreast on mountain bikes, and certainly wide enough for a horse or snowmobile. And it was a primarily SOFT and mossy, comfortable running surface.

In fact, it was so nice, I hardly noticed I was running at all.

PLAN A VISIT

The Schroon Lake Region is a mecca for outdoor recreation, with plenty of hiking trails interspersed with fishing and paddling waters. The North Hudson Trail Center is located north of the Pharaoh Mountain and Hoffman Notch Wilderness Areas and adjacent to the Hammond Pond Wilderness on Route 9N.

Be sure to check out the lodging options as a base camp to check out all of these wilderness areas while you’re here!

RESOURCES

Here is an overview MAP OF THE TRAIL AREA.

Here is a MAP OF THE TRAILS.

 

 

---

 

Dog days in the ADKs:

Puppy’s first peak

Camping with canines

Year in the life of an ADK dog

Shoka’s big day out

This is dog country

Three mountains, four paws

Happy camper, happy hound

What if I told you that there is a high-caliber, challenging, meticulously-maintained 9-hole golf oasis with stunning views of the High Peaks hiding directly in the geographic middle of the Adirondacks wilderness?

It’s not intentionally hiding, but folks who visit Newcomb, New York might not immediately associate their favorite destination for hiking, biking, and paddling with the game of golf.

As it turns out, it’s not all that hard to find. Driving through the jaw-dropping landscape leading through Newcomb from any direction, you’ll involuntarily hit the brakes when you see the High Peaks Overlook. It’s a stunning, open view of the High Peaks of the Adirondacks, complete with picnic table, gazebo, and now, one of those frames with the name of the town for your Instagramming convenience.

No one will blame you for spending some time at the Overlook, but when you can pry your eyes away from the view, pan to the right. There you’ll see a sign for the High Peaks Golf Course.

177 years in the making

Follow the sign’s arrow a short drive down Santanoni Drive to the parking lot and clubhouse.

The High Peaks Golf Course opened in 2005, and is owned and operated by the Town of Newcomb, which was established in 1828. (And no, the course construction didn’t really take 177 years).

Since about 2005 then, I have heard from local golfing friends and acquaintances that the golf course in Newcomb is a must-play course. I’m not sure why it took until this year to visit in person.

A stop in to the welcoming clubhouse and pro shop sets the stage. If you’re lucky, Linda, one of the friendliest people in the world, will greet you with a big smile, as will anyone else who happens to be sitting at what looks like an old-fashioned drug store counter. She’ll set you up with information, a key to a cart, and your tee time — which is probably right away, because, somehow, the course is still kind of a secret.

There are snacks and drinks (beer too), and rumored delicious microwavable hamburgers served up here, and a small pro shop in case you want a souvenir or need a new golf glove.

Keep your eye on the ball

And then I took a look beyond the club house and toured the course itself via golf cart. There are four tees at each hole for all ages and styles of players. The healthy fairways and greens divulge the fact that the course is fully irrigated, and the rolling terrain showcases the fact that the greens are sloped and elevated.

The layout is challenging, with a lot of hills (take a cart), sneaky sand traps, and because of its location, a number of environmentally sensitive marsh areas that you’re not allowed to enter, but your ball just might.

Speaking of your ball, it’s certainly tough to keep your eye on it for a successful swing courtesy of those darn breathtaking views!

Something to disagree on

When I returned to the club house, I decided to conduct a quick survey, and asked the course manager, two members just arriving for their day’s round, Linda, and two women sitting at the counter the same question: what is the course’s signature hole?

One person responded that it’s the really long, par 5 hole #6. Another declared that it is hole #5 because of the view from the tee. Yet another chose the short 3 par hole 3, and well, let’s just say that all 9 holes have their own fan clubs. So if it’s up for grabs, I put my vote down for hole 5, too.

Something to agree on

For the quality of the play and the outstanding setting of this golf course, you’d think that they’d only let the pros play. But it’s just the opposite. This is no high falootin’ country club. Rather, you’ll feel welcome from the moment of arrival and as comfortable wearing Carhartts as fancy golf duds.

And that welcoming attitude applies to the rest of the community, too. I urge everyone to stop in and visit Dave and Ruth at Cloudsplitter Outfitters and pick up some food and other supplies while you plan a bike, hike, or paddle adventure. And don’t miss the Adirondack Interpretive Center, with accessible trails and knowledgable staff to answer your every question about the Adirondacks’ flora and fauna. A visit to the historic Great Camp Santanoni is a must, too, and it's accessible via bike, hike or wagon ride.

There’s a wonderful town beach on Lake Harris, the popular fire tower on Goodnow Mountain, and an endless number of paddling trips available, from Lake Harris to the Essex Chain Lakes, to the Hudson River.

After all, where better to tee up for all of the best outdoor adventures than the geographic middle of the Adirondacks?

 

A bison herd is a peculiar site in the eastern United States, but in the Adirondacks anything is possible.

Take Exit 29 off of Interstate 87 and drive west, toward Newcomb, for about 4 miles. Just after the Branch River leaves your side, the evergreen-laden forest opens to reveal about 40 bison in a large pasture — that's the Adirondack Buffalo Company's herd.

Two hundred years ago, it wasn't strange to see the animals scattered across the American landscape. The massive ungulates dominated the terrain from Central New York through the Midwest, and north into Alaska.

Early European settlers brought the species, which once boasted about 60 million individuals, to the brink of extinction. Old sepia-toned photographs of house-sized piles of bison skulls grant perspective to the magnitude of the slaughter, which decreased the animal's numbers to about 300 by 1900.

Bison have since made a slow and steady comeback, and now their population is a few hundred thousand. That's not bad for an animal the International Union for Conservation of Nature called a "conservation dependent species." Their range isn't close to what it used to be, but the threat of extinction has mostly dissipated.

The historical range of bison never extended into these mountains, but the beasts — the deceptively placid and gentle-looking creatures — look right at home against the Adirondack backdrop.

An open plain is rare in these parts, and this one is bordered by two fences. The double fence serves two purposes: The tall inside fence keeps the bison from escaping, and the shorter outside fence keeps people from getting too close to the bison. The height of the inside fence isn't an accident. The 1,400-pound animals can run 40 miles an hour and jump about 6 feet high.

"People don't have a concept of how strong and fast they are," Dorreen Ossenkop said. "They think they're these big, ponderous animals. Oh, no. They'll outsprint a quarter horse."

Dorreen and her husband, Steve, opened the Adirondack Buffalo Company in 1990. Standing in the gift shop, which overlooks the bison arena, Dorreen said she's seen the animals in action. One day, a particularly determined female decided the grass looked better on the other side of the fence, so she leaped over it. Steve set about making the fence higher, and the next day Dorreen watched as the same bison slowly surveyed the perimeter.

"She walked all the way around until she found one spot where there was no extra board, and she did it again," Dorreen said.

Steve was born and raised on a dairy farm, but he was always fascinated by bison. About 25 years ago, the couple decided to go for it. They wanted something different, and that's what they got — the creatures are intelligent, curious, and surprisingly agile.

"Most animals will pivot on their front feet or back feet; buffalo will pivot on any foot," Dorreen said. "I have on two occasions seen them get startled by something, and they jump up in the air, and when they hit the ground running they're facing in the opposite direction. They're like a cat. They do it so fast you can barely see the movement."

Once bison put some distance between themselves and whatever startled them, they turn to face it. That's when they determine whether to ignore, flee, or attack. One of the times Dorreen saw this play out, the bison picked the first option and went about their business. The offending animals were Canada geese that broke into a hissing, honking fit when the inquisitive bison wandered too close.

A herd of bison is not a random assortment of animals. There's a social hierarchy that determines which individual gets the best resources available. If the dominant female likes the look of a spot another bison is lounging in, it will yield to her when she approaches. The dominant female also gets first dibs on food, and when she's finished she'll move on to the next best batch, leaving whatever's left of the first for whoever's next in the pecking order.

In nature, those lower on the ladder could go hungry. The Ossenkops can't let that happen — they have a business to run — so everyone eats.

When the animals are old enough they're sent away to be processed, and the meat is sold at the shop, along with things like jams, pies, cookies, sauces, quilts, furniture, books, and dairy products. It's a smorgasbord of mostly Adirondack-themed items and just like the bison, most of it is produced locally.

In the summer, there's even a display straight out of a farmers' market that's loaded with fresh produce.

Dorreen explained that the Adirondack Buffalo Company is more than a bison farm — it's a place where local artisans can sell their wares and where visitors can observe the curious creatures from a safe distance.

The Adirondack Buffalo Company is conveniently located on the way to other regional delights. Stop by the next time you decide to hike, paddle, or attend an event in the Schroon Lake Region.

 

A change of plans

This hike was a fusion of revisiting locations for me, but for Jim it was completely new territory. We had planned on a different hike in the area, but if bad weather were to persist I had this location as a back-up. So rather than stomp around the Hudson River Gorge Primitive Area in foul weather we ended up in the Vanderwhacker Mountain Wild Forest. It had been several years, actually more than a decade, since I'd been to Rankin Pond and on a couple of the nearby peaks. It was certainly the right time to visit an old friend.

Crusher Hill is “something old”

Crusher Hill is one of the small peaks I visited some time ago, making it “something old” for the day (and you thought I was talking about Jim). We wouldn’t actually set foot on a trail until the end of the day. With Crusher Hill directly over us, we opted for the direct route of attack. We walked about 50 feet to the right of the trail register, jumped the berm and hit the woods. We love this region for its open forest, and in its current state of leafless November it was like a walk in the park. The dull sky above us didn’t cast a shadow and the threat of rain was hanging over our heads, but we would roll with the punches as we so often have in the past.

It wasn’t long before we crested what was left of the small hill and stood atop the open rise, looking through the leafless trees at the surrounding mountains of the region. We didn’t hang around because we still felt like we were racing the weather. The dark clouds billowed above us and a cool northerly breeze hit us on the cheeks with that crisp smell of fall in the air. We could see Balfour Lake below us — we would seek that out next.

Balfour Lake is “something blue”

We dropped off of Crusher Hill on a soft bed of leaves resembling a footing of sheer ice, but even with every effort to remain in the vertical position we failed. It wasn’t long before we gained the drainage of Rankin Pond. Before us stood a two-tiered beaver marsh — flooded too deep and too wide to hop, we would have to head downstream to find a good place to access the other side. The thick lining of spruce and fir made passage a bit slower, but in a short amount of time we managed to find a few rocks to hop, which provided a dry outcome to our crossing.

We kept following the drainage as the forest opened up around us and a sharp edge to the tree growth gave us the added pleasure of adventure. We descended ever so slightly and came upon an old forest road, maybe a carriage road to an old camp. While easy to follow, toppled trees blocked it from easy passage. Mud and running water infiltrated our boots. Balfour Lake below us called our name, but we waited to reach the small finger bay before we would take to its shore. The lake is a massive body of placid water, gleaming before us, and the camps on the opposite side lined the shore. A few pictures later we returned to the old carriage road. Now following an inlet to Balfour Lake, we climbed steadily to a high saddle between Balfour Mountain and Rankin Pond Mountain.

Balfour Mountain is “something new”

New to me, and new to Jim, we were excited to see what was in store for us on Balfour Mountain. The carriage road all but disappeared in the col near a small seep, so we were now on our own. The destination of the carriage road was now apparent as we stood near an old stone foundation.

From here it would be a moderate hike through more open forest. As we penetrated the countryside I would reflect on my past outings in the area and wonder why I never made my way to Balfour Mountain. Its summit lies so close to the main highway and quite close to other peaks I had visited.

The summit of Balfour consists of two nearly identical bumps, but looking at the map it was unclear which one was higher and by how much. I guess we would just have to visit them both. The first one was clogged with entwined mountain ash, which made it tough to move through, but with pushing and pulling we stood atop this wooded island. It appeared the other small knob was just slightly less than a quarter-mile away in an “as-the-crow-flies” direction. We would be there very quickly. With minimal descent off of the other side, we could see it from the shallow saddle. This top was totally different than the last. It was spruce covered, not densely so, but still a totally different tree growth. We dropped a bit to the lake side and managed to grab a slight view toward Green Mountain and Hewitt Pond Mountain. Again, the summit was wooded, but at least we found a decent viewing platform.

We moved off and over the first summit back to the col between Balfour and Rankin Pond Mountain. The descent was a bit more to the west than our climb just a few minutes prior, and to our pleasure it was much more open. In fact, it was a wonderful stand of hardwoods.

Rankin Pond Mountain is another “something old”

We were down quite fast off Balfour Mountain and along the way we came across another old foundation-type structure. It might have even been an old stone pile from a property corner. Just beyond this was the old carriage road we followed earlier, this time in fine condition and ever-so-obvious. We would not follow it this time as it passed over the valley toward the Boreas River (destination unknown, but we sure were curious). After crossing a narrow wetland by hopping from tufts of sedge to decaying logs, we made it across no wetter than we already were.

The climb up Rankin was hardly noticeable, aside from one steep section that lasted all of a few hundred feet. I remember finding views off of this 2,265-foot summit, or at least near the summit, and I was hoping to find more of the same. Then it happened — there was some sort of bright object in the sky, almost blinding and nearly disorienting, but we were not so sure what it was and then it was gone. Come to find out later it was the sun, but it had been so long since we saw it we were confused.

Rankin Pond is another “something blue”

Our last destination of the day was Rankin Pond, where we picked up the trail back to the car, but first we would have to get off the top of this guy. We started to descend toward Little Rankin Pond, but the day was getting shorter and the darkest of the day's clouds started to spit on us a bit. To avoid a drenching, we ended up veering back toward the Rankin Pond outlet to shorten the course. The outlet in this area was actually right near where we crossed it earlier in the day, and thankfully downstream from the beaver flood zone.

We walked the outlet up to the beaver village to get a closer look. The rain had subsided again so we felt more freedom to explore. The flooded area was quite large with additional tiers of small ponds with green, moss-covered, downed logs and standing snags. It was picturesque. Soon we came to a long finger of Rankin Pond, which was still over a quarter-mile away from the end of the trail. We walked the shore as best we could but the growth was thick. Until we finally found a fisherman’s path, we had a heck of a time of it.

We took some photographs of the pond but as gloomy as it was, they weren’t all that great. Finally, and I say finally with a slight sigh of relief, we were on the trail. This path looked to be used quite often, but not maintained equally as much. Several pieces of downed branches and full trees covered parts of the trail. They had been there so long paths were developed around them. Too big for us to move, we had to use the paths as well. The trail is only 0.4 miles or so from pond to road, so as you can imagine we made quick work of it and were back at the car in no time.

I was chilled from the damp weather and the sweat on my back, and a slight shiver in my spine made me jittery for a hot cup of coffee. We would head into town and grab that as soon as humanly possible — with a couple squares of a Hershey’s chocolate bar melted in, it would be heaven.

 

Eric Bright is a Schroon Lake-based luthier with an eye for detail and a set of snorkeling gear. The wood he uses comes from the muck on the bottom of the lake; his guitars produce a timeless sound that's as soft as the ripples on the water's surface. It all takes attention, dedication, and time. Lots and lots of time.

Eric's story begins 150 years ago, when logging was big business in the Adirondacks. As timber companies competed for the forest, lakes and rivers became congested superhighways for their cargo. Massive tree trunks, stripped of their branches and foliage, were floated downriver to the mills in Glens Falls, where they were processed. Each log had several log marks pound into its end to identify the company it belonged to.

The first log drive to happen in the Adirondacks was on the Schroon River in the early 1800s. They became more commonplace as time went on, and thanks to grainy black-and-white photographs, we can take a glimpse into that chaotic scene — thousands of logs jostling for space, haphazardly arranged like wooden toothpicks scattered across the water’s surface. Most logs made the long journey to the mill, but some became submerged, sinking to the bottom of the lake where they found a new home in the soft sediment there.

Now it’s 2018, and a lot has changed. The northern end of Schroon Lake has been developed into a thriving little community filled with shops and restaurants. There’s an expansive, sandy beach that’s packed with sun-loving people all summer long, and the water is blue and shimmering. Gone are the days of logging camps and log jams, but deep below the lake’s surface the remnants of a bygone era remain — until Eric finds them.

The walls of Eric’s showroom, BassRock Guitars, are lined with about 10 guitars at any given time. Ask him and he’ll tell you their names — there’s Gloria, Rose, and Lila Grace. Each is as beautiful as its neighbor, all are carefully designed and handcrafted by Eric, in his workshop across the lake. Before they get there, though, the wood used to make them has to be pulled from the depths of Schroon Lake.

Going deep

The logs Eric uses are called sinkers, and he generally pulls them from water that’s about 10 feet deep. Once he’s found one that’s the right size, just over 13 feet and at least 14 inches in diameter, he holds his breath and dives to it with a heavy rope. Working quickly, he works his arms into the sediment and loops the rope around the trunk. That creates a cloud of debris, so if he goes up for air before the rope is in place he has to wait for the cloud to settle before heading back down.

Once the rope is secure, Eric returns to the boat and, with the help of his daughter, pulls the line taut. Then they wait.

“There’s a lot of suction down there, so Kate drives the boat until the rope is taut and we wait a few minutes," Eric said. "When the butt end of that log pops up, we tow it back to shore."

The waterlogged logs are left to air dry, then Eric’s friend cuts them down to size. Sometimes the wood is maple, other times it’s red spruce, a species that was made the gold standard for guitars by Martin Guitars.

Eric says the variety is good because hardwoods like maple make the best guitar bodies, and softwoods like spruce make the best guitar faces. The different types of wood add to the aesthetics of the finished instrument, but the hardwood-softwood combo gives the guitar its voice.

“A good guitar is a machine; there are lows, mids, and highs,” Eric said. "The sides and back have to be a hardwood because there's 180 pounds of pressure on the bridge, but the top is the most important part of the sound."

Eric taps around the softwood face of a guitar and listens for the clear notes it emits. To hear him describe it, a guitar is like a living thing. Each individual instrument has its own nuanced tones, which eventually adapt to its owner’s playing style. The vibration of the strings interacts with the grain of the wood, and the instrument evolves and grows as it’s strummed.

“Some people say if you play a certain style the guitar will learn to resonate that way," Eric said. "It sounds a little extreme but it makes a little sense, too. You are teaching the guitar how you play." 

A workshop with a view

It’s a short walk to the shore of Schroon Lake from the BassRock Guitars showroom. From the long wooden dock it’s a 5-minute trip by motorboat to Eric’s workshop, a roomy basement space overlooking the water that’s packed full of tools and wood. There are forms for guitar faces and bodies, labeled stacks of wood, and collections of wood burls. The burls are natural, knobby formations that grow on trees. Often used to make tables and bowls, Eric likes how their irregular features add a distinct touch to his guitars. He often uses them for the bridge, the part of the guitar that holds the strings to the face.

He looks for irregular grain patterns, too, and sees them as an opportunity to give the instrument it’s own personality. Sometimes he fills small holes with pieces of burl, other times he brings in mother of pearl. It all depends how the wood speaks to him.

"A new guitar, you might have grain from the spruce going in one direction and grain from the hex bracing going the other way, so they could be fighting each other," Eric said. "But what happens over time, as the guitar opens up, is all of the grain learns to resonate together. After awhile it resonates as one piece of wood."

 

If you hit the town after a day of hiking or paddling in the Schroon Lake Region, you might see Eric playing with his band, The Log Jammers. To see his guitars, make an appointment with BassRock Guitars.